http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=1161 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:30 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:30 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. This is NOT the place to ask questions about your broken Volvo. Go to the appropriate forum; RWD (PV,100,200,700,900, and 90 series models) or AWD for all front and all wheel drive models. That is where the experts on your car will be lurking. http://www.brickboard.com/TOOLBOX/?id=1386962&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:34 GMT The igition coil may turn out to not be the answer but it makes the most sense to finish off the list of <i>most likely</i> culprits before moving on to less likely and very unlikely ones. Honestly... I'll be d***ed if I can figure out why you would prefer to replace parts during the pouring rain instead of replacing the coil beforehand and judging the wet weather starts from the driver's seat. The partly flooded engine (weak spark) may not start right up, and mislead you to believe that the coil didn't help. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380735&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:16 GMT I don't understand why you would need to look at wire colour simply because I mentioned it. You are jumping around for no good reason. The high-voltage side of the ignition system has remained to most moisture sensitive section of a gasoline engine since Kettering (early 1900s). According to your original post, you've replaced everything in that system <i>except</i> the coil. A small crack in the tower will cause exactly the symptoms you have. It's the next likely culprit. The module, on the other hand, is not moisture sensitive therefore very unlikely. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380420&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 04:44 GMT That's more guessing, and not even a good one. If the filter were partly blocked, the symptom would be load related and always present. The car could not run OK cold (in fact it would run worse during cold enrichment) and the pressure would recover at idle. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380418&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 04:31 GMT I was refering to the ignition module also. Its location does not matter. NONE of the modules used in the car need to have their case grounded to work electrically. My point was that corrosion on the mounting screws of any module could not be the cause of an electrical problem. Brown is the wire colour most often used for ground circuitry in German and some English cars. This was copied by Volvo. Black, commonly used for that purpose in N America, is usually a power circuit in European cars. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380299&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:59 GMT Distributor caps are sealed in a way to prevent splash from entering inside but they are vented and not meant to be watertight. A rotor and distribtor cap with sound insulation will perform properly even with humid air inside. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380298&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 15:53 GMT I was curious whether you replaced the ignition coil yet and got a chance to wet test it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380212&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 22:50 GMT Now you know why I said this was important information. If your mechanic had done this early on (and based on the symptom, he should have), you would have saved a LOT of checking, guessing, testing, asking, replacing, getting stuck, walking home. Pressure regulator is out of the picture, this is a delivery fault. My instinct has me at the same point as I started - main fuel pump related. Being so consistent puts a few other items a lottle lower on the list. However, if I was working on this car, I'd monitor the voltage at the pump terminals to be sure that the voltage isn't dropping due to heat and load showing a wiring weakness. You can do this by taking two wires, stick a bared end into the push-on connector and replace onto each electrical post on the pump. Put a voltmeter on the other ends to monitor pump voltage. If the pump voltage remains over 11V and pressure drops, pump itself is bad. Because of the consistency, I'd say that one winding of the armature is grounding when heated and causing a significant drop in motor efficiency. It's one of the few explanations that logically explains your symptom without ghouls, goblins, ghosts or maybes. Relay, athough possible, usually fails because of bad solder connections inside and cause <i>unpredictable</i> LOSS of fuel pump, not low pressure. Intank pump can be checked separately but high fuel tank level almost always covers its failure. You can disconnect the big hose to the main pump, put a bucket under the hose, crank the starter for 15 seconds. If you have a cup or more of gas in the bucket - it's good. Faster test; if the car runs the same with a full tank, this isnt the cause - even if the pump is bad. Try one other thing before going further - on the itsy-bitsy chance that the tank vent is blocked, loosen the fuel cap right after the pressure drops and recheck it. So you don't have to ask what some of this means; if voltage and fuel cap checks don't reveal anything, then the main pump is your answer. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380124&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:09 GMT If you decided to pull all the front stuff off, you don't need a second person and there's very little tilting, maybe 10 degrees. The two lift points on the intake are perfect. A slight lift off the front mounts and the tranny still doesn't scrape the floorpan. There is one or two up then forward stages (or its reverse) while doing it, but definitely a one man job with very little man vs. machine if balanced correctly. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379037&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 23:00 GMT If you want a guide to each pin function, and are OK with wire colours that apply to a different vehicle, PM me with your email address. I have a document on LH 2.2 & 2.4 that covers its operation and several applications. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378964&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:03 GMT For the most part, it's the easier way. I have personally found that unbolting the bumper, and removing the radiator, intercooler (turbo cars) and AC condenser, and grille makes it a snap. It all slides straight in and out from the front. Another method that only works well if you have a four-post lift; unbolt the steering coupling, ball joints & ties rods OR calipers & upper strut mounts, trans X-member and front x-member. Then raise the body at the jacking points. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378949&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:17 GMT As others have said, you'll need to describe the specific symptom the car has. "seems to have uneven pressure" doesn't say much. I have a suspicion, so answer two questions; did the "problem" happen after you did some kind of work on the car? Is the pedal low and brakes somewhat weak? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378943&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:06 GMT My (uneducated in the matter) guess is that this car was a Euro car provided to a Diplomat. MPH could be for UK or US, and may have simply been by request to avoid converting while driving. Check the driver's door for DOT compliance, and underhood for emission qualification. It may give a better clue the original market. I will comment on a (common) error that you made; the headlight capsule is <i>not</i> the composite lens/relector assembly, it was a marketing term for the replaceable halogen light bulb (just look at its shape). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378802&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:12 GMT The issue of the kickdown cable outer sheath getting pulled out of the adjuster ferrule has been posted many times before. It happens when somebody reaches down for the transmission dipstick with their arm on the wrong side of the cable. The vacuum hose you found was to the heater control valve and gets used only at maximum cooling (turns off hot water to heater core). The AW transmission uses no vacuum inputs at all. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378797&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:00 GMT What diameter rotors are on the front of the 740? If they are 11.00" (converted to 1991 type) or 11.25", then 15" wheels are minimum. 10.5" rotor can take the 14" rims http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378752&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:29 GMT Definitely not the answer! One, the problem is very likely in the high tension side of the ignition system. Two, the module gets its ground through the brown wire at terminal 2, <i>not</i> the mounting screws. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378743&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 15:33 GMT You have replaced everything in the high-voltage section <i>except</i> the ignition coil. Its tower can breakdown just like the dizzy cap and rotor. Get another Bosch part for there too. Cheap Chinese copies suck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378628&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 22:16 GMT Dumb as this may sound, be sure that the wheel isn't held tight by only two nuts. Check 'em all for tightness. Second to check would be runout of the tire treads. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378596&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 19:50 GMT Are you sure it is the "check engine" light? What you described is the "service" light. They are not the same. Check Engine is a detected emission related failure. Service light is oil change interval - 5,000 mile / 8,000 kms. It can be reset by removing the rubber plug located left of speedo, and firmly depressing the button behind it using a ball-point pen or philips head screwdriver. Push again if light comes on again on next start. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378512&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 07:53 GMT Which way do the oblong bushings go into the torque links... pointy sides toward the ends or 1/4 turn from that? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378479&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 02:24 GMT Only one on your list is even a possible suspect - intank fuel pump - but that would probably be tank level related performance. Throttle body switch; it puts LH into idle mode for static ignition timing and IAC operation. Except for idle, and on some turbo cars the WOT position - this switch is completely open circuited and ignored. This is way off the list. Bad FPR would more likely be black smoke, poor fuel economy, fuel in oil, emission failure... not good idle and poor accel. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378465&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:48 GMT One reply "Steve" got it closest (but backward). In almost any automobile charging circuit that uses a light to indicate alternator operation, the power circuit from the ignition switch is routed through the bulb to put the voltage regulator into charge mode. The rotating winding inside the alternator requires electrical power to become magnetic and cause conversion of mechanical energy (belt and pulley) into electrical energy used for powering accessories and battery charging. The switched input prevents drain when the engine is off and allows full charging ability even at low engine speed. Using the light circuit saves some redundant wiring. If the voltage regulator senses a charge fault, it put a ground potential on the circuit causing current to flow through the bulb's filament, causing it to light. In short; the needed bulb circuit is part of the dash wiring. Ford used to put a 50 ohm resistor in the wiring harness to prevent charge failure if the bulb burns out. Stupidly, most other cars will not charge with a bad bulb (meaning it should be on to say that). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378450&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:11 GMT Conversion from Euro (5 wire) cars to US (4 wire) is fairly common. His problem is a serious voltage loss to run the rear lights, even without the trailer lighting. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378436&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 00:13 GMT Open the hood and watch the intake pipe going to the throttle body. Tromp on the throttle and look for that tube collapsing. It'll run like you opened the throttle and then quickly closed it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378419&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 22:37 GMT If the fluid is less than 3/4" (20mm) over the full@hot mark, don't sweat it. If you relly need to drain some, loosen the dipstick tube nut one-two turns and pull the tube outward to let some drain. Do not turn it any further than easily done by fingers after the first turn as there is a rollpin in the outer nut that prevents full removal. Just treat the car as though no drain plug was provided (virtually all other cars on the road). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378418&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 22:34 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/