http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=13549 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:20 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:20 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Bill; Wear in the park-switch contact disc and contacts will result in a change in the park position...I just can't see how it can change in the swept angle...I would still suggest a slop somewhere in the linkage...maybe in the gearbox and certainly possibly in the cable-on-cam...I suggest another look... See also: http://www.sw-em.com/Windshield%20Wiper%20Systems.htm Good Hunting http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385700&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 01:12 GMT ...which as I stated in my other response is, even less noble than BOTH base metals in the galvanic series! An Ueberbad idea is making repairs with aluminum...that turns to white powder! "the car will act as a giant sacrificial anode"...given a repair panel is smaller than the rest of vehicle, the Cathode/Anode Ratio is at least in our favor. See: http://www.ceoe.udel.edu/seagrant/publications/corrosion.html Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384738&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 19:01 GMT Guys; That was a resto project from a while ago on the Snow Weasel...you can read about it here: http://www.sw-em.com/DeLorean.htm I was quite pleased with the result, and the repaired sections STILL look like the kitchen sink and the day Peter Z. welded them in using Stargon gas and Stainless wire feed...yes SS is more difficult to deal with, but it surely won't go the way of the absolute junk steel (China's best!) with which Royal Welding did the first repair work... ...my thought was to make a run of 2"x2" and 2"x3" hat section frame repair pieces and make them available to others but there was only limited interest that made itself known, so I have never proceeded with the project past doing it for myself...for the time being, call the project on long-term hold... Even with all the research I've done on galvanic corrosion, and the fact that the small difference (minor but none the less inescapably different) on the Galvanic chart now concerns me more, and to the point that I would only add SS repair work if I was also adding a sacrificial zinc anode, I would still give welding SS to mild steel a thumbs up, but add the zinc just to assure the mild steel of the rest of the car doesn't go away in preference to the SS in the long run (rust, and chemistry, NEVER sleep!)...adding zinc anodes is a well known corrosion control technique* used on steel in the marine environment...ask any ocean going boaters...it's based on solid science and chemistry and works! I have done a lot of research on the subject and collected a lot of info, but that is a SwEm Tech Article for another day. * notice I didn't say preventer, because there is virtually no such thing...but adding a sacrificial anode puts YOU more in control of the demon rust and puts the corrosion where YOU want it: On a replaceable block, not for instance on the back, inaccessible side of a frame member... Delorean Still had it right! (Hey, I just wonder if he had an anode designed into the car somewhere!) Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384576&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:54 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382475&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 10:33 GMT Charlie; If you just give up and accept that those bowls will leak, you can make a good argument for routing it to a "safer place"...certainly makes sense to me...I've thought of this also, but never actually implemented it...but it is a band aid and not really a fix...I do prefer fixing it for good, but some guys seem to have a perpetual leakage problem...I do remember those bowl covers too from the 140s, where they no longer vented to atmosphere, but vent was routed to the gas evaporative canister...you could even route it back to the fuel tank...then you'd have a recirculating system just like with the dump regulator on the fueleys! Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381806&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 13:22 GMT Guys; I like the Grose Jet valves because it seems to me that the ball of the Grose Jet, which is capable of rolling against its seat if it needs to, is more friendly to shedding any contamination particles which come along (within reason of course) than a cone against a seat. Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381804&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 13:12 GMT Rick; My first guess with sloooow speed/hot (heavily loaded) motor would have been to suspect (almost) seized bushings, but gummed up brushes can certainly explain that too...I doubt that grease was original...it was more likely probably from some well meaning PO, but which hot runny and headed for the hills (and apparently brushes) when it got hot (and the wiper motors do get quite toasty in prolonged normal service)...in any case, I'm happy to hear of your success in refurbing the motor, and I compliment you on your detailed report of the repair work... Cheers PS Thanks for the reference! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380650&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 01:20 GMT Tom; WD-40 will help lube immediately for picking attempts (but the key is a 5 or six pin, doublesided WASO blank and if any nonlocksmith owner can successfully pick it, they're a better man than I, Gungha Din!)