http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=11919 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:34 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:34 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hi Klaus! It is a 1998 S70 T5. I'm going to play with the Memory switches tomorrow. 4 motors, what is the function of each motor.? I was thinking it might be like this 1 motor up/down 2 motor in out to dash 3 motor seat back 4 motor seat bottom tilt. All being reversed with a pair of 87A type Bosh relays. So did i get it right? If not I'd appreciate your input! Thanks Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387640&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:22 GMT Hi, I drove My T5 about 600 miles this week. First I need to fix my drivers seat motor or switch. 1. How do I disconnect the side airbag while I'm working on the seat? Other than disconnecting the batter? I need the battery to test the motor and switch, after I check the fuses. 2. how do I get at the motor or control switch in the car, or do I need to pull the seat? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387631&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:22 GMT Let me try again! Before I went any further with looking at the air pump and check valve of the air injector I happened to look up at the front of the engine compartment where a strip of plastic is fastened to the top of the fan housing. This strip contains several things including the air pump solenoid valve When I looked at it there was a piece of white plastic hose that had come loose from the filter (or vacuum control valve) When I hooked the two together I then cleared the codes and ran the car about 25 miles. On return home I pulled the codes again. No codes. No CEL. No pending codes! The moral of the story is "make sure you check everything that hooks to or could control a function that is giving you a code" Years ago we were told at a GM marine engine seminar with the first ECU control systems that only 1/10 of 1 percent of the computers sent back for warranty on the cars were defective. Left unsaid was that the other 99 and 9/10ths were diagnosed by techs bungling in the field. Something to keep in mind. Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1369566&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 01:45 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1369562&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 01:33 GMT Hi Guys, I got a P0410 code today. It is a "Sec air inject system function" that apears to be a failure of either the ACS valve or the pump, as best I can tell from the archives. Is this the valve that is mounted on the left end of the exhaust manifold, and is the valve mounted to the pump? What kind of a job is it to pull them? It looks mighty tight there. All input appreciated as to past experiences and how to's. Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1368915&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 00:05 GMT I'm trying to complete My CD changer install. I want to hang the CD changer from the underside of the package shed. I see there are 2 speakers and a light around the underside of the shelf. (in the trunk) If I only drill through the bottom of the compartment that opens up on the top of the back shelf am I liable to hit any wires. Anybody know how to get the molded carpet on the top of the shelf up? so I could look better? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357456&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 19:59 GMT Will, Thanks. Mine was already set as I needed it to be. Now all I have to do is figure out how to bolt it up under the package shelf in the trunk with the door facing the front of the car. the CD player is wider than the bottom of the compartment is on the underside. I will figure out some kind of Rube Goldberg arrangement! Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357361&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 11:08 GMT My Cd Changer install project has gone OK. Before I bolt it up in place, I noticed a small plate on one side that had a series of holes in the side going from 0 to 90 degrees. I dimly remember something about adjusting the angle of install depending if the deck was installed facing up or out or at some angle in between. There is also a single screw holding the plate with all the hose into the case. How do I set this? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356850&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 01:21 GMT My Cd Changer install project has gone OK. Before I bolt it up in place, I noticed a small plate on one side that had a series of holes in the side going from 0 to 90 degrees. I dimly remember something about adjusting the angle of install depending if the deck was installed facing up or out or at some angle in between. There is also a single screw holding the plate with all the hose into the case. How do I set this? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356848&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 01:20 GMT I just bought a Used Volvo CD changer (With a Cable!) on E bay Going to hook it up to my SC816 already in the car. I'd appreciate a quick synopsis of the steps involved if you have done this before. Where did you install yours? How do I run the cable from the head in the dashboard to say the trunk? What are the color codes for the Power wires and if you mounted yours in the trunk where did you tap off the power. I understand there will be 3 wires. 