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<title>Volvo: planetman&#x26;apos;s Brickboard Posts</title>
<link>http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=1313</link>
<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg</copyright>
<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:08 GMT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:08 GMT</lastBuildDate>
<managingEditor>brickadmin@denizen.net</managingEditor>
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<category>volvo</category>
<ttl>1440</ttl>

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<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [140-160] Fuel pump needed -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

I have in the past installed and modified a 3 hose barb Bosch pump for another car, or updated to a 2 hose barb Bosch pump, or updated to an aftermarket 2 hose barb fuel pump.

The FIC website suggested price to rebuild your fuel pump is $800.00.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386301&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:44 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] ...when using the adapter  ring... -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

You can not use the Girling master cylinders because the mounting hole spacing is different.

The ATE brake master is available rebuilt, if you have a core, new from a non OEM manufacturer, which does not come with reservoir, or NOS with a reservoir.

IIRC, the brake reservoir from the original 1968 brake master will fit the ATE master cylinder even though the reservoir grommets are different.

New brake fluid reservoirs are available new as well.

The adapter kits are also available new.




--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386290&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:40 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [1800] brake fittings on a rebuilt caliper -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

I, personally and professionally, would not use the calipers if you had to modify them to fit.

I take this stance for 3 reasons, the first being safety  the second being in my case since I in the business of repairing cars, liability.

The third reason is the calipers you need are quite easy to find.

If you were in the middle of nowhere with an urgent need to get somewhere, then maybe one might risk it.

If you must use the modified calipers, you might be able to find adapters or you can get the correct style of brake line flare nuts and reflare the brakes lines with bubble flares.

Good luck,
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386284&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:01 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] identical, maybe, except mounting holes are horizontal (NT) -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

After checking on that brake master, A1 Cardone # 111651, I determined that is NOT compatible with the  available adapter.

That brake master is a Girling and is for early 140 and LHD 1969-1970 122 and the adapter was designed for an ATE brake master that came on 1800E/ES, RHD 1969-1970 122, 164 and late 140 Volvos.

I have not used the CVI brake master yet as every time I would need to use 1, I was stymied by the lack of new reservoir seals.

So I&#x27;ve had to convert to the ATE brake master with the adapter kit each time.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386260&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:09 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [444-544] [1962] B16 Distributor drive gear?  -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

To begin with, are you sure you have the correct rotor?

If it is a Bosch distributor, it should have the Bosch long part number cast into the under side of the rotor.

IIRC, the part number should end with 088

If you have the correct rotor, your advance mechanism maybe bad inside the distributor.

You can try to find a reputable distributor rebuilder that has the tools and parts to repair and calibrate your distributor.

Another option is to install a very expensive, but so far reliable brand new electronic distributor made in The Netherlands called 123Ignition.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386164&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 03:44 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [1800] brake fittings on a rebuilt caliper -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

You probably got early 240 rear calipers or 1 from a Mercedes.

I once got a set of reman rear calipers for a 1972 140 that had the wrong size caliper bolt holes.

And we later determined that were for a Mercedes. 
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385924&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:41 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] [1967] Quick tranny mount question -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

I believe that the threads are indeed metric on the updated transmission mounts.

On the Bilstein made mounts I think the threads are 10mm x 1.

Take the mount into a good hardware store.

Good luck,

BTW, if you have trouble finding the nuts, I have them in stock.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385922&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:32 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Question on dual line M/C for a very late 122s -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

There is an conversion adapter that will allow you to use that brake master cylinder.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385824&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:08 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Tail light  socket insulation question -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Bulb number 1157NA (natural amber) is a 2 filament yellow bulb and most 240 and 740 Volvos use them as front running light bulbs.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:16 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Tail light  socket insulation question -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Neither bulb socket repair kit will work on your PV front turn signal socket.

Besides, you can only get a dual filament bulb to fit into the stock PV front turn signal socket as the mounting pins on the side of the 2 type of bulbs are in different spots on the bulb and are not interchangeable.

Why not just wire up only the flasher side of each front indicator?
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385656&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:19 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Tail light  socket insulation question -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

There are 2 kits, 1 for a single wire contact and a kit for 2 wire contacts.

The 1 wire kit comes with all new parts and includes the disc, an unterminated wire with the bulb contact crimped to the other end, and a spring.

The 2 wire kit comes with 2 new unterminated wires with bulb contacts crimped to the ends and a new spring.