...but WD-40 wont do anything to prevent sparks (and sucks IMHO as a longterm lube)...and if tank is truly full of stale fuel, then it has less octane than extra virgin olive oil...it'll burn sure, but need a lot more than you fumbling around with and at the fuelcap to ignite it!!! My advice: Feed fuelpump by way rubber line running to a reserve can of fresh fuel in passenger footwell (or in front of radiator if your worried about it in passenger compartment, see below), drive vehicle to an experience locksmith and ask them to make a "key by impression"...and have them make a copy once good function is verified...lube lock with Tri-Flow! Drain tank of stale fuel by loosening brass plug. ...and PLEASE stop with the gasoline exploding when you look at it crosseyed bit...Gasoline is great stuff, and an unsurpassed way of relatively safety storing and carrying around a huge amount of BTUs, BUT, it ONLY explodes if combined with air in a relatively precise ratio, then compressed and ignited...otherwise it just burns...sure, care is called for when working around it but just as much care as when using paint thinner to clean your brushes or filling your lawnmower, or spraying carb cleaner while servicing you SUs (No Smoking, please, around atomized hydrocarbons!), but nobody make a big deal of that... Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376043&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 22:02 GMT Jan; Those are just the back side of the holes which are used to secure the forward throttle shaft locator plate (also visible in the pic). Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375596&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:54 GMT Jan; The PCV system is often the source of confusion...maybe this will help: http://www.sw-em.com/pcv_diagrams.htm Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375595&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:52 GMT Rick; I agree with Cameron...check your rear susp bushings...limiting straps cannot cause that...they only limit axle travel on rebound...so if you avoid the killer potholes and never go airborne, you would never know they're missing... Good Hunting! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374304&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:07 GMT Bob; Once you break the key, it make things a bit more difficult, but you have options...easiest is to remove broken bit of key with a tweezers and to have a ne one made up from it...but to install a Start Pushbutton so that it doesn't EVER brake again. See: http://www.sw-em.com/swemkits.htm#Start%20Switch and http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignition%20from%20Scratch.htm#Vintage%20Volvo%20Ignition%20system%20and%20the%20Armored%20Cable ...I'm surprised you didn't find much searching...this comes up often around here... Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373080&rss=1 Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:42 GMT Matt; Installing that mono radio may be period correct, but it doesn't give you any of the modern sound and source options, and that's a shame...I suggest you install it though, then also add a modern unit (discretely mounted) and have the mono unit as one of the audio inputs. As far as generator charging system being able to 4X25W load...Bill's math adds a HUGE amount of margin by doubling the total wattage (which is typically already inflated) to 200 before calculating the current, so his calculation works out to VERY high load current...I expect the typical real life load current at normal listening levels to be quite a lot less (around 2 A) and this IS a managable load for the generator system (add a capacitor for bass current peaks)...an important thing that one needs to be aware of is that power amps with soft (electronic) power switching (not a hard mechanical switch) have been known to be major electrical hogs, drawing significant current on stand-by (before they are even ON!!!)...to the point of discharging the battery overnight...I suggest you measure this and possibly add a hard switch or automatic IGNition powered relay to prevent the problems cause by it. For speaker placement, the panels and huge volume behind in the back of a 220 lend themselves well for woofers, squaker(midranges) and tweeters could be placed up front for good stereo imaging. Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372005&rss=1 Sun, 13 Sep 2009 13:01 GMT Rj; Here is an pre-release from an in-the-works-article which should help: Circuit Function: The suggested circuit shown in Figure 5. uses a Relay (three terminal type is shown) controlled by a Temperature Sensing Switch (TSS). (Fused) Battery Power should be used to supply relay (...and can be taken from the Fuse3 loads side, on a 122 for instance), this allows cooling of the Rad to continue even after shutting OFF engine. The TSS automates the shut-off to prevent a drained Bat. IGNition Power should be used when including the Manual Switch Option (...and this can be taken from the Fuse2 loads side on a 122 for instance), this gives driver additional manual control, but only when IGNition is ON and charging system can supply power (this also prevents an inadvertent drained Bat which could occur if the switch was powered by Bat and was left ON after parking and shutting OFF engine). * Blocking diodes must be installed when including the Manual Switch Option (only). 1N5401, 3Amp type diodes should be fine to use by my estimate. Indicator is also optional...but it&#226;&#128;&#153;s always nice to be informed! It shouldn&#226;&#128;&#153;t be necessary to have to increase the fuse current ratings in both example cases given. <img src="http://www.sw-em.com/Electric_Cooling_Fan_Ckt.jpg"> Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371251&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 00:51 GMT Brad; The footswitch is a simple device...one wire (Yellow) IN from light switch, two wires OUT (Red for Hi-Beam, Gray for Lo-Beams) use a testlight to verify its function. Both Red and Gray go through 6Pin connector in engine compartment out to headlight buckets. Refer to wiring diagram: http://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg I recommend locating and remedying the error first, then thinking about changing over to the bistable relay control. Benski; The CONTROL of the bistable relay can be performed at the directional signal stalk, but the actual switching takes place at the relay...and that seems to be where the problem is...so adding a bistable relay conversion into the mix now would only add new variables and sources of complexity and uncertainty...I recommend against this. Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370988&rss=1 Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:28 GMT I realized "retired" meant not working, but that didn't tell me due to what...broken cable, broken cablestop, stuck latch...I could have given more specific suggestions given more specific failure info... Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370087&rss=1 Fri, 4 Sep 2009 03:17 GMT ben; I don't know what you mean under "retired", but typical problems come from lack of lubrication of the cable and/or release mech itself, and as you pull harder and harder to overcome the sluggishness, you can eventually break the cablestop off at the latch end. To open hood, look at the bottom of hoodlatch through the opening which you have made by removing one grill, and manually actuate the lever which would normally be pulled by the release cable. That will get the hood open anyway... After repairs, I suggest you lube everything involved WELL. I recommend graphite grease for the cable and normal grease for the latchworks. Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370041&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 22:26 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369592&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 02:56 GMT Greezy; If engine was running well with no major oil consumption before car was parked, stuck rings are likely the cause of comsumption now...I'd reapply MMO and let it sit for a week, then retry. Regarding PVC...the P stands for Positive...this means you must have a source of fresh filtered air into the crankcase, and extraction by the manifold vacuum through a flow limiter. Just short circuiting the system allows pressure builup in crankcase and this will also serve to blow oil out all available openings. See: http://www.sw-em.com/pcv_diagrams.htm Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369591&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 02:53 GMT Tim; The amount they drop is a function of the cable adjustment...and my "about a 1/4inch" is your .365", when armed with a digital caliper! The important thing is you have choke on both carbs, because when its cold, you'll need it to start! ...but, that difference of 0.115" bothers me a lot less than the difference in operation and what you see when lifting the dashpots and peering down their throats...what you are seeing suggests front fuel level / fuel bowl float adjustment is high OR back fuel level / fuel bowl float adjustment is low on back carb...you might want to check and compare those and get them more equal... Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369544&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 00:19 GMT ...I guess that didn't work so well...let try that again: Givens: < =left carrot > =right carrot left carrotimg src="PIC URL"right carrot (Replace the text with its equal) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369395&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 10:21 GMT The technique I use is this: <img src="XXX"> (replace XXX with &#091full&#093 location URL of pic you want to embed...this allows you to embed a pic into your posting from anywhere...to get the URL, right click while mousing over pic, then copy entire URL from Proprties, and paste into your post, replacing XXX) Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369394&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 10:08 GMT Pat; ...no major secrets to the removal/replacement procedure, but please let us know of your experience with WP. Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369358&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 02:32 GMT Keith; ...the distributor shaft key not being seated in the driveslot of the oil-pump was the first thing I though of also...I'd just turn over engine with a wrench on the crank pulley bolt, while applying slight downward pressure on that shaft...eventually, it will drop right in for you (and a test fitting of the distrib will verify this quickly)...don't forget, if distributor drive-slot doesn't line up with the typical angle as shown... <img src="http://www.sw-em.com/B18_dist_drive_gear.jpg"> ...then you will need to turn and lift the dist drive shaft until it disengages from the cam, move it in the desired direction until you do get it...and you will need to assure that it engages the oil pump drive slot using the procedure again until you get the desired alignment...once you have engagement AND alignment, install distrib, and you're good to move on... Cheers! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369356&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 02:28 GMT Jeff; ...the question is: How do YOU define "original"...your vehicle as having come from the factory OR factory available for your vehicle's model year? If you insist on the former, you are probably limiting yourself to the "Alternate" option shown here: http://sw-em.com/headrest_upgrading_notes.htm ...if the later, you have other options... Regarding childseat safety...I centrally located a (2point) seatbelt (from a 140) under the back seat and used it to secure a boosterseat back there...that worked very well (required holes in the floor obviously) but I only had to accomodate a single young occupant...until they are of a size where the normal seatbelts work with their bodies correctly, kids belong in the back for maximum safety anyway (strapped in, which requires mods)...if the boosterseat in the front brings the oe belt across the chest then you should be OK, otherwise you might consider installing two setups in the backseat... Cheers http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368826&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 12:04 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/