1 Always hot 2. switched hot 3. ground Any other tips? Thanks , Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355878&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 20:35 GMT Hi, Take a look at www.fcpgroton.com There are turbo control arms running from $145.00 to $40.00. You might even check Auto Zone or other aftermarket stores to price parts. There is also IPD out on the west coast, but I don't know how deep their suspension line runs. I have bought stuff for a 740T and an S70 T5 from FCP over the year. Bought a lot of stuff from IPD too. Been Satisfied with both their products and service. Good Luck with it, Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355867&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 20:15 GMT Hey Klause, Putting the transmission selector in S rather than E is a trip. Now when I come out into traffic and have some room I have been hitting the kick down and letting the engine rev. Did that the other day after setting the transmission to S and goosed it as came on to a 55 MPH stretch. Surprise surprise when I goosed it just a but the turbo kicked in while I was still in 2nd and the Torque effect on the steering was interesting when it up shifted to 3rd. Wow! Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348408&rss=1 Tue, 12 May 2009 01:08 GMT To see Why I'm asking this see my post About MAP/Barometer Sensor Issues. If the new sensor I just bought does not cure the problem then we may have to decide that It is an ECU problem. Just so I know what's the MSRP for a replament ECU from Volvo? How viable might it be to get a flashed upgraded ECU from IPD? I don't Care about the extra horsepower, seeing as how I have never put the transmission in the S mode. Any other sources for ECUs other than Ebay? Junk yards? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1347932&rss=1 Fri, 8 May 2009 03:02 GMT Here is an update on things. I took it to a good local Independent shop today. He put the scanner on it and gave it the works. sure enough P0107 code (low voltage input to the map sensor) The scanner reported that the MAP sensor was active and the ohms read right. they checked wires at both ends. Their Mechanic (who has worked on my 740Tin the past) felt like the most likely culprit is still the sensor. I took it and drove it about 10 miles and blink the CEL came back on. I went back and they checked it again . Code P0107 again. No surprise. I told them to go ahead and order a MAP sensor and I'd invest the price of it to being able to confirm that the sensor is really good or bad. Now of course if the new one throws a code too then I have to decide what next? I have heard that A code P0107 might be a wiring or ECU issue. I would like to confirm that if possible. See my new post about replacement ECU's Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1347733&rss=1 Thu, 7 May 2009 00:04 GMT Hi Klaus, to be fair I don't know anything about the Audi, but, I did think about them before I bought my 98 S70 T5. However I was put off by the All wheel drive, having heard that AWD cars require all the tires to be exactly the same dimensions. Meaning if you have a half used up set of tires you need to buy 4 new tires rather than just replace one, plus I wondered about the extra complexity of the AWD system. On the plus side AWD might be safer up there in Ohio winters? Tough choice Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1346658&rss=1 Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:31 GMT Hi Klaus, Thanks for the FCPGroton info. I take it by this that you don't think there is any point in worrying about the input voltage and that I should replace the Sensor and be done with it! This sensor has a 2 wire connector. I'm not sure which ignition / injection I have. How can I tell? Now I'll start looking at the Evap leak Thanks again Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1345919&rss=1 Sun, 26 Apr 2009 01:39 GMT Need a little help with MAP Sensor (barometer sensor) Identification. my 98 S70 T5 has a Pierburg brand map sensor installed I'ts part number is 7 219880 02 97t281 I'm getting low voltage input codes. I have just pulled the sensor for the second time , scratched up the connectors and squirted them with Boeshield. I have no idea where the other end of the harness is, but suspect that it probably goes directly to the computer. So I'm kinda stuck as far as trying to clean the other end of the harness. About the same time I have started getting intermittent "Massive evap leak" codes too. Some of the time it seems as if I could twist the cap a few clicks and the problem goes away. I have a code reader and have checked pending codes to not find it pending but then later have it pop back up. So what other things should I check in the evap circuit and can any one point me to the other end of the MAP sensor lead? I would try to get a voltage reading at the sensor end if I knew which wire is which (one is green and orange stripe the other is blue and tan. I assume I would read both of these to ground, one at a time, to determine input voltage and voltage drop through the sensor. OR am I just spinning my wheels and should just bite the bullet and buy a new sensor? $100-$200! Or just go ahead and take it to the garage and let them wrestle with it? As usual TIA for your insights! Woody Cleaning out my trusty 740T with 200,000 miles getting ready to sell it! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1345858&rss=1 Sat, 25 Apr 2009 18:44 GMT I've had a "MAP BAR low input" code for a while, before I pull out the wrong thing, Is the MAP sensor the little cube attached to the plastic strip over the fan? The Cube that has a tiny tube running back to the engine? TIA Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1326378&rss=1 Mon, 19 Jan 2009 17:07 GMT Tonight on the news Ford was quoted as saying they want to sell Volvo. Actually I think they have been saying that for a while. GM has also said they want to sell Saab. Got any thoughts about who might be interested in buying Volvo? My main concern would be that our OEM parts supply not get screwed up. After all not all aftermarket parts are equally good, although many are! Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1317417&rss=1 Wed, 3 Dec 2008 03:34 GMT I decided to see what I could do about cleaning the MAF sensor this am. I pulled the sensor and cleaned it with several applications of CRC MAF sensor cleaner. I decided to change the air filter while I was in there so I went to Advance Auto to get a filter. I decided to bite the bullet for a scanner while I was there and bought an Actron scanner. When I got back to the car, just for grins, I decided to run the codes before I cleared them. I did and got a P0107 code (map/Baro low circuit input)imagine my astonishment when I got that code! Remember my posts earlier in the week? I thought I should have seen A MAF code not a MAP code, based of what the guy at the parts store said a couple of days ago. Because the last fault code the car had while the dealer was trying to get it ready to sell was a MAF code, that was what I was sort of expecting. Then I remembered that the parts guy had sorta stumbled over the code definition and said something like " Oh yeah, a mass air flow sensor code." He replied "yeah, that's it!" Looks like I put words in his mouth! So I have given my self a couple of Dope slaps and got out the manual. So my question is does this code mean that the Voltage is low at the Map sensor or that the data going to the ECU reflects a low data value? In any case I cleared the code and tracked down the Map sensor location on the shroud on top of the fan. I expect to get the code back, but hope that I have a bit more information so I can decide if I need to replace the sensor or look for a low voltage supply. Any thoughts? Woody L http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1312825&rss=1 Thu, 6 Nov 2008 19:31 GMT In the event that I need a Mass air flow sensor, whats the consensus on a Cardone rebuilt sensor versus the new Bosch sensor? there is about a $50.00 difference in price. The real question is is it reliable? At this moment it's a moot point until I clean the old one and see what happens! On another note, can anyone point me to the Volvo instructions to reset the CE light by driving the car? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1312326&rss=1 Tue, 4 Nov 2008 20:07 GMT Hi All, A couple of more questions. What is a good source for a new MAF sensor if I need it. Also what OBD II scanner is a good choice that will scan and reset the codes on the S 70. (Advance auto used their $149.00 model to scan the codes today for me) I don't mind buying a tool, but I want to buy the right one for the job.) Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1312137&rss=1 Tue, 4 Nov 2008 00:18 GMT I got a check engine light today, code said it was Mas air flow sensor. It just so happens that the sensor was cleaned by the mechanic's for the dealer I bought the car from. Non the less I bought a can of CRC mass air flow cleaner and will try to clean it after the northeaster gets away from here. I drove the car about 250 miles since the last cleaner and I have no symptoms at the moment. I'll also clean the connectors and spray a little ACF 50 on them. anything else I should think of? or should i get ready to buy a MAF sensor? Regards Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1312095&rss=1 Mon, 3 Nov 2008 20:47 GMT Well as it turned out I found a nice 98 S70 T5 in the Raleigh NC area, bought it and brought it home. Thanks for all the help As soon as I change the timing belt on my 740T daily driver, it will be up for sale. Woody http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1309049&rss=1 Tue, 21 Oct 2008 10:30 GMT Hi Klaus, Hey you were absolutely right about The radio. Mine is a CR 816 sounds every bit as good as the Alpine head and rewired speakers with a Sony amp and 8" woofer in my 740. Now back to keys! What I'm really trying to determine is: If I can find a metal blank and a locksmith with the right cutter does this key require any programing. In other words is it a "Transponder: Key or not? Or perhaps is it like the keys to my wife's Dodge Caravan after we got a new key with the built in fob I asked the dealer if he could also cut me an "entry only" key. So he made me two more keys (with plastic heads Grrr!) As I was leaving he said, "Oh by the way, don't ever try to use that key in the ignition. It will disable the car and it will have to be towed to the dealer to have re-programing." (Oh great) The issue here is: I don't want to be 250 miles from home and not have a spare key on me. Putting it in my wallet is the easiest way to carry it. I may look at some way to hide a key in the chassis some where with tywraps or ss safety wire that I could crawl under and get in an emergency. Hey I got through the weekend with out loosing them! Actually I really like the fob and the fact that it doesn't blow the horn when it locks and unlocks the car. My alarm system even seems to work! I have given a little thought to getting an extra fob to go with a spare key set, but decided against trying to lash a fob under the car as the solution to being locked out. I am afraid that the fob might not work when it was gotten out from under the car. Ok. I've blathered along long enough. I really like my new car!! Regards Woody 1991 740T 1998 S70 T5 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1308953&rss=1 Mon, 20 Oct 2008 22:44 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/