If you need a 2 wire disc, I can provide good used one.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385454&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:24 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Tail light  socket insulation question -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

If you are referring to the insulator disc that holds the wire(s)from touching the insides of the socket, then yes you need to have them.

I have repair kits in stock for both the single wire and double wire sockets.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 21:44 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Coolant in the cabin -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

I strongly recommend that you have any early Volvo heater core rodded by a radiator shop if you have it out of the heater box.

The biggest reason is there is a piece of rubber inside the tank with the hose barbs. 

The purpose of the rubber is to act as a divider and to force the water to flow through the core and to the other tank and then back through the other side of the core and to the outlet.

The rubber can deteriorate and if it fails, you will not get heat as the water will not circulate through the core properly.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385419&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 21:07 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] [1967] Engine and tranny mounts -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

The transmission mounts that have the mounting bracket attached are for the M400/M410 exclusively.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384941&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sun,  8 Nov 2009 18:45 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] Are the top cover between a M410 and the M41 the same?  -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Yes, the 1975 cover will bolt onto the M410.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384933&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sun,  8 Nov 2009 17:56 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] [1967] Engine and tranny mounts -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Do not be surprised if you have to shorten 1 of the 2 studs for the transmission mount.

Most of the transmission mounts have studs that are too long and this will interfere with the back of the transmission when you go to bolt it back onto the transmission.

When installing transmission mounts on M41s in 122s, I also usually have to install 3 to 4 thick fender washers between the transmission mount and the transmission cross member to space the transmission up high enough so it will not hit the cross member on large bumps.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384400&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Fri,  6 Nov 2009 02:15 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [140-160] M41 oil type? -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Do you have a D or J style overdrive?

Assuming you have a left hand drive car, a D style overdrive has the solenoid mounted on the passanger side of the overdrive and is attached with 2 small screws.

A J style overdrive has the solenoid mounted on the drivers side and it is screwed into the overdrive.

Both styles have an oring around the speedometer drive housing.

The D style uses an external seal that goes on before the speedometer cable to seal shaft of the speedometer gear.

While the J style has a seal inside of the speedometer drive housing.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383767&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Tue,  3 Nov 2009 03:32 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [444-544] Pulling the ign. cylinder -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

I use a tool referred to as a cotter pin puller.

It has a screwdriver type handle with a 6&#x22; long shaft with a 90&#x26;#194;&#x26;#176; bend at the tip.

Also helpful is a small LED light.

I have a small one with a magnetic base or I use a pen style light with a long flexible tip. 
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383746&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Tue,  3 Nov 2009 02:27 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] A/C Help -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

I am using a Sanden knock off sold to me by my A/C guru.

He used to sell me Sanden compressors, but he says his made in China compressor is a better unit.

I can not find a brand name and he is out of town until the end of the week.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383677&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Mon,  2 Nov 2009 20:07 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] 122 wheel cylinders -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Sometimes the wheel cylinder can be identified by the numbers cast or stamped into it by a good Auto parts store or brake specialty shop.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383303&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 23:52 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] 122 wheel cylinders -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Great picture of the back of the backing plate which shows me that someone has modified your backing plates to accept those wheel cylinders.



--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 23:38 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] 122 wheel cylinders -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Those do not appear to be the correct wheel cylinders for a 1965 Volvo.

Can you post pictures of the backing plate and brake shoes?

Someone may have used brakes from a completely different car.

I am suggesting this because in your picture, the hole for the brake line appears to be angled down.  

A wheel cylinder for your Volvo will have the hole for the brake line coming straight out of the wheel cylinder, parallel to the bleeder. 
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383293&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:48 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] axle/drum key direction -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Yes, taper down and in first.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:33 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [120-130] A/C Help -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

Do yourself (and any other mechanic who might work on it) a favor and route the A/C hoses to the passanger side instead of the drivers side.

I also like to use bulkhead fitting for the firewall pass through instead of cutting large holes for the hoses.  The fittings cost a lot more, but by using these fitting, you will avoid using large ugly rubber grommets to seal the firewall.

I am currently installing an A/C system in an 1800S this way.
--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:27 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1985] A/C  Hose Needed -posted by- planetman</title>
<description>Hello,

If Napa can not help you, I probably have one or can get one.


--
Eric&#x3C;br&#x3E;Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)&#x3C;br&#x3E;Torrance, CA  90502</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 03:00 GMT</pubDate>
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