http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=1155 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 12:15 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 12:15 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I'm not crying for these people, nor do I think they shouldn't pay their fair share. The only point I was trying to make is that there will be more and more people attempting to skirt the IRS the higher the tax rate goes - not saying that it's at all justified. And the more of the super wealthly that do it, the more of the middle class that will be seen as "wealthy" in the eyes of the IRS. In other words, higher and higher taxes for those of us in the middle. Business as usual. BTW - I'm one of the poor jerks still drawing a paycheck. http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1387202&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:13 GMT You're right - at least it's bringing in some sort of money that we wouldn't have seen otherwise. I do think though that when they start cranking up the tax rates to try and pay down this outrageous debt we face, that a certain number of otherwise honest people will start investigating "other options". http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1387178&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:30 GMT So they basically get off the hook unscathed, and at a perfect time to trade their Swiss francs back in for US dollars. That alone nets them a tighty little profit. Kinda makes you wonder who brokered that one. What I'm wondering is how the feds are going to stop it in the future. As the income tax rate starts to clinb through the ceiling, there is going to be money moving overseas at a rate never before imagined. Good luck trying to police that one. In the case of the Swiss, I see in the article that there was an agreement to report any accounts over $1M. What a joke! That simply means that Mr. and Mrs, Wealthy American will be spreading their money across multiple banks in order to stay under the radar. http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1387154&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:33 GMT Diode - capacitor - transistor, I knew it was some sort of electronic thingamajigger. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387062&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:30 GMT I've got a 92 745 with the same problem. From what I've been reading on this BB about the problems with those speedos, I'm thinking your chances of getting a good one from a wrecking yard are pretty slim. I called Voluparts in Atlanta one day and I believe they said a used replacement speedo head goes for about $75. The thing is, they'll gaurantee it to work at least for a short period of time. I'm curious, when you took your's apart, did you happen to notice the diodes leaking? Also, have you read this: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalSpeedometerRepair.htm Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387007&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:27 GMT It has about 13,000 and 1.5 years on the air filter. The cabin filter is another story though - I don't know how long it's been in there - probably 85,000 miles. I'll have to check that out. Thanks again. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386597&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:12 GMT Thanks, Klaus. I drove in down to the local auto parts store and had them pull the codes. It showed a MAF sensor error. The guy said to try cleaning it with some $7 spray cleaner they had. So I bit and took it. He said some people use spray brake cleaner but I was reluctant to use something other than what's labelled for the job. So I went home and sprayed a little through the MAF - it smelled just like brake cleaner. Then I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to clear the code. We drove the car tonight and so far no warning lights. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386379&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 04:04 GMT I'm getting: ENGINE SYTEM SERVICE REQUIRED on the message board. Also Check Engine light illuminated. We purchased the car with 72K miles and now have 85K. We have never seen a service reminder of any kind, nor any CEL. Today I changed the oil and filter. Later in the afternoon my wife drove the car and got the above warnings. Any ideas as to the cause? Can I reset the service light (or the CEL also) with some sort of key turning or "pushing three buttons at the same time while honking the horn" type of action? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386183&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:00 GMT Zinc anodes are used in marine applications, but they are in contact with the sea water. I don't know how this sort of thing would work in an automobile. http://www.answers.com/topic/zinc-anodes I've also seen where a small electrical charge is sometimes applied to the re-bar inside concrete structures to slow corrosion. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385654&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:16 GMT The trans tunnel may be tight. Is your B20 capoot? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384715&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 16:40 GMT You were right. I reprogrammed the button and all is well. Another example of "why try the simple solution if I can make something difficult out of it?" http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384653&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 13:07 GMT Not stupid at all. I'm gonna try it. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384323&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 20:22 GMT Keep in mind that B20E's and F's (d-jet) had vacuum RETARD, not ADVANCE. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384258&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 16:08 GMT It's not the cam gear or the fan clutch getting rattley is it? