http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=122 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:49 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:49 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Phil: Thanks for correcting my quick mistype as I frequently do. I should recheck what I type before posting. At least you looked it up to verify the correct spelling and use. The wagon is a 245A after the "stick" removal to a "slush" box as Jorell's wife noted. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382725&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 13:19 GMT Jorell: What we have here is a 245A! That is not A for Automatic, but A for: ANDRODYNOUS // That is correct, a custom 245A. Have your wife try that one out for "size"! Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382587&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 19:14 GMT Since the car has been siting and may have been in humid area condensation can rot out the CPS sensor head and cause a faulty reading sent to the ECU thus causing a rich condition. The CPS is an item that is key to the feedback loop of the Bosch FI system. The replacement CPS is only about $30 and while it can be a PITA to replace, if the sesor head is rusted the resplacement will cure the problem. Worth the money to have a good CPS with a strong signal. Good Luck Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378991&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:49 GMT Hi: There are several brands of T stats out there but the OEM mfgr is Wahler of Germany and you can buy the Wahler brand T-stat in 3 different deg C/F ratings depending where you live (winter/summer mid) These T Stats are the best and I would not buy anything but Wahler. Flush the system with Prestone rad cleaner run hot and flush with water run hot and then refill with 50/50 mix, Make sure you run the heater full on when flushing and cleaning our is clean water. good luck al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376562&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:24 GMT Tony: Thanks for the reply. As you know I have the '93 244 manual M47 and will need a clutch change in the near future. The last clutch I did was in 1975 on my 1970 142S. I guess you would say I am out of practice and will need some help by the BB when I decide to tackle it, As I recall, when I dropped the trani at that time it was not that heavy and was managable. Any further hints that you can give would help. Did you take any digital pics to place on your site? I have a Sachs clutch set in stock ready to go. Once you get the bell housing and trani out how hard was it to change out the rear engine seal. I seem to recall that you had to manipuate the engine angle or something like that. How is the cluth working now and do you think it has more grab facilites greater power transfer than the one you replaced. Thanks Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375661&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:04 GMT Try www.lampsandlenses.com or call at 973.674.2254 I have used 245 wagon tail tail lights and head lights for years without any problems. The ad is in Rolling magazine (VCOA). Frank backs up all his products and I am sure will address any issues that may come up. None for me after 6 years on one wagon and 1 year on the second wagon. Give them a try. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374333&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:48 GMT Tony: Glad to hear that you have things somewhat under control. Regarding BB members and the classified or "free" so far my experience has been 8 out of 10 were "smoke" or a rip off. Only a few things have been OK. Ebay is much more reliable. Perhaps since most of those who post on the BB know what is what and for those of us that know we want to keep the good stuff ourselves for future use. The guys that offer "free" or as you put it free with "negotiations" or for sale are normally getting rid of crap! I had the same problem many years ago with a 142S 4 speed the top plate (shift pattern restrictor) broke. I replaced the clutch at the same time as well. Are you replacing the clutch cable and pilot bearing? Are you getting the flywheel machined? How tuff was it to get the M47 out by yourself? Did you use a trani jack or cradle on a floor jack. Oh and yeah that one bolt that goes through the bell housing to the starter is the worst bolt I have ever tackled. I used a 1/2 inch steel bar to rap the bolt head on the firewall side after a multiple PB Blaster soak to mechanically dislodge any chemical bond at the threads. Even with that it was a bear but finally worked, I would use anti-sieze on the starter bolts on reassembly to prevent the corrosion from ruing your day in the future. How many miles were on the existing clutch and how much was left on it? Did you use a Sachs set up? Thanks & good luck. Hope you are taking digital pics to post as some of us would like to see this on your site. Regards, Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373740&rss=1 Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:17 GMT Hi Tony: I have been following your issue and wonder if you went to MD to pick up the free M47 to practice on before your tear down? Did you remove the entire trans from the bell housing and take it out to work on it or