http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=11119 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:26 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:26 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I have used Castrol GTX since the seventies (uh . . . actually '69) when I was driving Triumphs. I think I used 15w-40 (or maybe 20w-40) at the time. When I finally got tired of trying to keep the Triumphs on the road and jumped over to Volvo, I stayed with the same oil. At some point, I went to 10w-30, and that's what I have used for years. For my 2 cents, Castrol GTX 10w-30 with Mann's filters are as good as it gets. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1103277&rss=1 Wed, 9 Aug 2006 02:05 GMT I've used Castol Hypoy C 80w-90 Gear oil (dino) in my Volvos for 25 years and a million miles . . . never an issue. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1091768&rss=1 Sat, 1 Jul 2006 01:37 GMT Also, once you replace the flame trap (which I assume you need to do -- and clean all the lines as well!), be sure to replace the rubber gasket on the oil cap. Those things tend to get hard and allow oil to blow by after about 25 - 30k miles. Just order the oil cap gasket when you get the flame trap kit; it will be only about a dollar. Be sure the kit includes the flame trap housing as well. Again not too expensive, but you need a spare. The little nipple where the small hose goes breaks off easily, and if the original on your car has been there for a long time, it may well be brittle and break around the top as you try to remove the flame shield itself. By the way, the flame shield will probably be stuck in place thhough years of gunk. I use a wooded dowel to push from the bottom and pop it out the top. Allen H http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1090603&rss=1 Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:51 GMT An interesdting experiment might be to stick the old sender unit back in to see what effect that has. Could be the two units are both fine, but just regulated a bit differently. I think I am understanding from your post that the difference before and after was only a needle width or so . . . Of course, Volvo says "just keep it between the red," but I agree I like mine riding on the "9." Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1090599&rss=1 Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:39 GMT There are two ways to look at this thing, and I have been there done that several times over the years. As a practical matter, I you intend to make the car a daily driver (or if your girlfriend intends this), then use a calculator and figure what you will have to put in it v. what you could get out of it. With what you are telling me, I think that decision is pretty clear. OTOH, if you can afford a "basement car," then spend what it takes to get it up to speed, and drive it only on weekends. Old Volvos (like old MG's, Jags, '57 Chevy's, etc) are great cars and can be restored to make great toys, but if you are looking at transportation, then spend much less money on a later model in good driving condition. Wouldn't it be cool to sell your "project" to someone who will do a restoration?! I really hate killing old cars, but there comes a time . . . Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1089457&rss=1 Fri, 23 Jun 2006 13:00 GMT No big deal. Just getting oil circulating and into the filter. Some folks "prime" the filter, but with a sideways filter mount, that seems kinda messy. Even when you did not use ramps, you probably had a similar delay. Like Irv, I have driven Volvos to over 1 mil miles (though it took six cars to get there!). I promise I have never had an issue related to a three second oil light! Allen H http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1088842&rss=1 Wed, 21 Jun 2006 12:49 GMT A number of years ago, I had an experience with a 740 (same engine) where the screen on the oil pump got full of crap and would periodically cause the oil pump to run out of anything to pump. The light would come on, and I would stop, and this went on for about a week, until I figured what was happening. Not that I drove any distance at all with the light on, but the light did come on a half dozen times during that time period. That was probably 125k ago, and the car now has almost 300k with no engine issues. My guess is that you are fine. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1088209&rss=1 Mon, 19 Jun 2006 12:25 GMT About a month ago, my son managed to run my black SE into the rear of a pick-up truck. There was not a lot of real damage to the car -- other than front plastic parts and bumper -- but the airbag popped and took the windshield with it. After looking at alternatives, I have decided to sell the car. If I had the time and salvage parts, I certainly would keep the car, but I can see it sitting around a long time before I do anything with it. Within the past 2-3 months, I have replaced the Nivomats and front struts (Boge Pro-gas), replaced the radiator (Nissans 3-row), replaced the head(!), done the timing belt, replaced the cam seal, distributor seal, front seal, and turbo seals. (The engine runs very smooth and strong). So, if anyone is looking for a project, here is a great start. The sheet metal was not damaged in the least, and the interior is in good shape. I can be reached at abhendry@comcast.net, or (865) 482-7412. (Thankfully, I still have my 240, so I will not go into Volvo withdrawl!) Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1073671&rss=1 Wed, 3 May 2006 12:44 GMT I remember seeing a post about a failed seal which spills oil on the oil filter. I just do not remember which seal. Somebody please remind me. Thanks. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1069749&rss=1 Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:55 GMT "adjusting the air/fuel mixture by ear . . ." That brings back memories! I remember adjusting the air flow on the duel SU's of my Spitfire, TR-4, TR-6 using a short run of plastic hose held to my ear. That was just after adjusting the points, setting the idle speed, checking the "dwell," messing around with the timing . . . And wondering if "radial" tires were really worth the extra cost! Maybe I do need to get into the 21st century (but the old days were fun, too!). Allen http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1069743&rss=1 Thu, 20 Apr 2006 11:39 GMT Now that I've made everyone mad, let me explain myself. I am a 50-something guy who bought a new 240 in 1984 and have had a half dozen "red blocks" since, all going well over 200k with few problems. I presently have a 240, a 740, and a 940 SE, in various stages of repair/disrepair. But, I have run into a sweet '96 850 that seems to be calling my name. That's a big jump for someone who had never owned a front-wheel anything. Do you guys (and gals) like 850's as much as the old RWD's? Is maintenence, longevity, etc. comparable? Are 850's DIY friendly? What's the best manual for these (short of the green books -- if there are green books) I know this must be a worn out question for you on this side of the board, but I would really appreciate your input. I have hung around the RWD side for years, but have had little interest in this side -- until now. Thanks much. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1069630&rss=1 Thu, 20 Apr 2006 00:22 GMT Agreed, these Yoko's are the best tire I've run on my 240/740/940's. I am in the process of buying my first FWD Volvo, so I'll find out how they do on these "other" cars. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1066611&rss=1 Sun, 9 Apr 2006 12:55 GMT My 17 year old son just crashed my SE sedan into the back of a pick-up truck. The car really came out well, but the airbag deployed, breaking the windshield, and "all" the front end plastic and bumper are pretty much trash at this point. Of course, per the insurance company, the car is totaled. My big issue is that within the past two months, I have done engine/turbo seals, a timing belt, water pump, Nivomats, and a HEAD(!). And otherwise, the car was in pristine condition in and out. So, I am trying to figure what to do. Without the $2000(!) air bag and windshield($$$), it would be a "no brainer," but I am wondering if repairing with salvage parts is a wise course. The dollars and cents are not adding up, given these two expensive parts. Is the airbag now a legal requirement? Is there such a thing as a salvage airbag? Does the windshield from a regular 940 fit an SE -- I know the hood is different, but I don't know about the windshield? I am heading out now to my favorite salvage yard to see what options might be available. Maybe I can find a donor body for my refurbished turbo engine. Maybe I can luck up on cheap front end parts. Maybe I can do some horse trading for another Volvo. Or maybe I can just sell parts. At least I will enjoy the day! Any suggestions? (Other than hurting my kid and putting him is a "multi-paint" '83 240 with 350k on the clock. I've already thought of that!!). Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1066090&rss=1 Fri, 7 Apr 2006 12:41 GMT Sorry, my hyper link didn't . . . Try www.toptiergas.com. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1063000&rss=1 Wed, 29 Mar 2006 02:25 GMT Check out <www.toptiergas.com>. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1062999&rss=1 Wed, 29 Mar 2006 02:22 GMT Years ago ('84) when I bought my first 240 that called for 89 octane, my wife and I played with switching to different grades of gasoline on a trip, to see if it made any difference. We ran a tank of 89, then 87, then 89, etc. and considered mileage, performance, "ping," and so on. Performance suffered just a bit with the '87, and mileage dropped a mile or two. On the other hand, the "ping" difference was negligible, i.e. we heard only a bit of detonation and then only when the engine was pressed hard. But, I have always used the mid grade in my current cars. I like my Volvos to "be all they can be!" If you think about it, you are only talking the cost of a Happy Meal on a tankful, and you might well get some of that back through increased mileage, so I think it is money well spent. Maybe you could "compromise" with 89 octane? 89 is essentially 91 watered down, i.e. mixed at the pump, with 87. Try different brands; you may find an 89 that serves you well. Personally, I would be inclined to just go with the 91, but many on this board report doing just fine -- long term -- with octane lower than spec'd. As an aside, I have had two outboard (boat) mechanics tell me to absolutely use high octane in my Merc, to avoid potential carbon problems. Maybe that holds true for four-cycle engines, too. Something else to consider anyway. