http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=11829 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hi All - Im working on the fuel sending unit of my 87 240. I decided to go out and purchase a new unit - the old one is rusted through. I noticed that it looks nothing like the old unit in the fact that it is plastic and doesnt appear to attach to the tank in the same way as the old steel unit... Is this standard - meaning I will need to get a new tank, too? Should the replacement be metal as the old unit? Thanks!! You guys are a HUGE help in keeping this old volvo going.. Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715753&rss=1 Mon, 1 Dec 2003 03:26 GMT Hi all, I have an 87 240 and the temp gauge isnt working. I replaced the sensor to no avail. Whats the method of testing the gauge, please? Thanks, Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=713950&rss=1 Wed, 26 Nov 2003 03:38 GMT Im about to dive into replacing the gas tank - it's all rusted out on top. I have a unit Im picking up at the salvage yard, but I have 2 questions: 1. Do I need any special tools for fuel line fittings, or anything? 2. Im assuming that I may want to replace fuel lines? Is this a good assumption? Hwo much should I prepare in way of parts, in advance for this job? The salvage yard is giving me the in-tank pump with the tank. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=705454&rss=1 Wed, 5 Nov 2003 19:03 GMT Hi all, My 87 sedan has a faint smell of gas from the rear area - but no leaks at all!!! Can someone tell me a good place to start? I was hesitating taking out the gas tank as a first step...unless someone tells me that's the best place to start... I can't figure this out - there seems to be no sign of a liquid leak anywhere..though I did just replace the bushings..maybe the banging around back there did something?? Thanks, Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=685653&rss=1 Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:11 GMT Ok - so I idnt check her first, and Im hammering away at the f'n bushing. Im just going to buy the tool, now that Ive spent a few hours with no result. Anyway, to confirm - the bushing is forced out toward the inside of the vehicle, correct? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=661140&rss=1 Sun, 20 Jul 2003 03:13 GMT Im just going to buy the F'n tool...I've had it. What a dummy I am. I didnt chekc here first, and Ive been swinging a hammer for 2 hours trying to loosen. I do have a question, though... The bushings come out of their cradles to the inside of the car correct? Thanks!!!! Next time Ill prepare. Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=661098&rss=1 Sun, 20 Jul 2003 00:52 GMT If it does turn out to be the head gasket...dont worry. I just did my first head gasket on my 87 - and it wasnt too hard at all. Get yourself a good machine shop to do the actual head work, and order all the parts ahead of time and it will be a breeze. I changed the water pump, timing belt, etc while I was in there. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=660150&rss=1 Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:07 GMT Anyone have any good methods for replacing the covering on the wiring harness? Mine has split near the valve cover gasket, and I wanted to do something better than electrical tape, something that might protect a bit from heat, oil, etc. Thanks, Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=660146&rss=1 Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:05 GMT Nice story. Here's an alternative reply...although yours was pretty good.. "Let's go 30mph head on. See who walks away." http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=660144&rss=1 Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:02 GMT 1. What is the best adhesive to use on the molding that glues to the body 2. Where can I get the fasteners for the small bottom trim that pops into those precut holes? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=655958&rss=1 Wed, 9 Jul 2003 01:27 GMT 87 Volvo 240 sedan I replaced the radiator and now the transmission cooling line leaks. I tightened it sufficiently, and Im not sure how to fix it. Any tricks here?? Thanks once again! Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=644433&rss=1 Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:38 GMT 87 Volvo 240DL Auto A/C There's a sensor that screws directly into the cylinder head (intake side), behind the single lead temperature sensor. It's a dual-lead sensor with a locking type connector. I accidentally destroyed it putting it back in the cylinder head after machining. Can someone tell me the name of this?? Thanks, Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=642891&rss=1 Mon, 9 Jun 2003 12:28 GMT When removing the sprocket - is it keyed, or should I mark the shaft along the index on the sprocket? (Never did this - dont want to mess it up).. Thanks!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=635425&rss=1 Tue, 20 May 2003 15:40 GMT Is the cam sprocket keyed, or should I mark it before loosening the bolt? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=635397&rss=1 Tue, 20 May 2003 15:08 GMT Hi All, Im replacing the head gasket - and my question regards the removal of the camshaft pulley. Does this need to come off? I can't see another way, with the timing belt cover behind it? If it does need to come off, is there a locking tool, similar to the tool for the crank pulley? Also - what's the trick for replacing the seal? Is it just a simple removal?? Thanks (once again), Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=635334&rss=1 Tue, 20 May 2003 14:02 GMT Hi all. I just changed the water pump and timing belt. Everything works great..except for an oil leak. Looking at the pump on the front from the alternator side, it appears that after about 15 minutes of warmup, oil is coming from around the top area of the water pump toward the rear where it meets the engine. There are no oil seals on the pump correct? Does this mean its the (oh no) head gasket..??? It's strange, I will cleanup the oil, then it seeps out in somewhat slow burst-like fashion when the engine is hot but shutoff.. Thanks to all once again, Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=630359&rss=1 Fri, 9 May 2003 02:23 GMT I just replaced the timing belt, tensioner and crank pulley. The car *seems* to be sluggish on acceleration, but, as I ahvent driven the car in weeks, Im thinking the is just the old girl I've forgotten. My question is this: If I was even slightly off on the placement of the sprockets, how would it present? Would it be pinging, etc? Or would it be slight? Should I recheck the timing with a gun, and make small adjustments if necessary? Thanks all!! Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=628936&rss=1 Tue, 6 May 2003 15:50 GMT Thank you for the quick and knowledgeable reply. Much appreciated! Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=624050&rss=1 Sun, 27 Apr 2003 01:05 GMT Hi all, Im changing the water pump on my 87 240, and the coolant bypass hose does not want to come off. I took out the nut and bolt holding the clamp in place. should i Just tap on the back of the water pump to move the pump forward, thus removing the hose? I dont want to damage the hose, so i figured I would see if there's a good way to do this. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=624028&rss=1 Sun, 27 Apr 2003 00:12 GMT Is that the air mass meter? On top of the induction hose? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=592506&rss=1 Fri, 21 Feb 2003 18:19 GMT Hi All, The ole Volvo broke down the other day. Sudden loss of power, rough running. Pulled over and shut down. Appeared to be overheating (although temp gauge read low - SUSPECT). Towed home. Took a look at it yesterday. Oil looks good (level, color). Coolant reservior low, and slight shade of brown. When I try to start it - it seems like it's missing while starting - almost like it's hitting wrong stroke or something - very strange, labored starting. Won't fire correctly. This has me stumped. I initially thought this was head gasket, but now not sure. Maybe timing belt slipped?? Should I check the timing, too? Can I get a rough guess by looking at any alignment marks on the cam and crank? Thanks in advance. Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=592360&rss=1 Fri, 21 Feb 2003 12:45 GMT Well...the blizzard of 2003 and Im out of work early, to be left stranded on the highway. The car immediately lost power, the shuddered to a stop. Turned over briefly, but then died. Luckily the tow truck pulled up immediately (must have been following me). Picked me up then 1 mile down the road picked up 3 German kids in their daddys convertible (after they did a couple of 360's into the guardrail). I had to look away as the girl started complaining about the tow truck guy scratching her paint (I pointed out to her that besides the smashed front, she put a good scrape down the entire side of the car). They WERE going boarding, but their stunts on the road put an end to that trip. Needless to say I didnt plan on being stuffed into the front of a tow truck in the blizzard with 4 other people! Anyway, the coolant reservior is filled with completely brown liquid (coolant/oil??). So, Im guessing blown head gasket - antifreeze leaking into the cylinders, oil into the coolant passages. Sound accurate? Next question - there's a procedure somewhere on the site, but I cant find it. Found plenty of articles, but not right one. Im guessing the steps are: 1. Remove exhaust and intake manifolds 2. Remove radiator/fan shroud/fan 3. Remove timing belt 4. Remove valve cover 5. Remove head 6. Bring head to machine shop 7. Drink beer 8. Get new gasket for head, new timing belt, gaskets for exhaust, intake, etc. 9. Buy more beer 10. Put everything back together... Simplified, but pretty much there? Thanks all - you guys rule the internet. Im not sure if I should do this or not. The car has some good rot in the rockers, and underneath is starting to go. Maybe should just part it and get another. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=590643&rss=1 Tue, 18 Feb 2003 02:11 GMT Hi All, The top rear of the engine occasionally bangs against the firewall. If I gently push back and forth I can replicate the noise I hear often when driving. My transmission brace is shot - so Im replacing that today. Is this the problem, or should I investigate the tranny mount and engine mounts, too. There seems to be a good deal of clearance between the oil filter and the frame, so that should rule out engine mounts, correct? Thanks again!! Awesome site. Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=561064&rss=1 Mon, 16 Dec 2002 16:20 GMT Hi All, While servicing my volvo, I noticed the brace which attaches to the body, just under the transmission, that connects to the body on each side of the transmission, is rotted almost through. Is this structural support for the drivetrain, or is it to protect the underside of the tranny? I ask to determine how quickly I should think of replacing this piece. Thanks once again, Curt http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=560211&rss=1 Sat, 14 Dec 2002 01:09 GMT Could someone please inform me of the pieces involved in the strut replacement? I've looked at the manual and strut directions, and think Im missing something, or the aftermarket (Gabriel) struts dont fit correctly, as there seems to be some clunking around, although the car rides fine..I think Im going to the dealership for the right parts. They said that my model may need one of two variants.. From the bottom: 1. Strut spacer (rubber bumper goes into strut tube, strut rests on this at bottom) 2. Strut (goes into strut tube) 3. Retaining nut (locks strut into strut tube) 4. Bellows/bumper (covers the strut) 5. Spring 6. Spring Cap (goes on top of spring) 7. Strut tower (top) - goes on top of spring cap - bolts to strut. 8. Washer & bolt - for top of strut - secures unit. That should be it - right? Is there a washer underneath the bellows/bumper to retain the unit from rattling up and down? Thanks in advance... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=559120&rss=1 Wed, 11 Dec 2002 15:37 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/