where you able to access from above? Maybe it is just easier to to to your local Volvo dealer and get the small part as it should not cost that much more and it you are a VCOA member you can get a 20% discount. Let us know how it goes. Thanks for your many helpful tech tips and suggestions! I have a '93 244 M47 Regards, Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373679&rss=1 Sat, 19 Sep 2009 16:53 GMT Hi Yama: I wanted to view your pics of the 3" ss exhaust but I am not a member of Turbobricks so why not post the pics on the BB so many of us here can view them. Thanks Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373652&rss=1 Sat, 19 Sep 2009 14:15 GMT weather: are you saying that the stamped metal cut out was eliminated (no cover plate) or that the plastic vent filler was missing? If the former then I understand that all 24x '90 on eliminated the punch out in the stamping for the vent. Correct? Thanks Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373368&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 14:54 GMT Great post w/pics. Does anyone know what year the vent was eliminated? Was that galvanized plate in place of the vent used only in the first year of non vent production and then just eliminated in the stamping in following years or is the filler plate in all 24x up to '93? Thanks I too miss the vent that I had in an '85 245! I would rather use that vent than AC on a warm day or eve. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373366&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 14:49 GMT Art is correct as I had the same issue on my '91 245 and had to replace the fitting and line to the fuel rail with Part #3547865. That banjo bolt from the long line had developed a pin hole leak and was sqirting gas at a rapid rate. I only noted it on a 200 mile round trip when the mileage was terrible and then I smelled gas. Upon checking I noted the pin hole and was shocked that I had to replace the entire line. Why Volve did not engineer a coupling near the fuel fillter banjo bolt to connect to the line is strange as this seems to be a frequent issue particularly in areas where salt is used in winter. Good luck with the fix as it is not too bad a job just a strain on your back from the ground. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369694&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 17:17 GMT Art: Yes my question was "why should the bolts be tightened with the weight of the car on the axle?" I did use rubber not poly and pushed out the old ones including sleeves with a TAB tool. It was my understanding as I oriented the new TAB's with the down arrow pointing down that the trailing arms pivot on the bolts that go through the TAB bushings. It seems that the TAB's rubber which surrounds the center steel bushing that the bolts pass through and are affixed to the trailing arms only cushion aka flex with rotational movement of the trailing arms as the rear end travels up and down and is damped by the rear springs and rear shocks. So I guess what I am saying is that the TAB's are not the main wt. load carry point only a part of the torsional damping system. Since the TAB bolts which are attached to the trailing arms and pass throuh the TABS with somewhat snug fit it seems that this would not be an issue. However, since I am not sure I will get under the car and check the TABs to try to determine if there has been any misalignment or distortion in the rubber. I have only put on maybe 500 miles since the change out. Thanks as always for your expertise. Best regards, Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369688&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 16:41 GMT Hi Art: Why is it not good practice to only tighten the bolts when the wt. of hte car is on the axle? I did a set on my '91 245 with use of a friends lift and tightened the bolts to the TABs when up on the lift but I had a stand jack under the differential lifting it up supporting it. Was that OK or did the wt. of the car need to be full on? Thanks Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369676&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 15:23 GMT J: per Art Benstein the 24x expert on this board: "you might benefit from the test sequences for the sensors and solenoids in diagnostic modes 2 and 3, described in 7/9 FAQ or, better, in Bentley p241-7 and p280-4. Perhaps you'll be able to rule out the CPS before attempting the replacement." give it a try. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368855&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 15:53 GMT J: This is the test: See Bently for details: Diagnostic Test Mode 2 System Sensor Signal Test http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368853&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 15:46 GMT Jonny: I do not think it is your timing. I think it might be the CPS (corrosion at the sensor head). There is a way to check the CPS feedback signal. It is in the alternative set of codes noted in the Bently manual. These settings are not in the list of output codes but look carefully at the Bently for the check of the CPS. I am not at a place now where I have the Bently to look at, but it is there. These tests are a pre ODB testing set but work. For all it is worth I woould order the CPS and put it in and then even if it is not the cuprit you will know