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1062753&rss=1 Tue, 28 Mar 2006 13:36 GMT As an aside, I have had great experience over many years with the Advance Auto store brand. Can't think of the name off hand, but I remember they come in either "silver" or "gold." Gold, of course, has the longer warantee period. They have plenty of cranking power and last for years w/o issues, and the fit is near OEM. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1061208&rss=1 Thu, 23 Mar 2006 12:57 GMT I have been working on a stripped oil pan drain hole for a while, but have the problem only partially solved. As apparently there is no such thing as an over-sized drain plug as large as that which fits a Volvo (at least not known to any of the auto parts places in my area), I ended up tapping the pan to 1/2" pipe threads and then using a brass plumbing style plug. Worked ok but since plumbing threads are slightly tapered in order that the pipe tightens as it goes, one cannot run a plumbing plug all the way to the pan and use a traditional washer -- copper or otherwise -- to seal. So, I am stuck with a drip. I used Permatex w/teflon, a non-hardening thread sealer, but still I have a drip. Any ideas about a more effective, yet removable sealer? Any other ideas period?? Thanks. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1059498&rss=1 Fri, 17 Mar 2006 02:49 GMT What is a Fumoto valve and where do you get it?? If you are talking about one of the rubber, self-tightening plugs, I have been unable to locate one in a size that will accomodate the large drain hole in a Volvo. Thanks. BTW, what I ended up doing with my stipped 240, was to retread to a 1/2" pipe tread and then use a brass plumbing style plug. (I just could not find a tap or an over-size auto plug that would fit the large Volvo drain size). Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1058946&rss=1 Wed, 15 Mar 2006 12:52 GMT Volvos are great cars, and they are safe cars, but they are not indestructable -- neither are their drivers. I have an article I saved from a few years back which shows "the rest of the story." I tried to scan the darn thing to share the accompanying photo with the Board, but I just cannot figure out how to do an attachment/photo in this response. Anyway, a 16 year old kid was driving a 240 wagon when he left the road at high speed, hit a tree, and the wagon was torn literally in half. The photo shows the front of the car resting near the tree with the back half of the car probably 25 or 30 feet away. Obviously, the kid did not make it. Be careful . . . Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1058230&rss=1 Mon, 13 Mar 2006 02:26 GMT Fully agree. I have taken several Volvos to over 200k, all NA, all regular dino. Never a problem related to lubrication. Presently have a 740 with 260k +. All dino, etc. -- no leaks, using less than a quart between 5000 mile OCI's. My oil of choice since my "wild and crazy" Triumph days(Spitfire, TR-4, TR-6) has been Castrol GTX dino, and always 10w-30. I have never really seen the sense in synthetic. I'll stick with success . . . Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1057638&rss=1 Sat, 11 Mar 2006 01:16 GMT Today, as I was changing my oil, I managed to strip the treads out of the drain. In thirty-five years of changing oil, this is a first for me. How can I fix that, short of a new oil pan? Can I up-size the plug and cut new threads? What size should I go for? Where can I get a larger plug? Or are there better alternatives? Thanks for your usual good help. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1056885&rss=1 Wed, 8 Mar 2006 22:16 GMT Spook, where can I get rar springs for a 940 SE? Dealer? Mine have pretty much had it, too. I replaced the Nivomats, but continue to have the "lean." Thanks. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1055846&rss=1 Sun, 5 Mar 2006 15:41 GMT Something unusual is going on with your car. My 175k 240 still has the original mufflers and pipes. Do you do a lot of short trips? Do you live in an area where the roads are heavily salted? I can understand if you are using "Muffler King" specials, but Bosal surely should give you years of service. Maybe you should get your next muffler from Volvo. Volvo mufflers are not all that bad cost-wise, and have a lifetime warantee (at least they used to -- I assume they still do). And in the process of installing your muffler, a mechanic used to looking underneath Volvos might give you some suggestion around the problem you are having. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1055832&rss=1 Sun, 5 Mar 2006 14:39 GMT Something unusual is going on with your car. My 175k 240 still has the original mufflers and pipes. Do you do a lot of short trips? Do you live in an area where the roads are heavily salted? I can understand if you are using "Muffler King" specials, but Bosal surely should give you years of service. Maybe you should get your next muffler from Volvo. Volvo mufflers are not all that bad cost-wise, and have a lifetime warantee (at least they used to -- I assume they still do). And in the process of installing your muffler, a mechanic used to looking underneath Volvos might give you some suggestion around the problem you are having. Allen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1055831&rss=1 Sun, 5 Mar 2006 14:39 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/