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384132&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 17:20 GMT I looked at their web site. It says 1999-2006 S80 isn't covered. However you say it works for you. I wonder what's up. $1150 SEK = about $162 Yankee. Might be money well spent if I don't want the car to live at the repair shop. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1383928&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 20:36 GMT We're having a problem with the drivers seat. I can move it fore and aft using the regular adjustment switch. But pushing any of the three memory buttons won't move the seat or the seat back angle. The mirrors DO move however, so it appears there is no problem with the memory buttons themselves. And since the seat moves when commanded by the regular adjustment switch, I would conclude there is nothing wrong with the motor or mechanicals. Is there a seperate fuse for moving the seat via the memory button? Or does anyone know of another cause for this malfunction? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1383910&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 19:20 GMT Is it not a function of RPM? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383692&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 22:28 GMT It sounds to me like they ordered the part without payment up front. Then they hit her with the bill when she went to pick it up. I'm just guessing. Good advice from the people that said to go have a calm discussion with the management. Take the boy along with you, it might just pull on their heart strings a bit. Besides, it's another part of car ownership that he needs to learn. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382946&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:33 GMT Even if it came to pass, I don't know that I'd get all wound up about it. It's not like the day after the sale the new owners would come box up the whole factory and haul it off to China. An example is when Ford took it over. Some people make the claim that today's Volvo's are all screwed up because of Ford, when in fact Volvo had already begun the journey to Crapville before that transaction ever took place. And after the buyout I saw little evidence that Ford had a whole lot of influence on the Volvo line - probably some, but not a lot. I think if anything, Volvo had a much greater influence on the Ford line. I heard a whole lot about how the new Fords shared Volvo's technology, and on and on. But I don't think I recall hearing that Volvo was using much of ANYTHING from Ford. Admittedly, the Chinese probably have very little to bring to the table technically, but they certainly have something else Ford badly needs right now - lotsa $'s. Plus, these aren't stupid people you're dealing with. They know good and well the fastest way to get up to speed technologically is to go buy it, take it apart, see how it works, and then go back home and mimic it. Sure, it will take them a while to get it right. But let's think back to the late 50's - early 60's. What was the expression? Let's see.... something about "cheap Japanese junk"? Now look where the Japanese are. (Honda, Toyota, etc.) It's quite likely that if Volvo were purchased by someone like that, the new owners would do somewhat the same as Ford - basically leave it alone to follow it's own self-destructive destiny, use it as a learning tool, exploit some of the valuable technologies, and then after several years dump it because it isn't nearly as profitable as the models they're cranking out for half the price back in the home land. Of course Ford seems to have had trouble with that last part - building a profitable product back home. The Asians wouldn't have that problem as they're far more motivated. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382797&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:53 GMT If there was ever a plug wired in for trailor lights that would be something to suspect. Often times a shade tree mechanic will hook that stuff up without too much concern for wires chafing later, etc. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381492&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:09 GMT I believe if you look closely, you'll find it to be a bolt and nut rather than stud/nut. If that's the case, you may be able to grind the head off the bolt (on the front side of the pump) and drive the shank on through. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381315&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:52 GMT Go find some of their reports from about 15-20 years ago and see what they suggested as good automobiles to purchase. Does it fit with what we know today (15-20 years down the road), or did they say to purchase cars like Saturns and Chevy Monzas? http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1381083&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 20:24 GMT Check this out from the 700/900 FAQ: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm#DrainingEngineCoolant Scroll down a couple paragraphs to the flush procedure. (It would be the same info for your 240.) Then put a new thermostadt in it. You might ask the local Volvo independant shops what temp range they recommend for winter driving in your area. That should get your heater working. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378284&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 11:40 GMT Yep, you gotta remove the harmonic balancer and the lower belt cover. No need to look in the distributor as long as you have the intermediate shaft sprocket on it's index mark. Check out this link: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/B230FTimingBeltAlignment.htm http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377957&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 20:56 GMT Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377699&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 21:26 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/