that the CPS is good to go for at least 10 years. It is amazing how much increase in performance and fuel economy a new CPS will result in. IF the CPS signal is weak the car will run even without the check engine lignt, with lower power and poor fuel economy as the CPU will compensate with a rich setting. Good luck, Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368851&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 15:40 GMT Does the car sit outside and is it in a high humidity area? If so and if the CPS (crank position sensor) is the original it may be that the sensor end which sits in the bell housing is rusted and not providing a strong signal to the CPU. The CPS in only about a $30 item and if old and deteriorated can cause low power and poor fuel use. The replacement can be a PITA but can be accopmplished with care. Sear the FAQ's for common threads on CPS replacement. That may be your fix Good Luck Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368786&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 02:08 GMT John: Thanks for the clarification. It seems that we all should pay more attention to all the electrical connections that are exposed to corrosion. Grounds, fuses. solinoid terminala, lighting connections, etc. Perhaps we ahould use "Penetrox" on all these connections to prevent corrosion. I think Art's suggestion of the brass/ceramic fuses is a good idea as well. BTW if the fuse is rated at 8A with higher "16A" on a momentary basis what is the current rating of the cable that is in the fuse #7 circuit? Thanks again Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368467&rss=1 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:17 GMT John: Just wondering why the fuse melted. Could it be that the draw from the brake switch and 3 brake lights with othter components on that circuit is neat the limit of fuse #7 and by adding your mod of tire pressure monitor system you are nearly exceeding the fuse limit? Not sure just wanted to know why the situatioin occured. Thanks Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368395&rss=1 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 01:56 GMT That is a strange metal failure point. Since the bottom of the pedal unit is spring loaded the only thing that may have occurred is perhaps: 1/ recurring offset pushing on the pedal (perhaps with heavy shoes/boots) using the heel. 2/ frequent sudden slippage when on the pedal hard and the pedal comming off to the spring loaded zero gas position, This could cause a slight crack and then with repeat sudden shocks broke the metal. Thanks for the picture. It is good to know that the pedal assembly is bolted on that way. That is the first time I have heard of this happening. Good luck Looks like the replacement is ean easy fix, Glad you got back home safely. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367995&rss=1 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 01:11 GMT Colin: It happened to me in a '91 245. The pedal is held on with in pin that is fastened throuth the hinge which fits into the end of the throtle cable. I was able to use a paper clip to make a temp fix and then used a cotter pin to fix it. Appears that the constant rotation of the movement of the pedal if dirty can cause metal failure and break the fastener. Not hard to fix just that it is in an difficult location. Move the seat back and lie on your back facing the fire wall. Good luck Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367744&rss=1 Sun, 23 Aug 2009 22:32 GMT Hi JT: I have had excellent results with LampsAndLenses.com I have used his 245 rear L/R and Front L/R turn siganl units as well as head lights with no problems for 6 years or more. While the fitment may not be 100% perfect the value is there. I would suggest that once the rear L/R lenses on the 245 are fitted that you use silicone (clear) around the edges of the lens against the wagon body and at the joints of the lenses to ensure a total water tight seal. If done carefully you can hardly see the silicone and it does seal the lamp completely. The plastic has not fadeed (red yellow or white) and hook up without any issues. Good luck Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366813&rss=1 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:46 GMT George: No "old wives tale" I had a 1970 142S with a B20B engine. While I was on Cape Cod the muffler fell off and I dove it at night for 300 miles only to learn that the #1 exhaust valve had burned out. I remvoved the head and had a shop reseat and put in new valve guides/valves. Sorry I was in a stroller in 1953! Thanks to Phiiips Petroleum for the donation of Philmont Scout Ranch in NM. I had the pleasure of treking 100mi+ and it is fantastic. I visited Philmont 30 25 years later and it was and I think still the same. Al http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364760&rss=1 Sun, 9 Aug 2009 00:26 GMT USMA: Sounds like that car may have been run without any back flow pressure ie: no muffler which may have burned out the ex. valve. If so the head and cyl with the problem can be refitted with new valves and guides at any machine shop. You should be good to go Good luck http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364469&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 14:46 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/