http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=10131 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:23 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:23 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. '88 240 DL I've been puzzling over this for a week now. When the accelerator is depressed, the car will bog and stall. Symptoms came on suddenly, NOT over time. Upon initial inspection, I found a large tear in the intake hose between the TB & MAF sensor. I ordered a new one and duct taped the old one to limp around 'til the new one got here. BUT, no change, same symptoms. I delve further and find a hole in a vacuum line which I repair. I then remove and clean the throttle body (it was dirty). TB sensor clicks when it should. Still no joy. I remove the ACV. It is stuck so I clean & replace. No joy. I remove the cap and it and the rotor are fine. The wires are 2 years old and show no sign of wear/arcing. I remove the plugs and they are pitch black, very rich mixture. I suspect this is traceable to various air leaks and OxySensor/computer compensation? I replace plugs with new. No joy. The only thing I have not done yet is inspect/clean out the breather box. The car has a rebuilt MAF sensor about 2 years old. The ACV opens about half way when the car is running but then stays there. There is continuity between all 3 terminals, approx 20 ohms btwn ctr and both ends & approx 40 ohms btwn both ends. Is it supposed to open/close rapidly or just open to a happy spot and then hang there? I have not seen it close on its own. If I manually close it, it will open. What am I missing? Any thoughts? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1186941&rss=1 Thu, 31 May 2007 15:24 GMT All due respect to Ryan_R but no, you do not need to remove the TB cover. Fan shroud, fan, lower rad. hose, aux. belts. I have found the radiator itself does NOT need to be removed. Remove the bolts (frt. & rear) and it pulls off. Make sure you CLEAN the gasket mating surfaces (on both the block & head) thoroughly before installing the new pump. You will need to push the pump up with a small jack or lever to seat the upper gasket to the head. If not cleaned & pushed up properly, it will be a constant source of small leaks. The aluminum head will corrode and pit and the gasket will never seal until you shave the head. Don't ask me how I know. Bob K '94 945T - 280K '88 244 - 255K '84 242 - 135K '94 F150 - 290K '89 560SL - 102K '68 GT500KR - who cares? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1156135&rss=1 Sat, 3 Feb 2007 23:56 GMT In a word, no. Not a '94. I have had my '94 945T since it had 40k mi. It now has almost 300K. I replaced the head gasket once about 200K (typical failure time for turbos, the high heat creates a situation where the head gasket fails after about 200K). Internally, the pistons are well protected by oil squirters which keep them cool. I could still see the factory hone marks on the cyl walls when I did the head. The bottom end is indestructable. So change the head gasket every 200k miles and you'll be fine. Bob K '94 945T - 280K '88 244 - 255K '84 242 - 135K '94 F150 - 290K '89 560SL - 102K '68 GT500KR - who cares? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1155868&rss=1 Sat, 3 Feb 2007 00:21 GMT OK, I'm a bonehead. Quite a while ago I posted that my '94 945T was bogging badly under acceleration. I tested & inspected just about every fuel & electrical component under the hood and although I got marginal improvements, it never really went away. Since I wasn't driving the car (my daughter had it at college) I kind of forgot about it and she just lived with it. Well, we've recently been commuting together and it was still doing it's trick so I decided to fix it or blow it up. Before I could start, she wanted to go to the store. It wouldn't start. It was a cool rainy day. I think problem with the secondary manifesting with the dampness. Sure enough, I see some nastiness on the coil tower. I remove & clean the coil with some WD-40 as well as squirt the HT lead (all wires are fairly new). Put it back together and it starts right up. NO MORE BOGGING EITHER! Don't know how I missed the dirty coil tower all this time. I was convinced it was something esoteric like the knock sensor or computer (I had already tried known good power stages, etc). So remember to check the basic stuff. It might just be that simple. Bob K '94 945T '88 244 '84 242 '94 F150 '89 560SL '68 GT500KR http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1155864&rss=1 Sat, 3 Feb 2007 00:07 GMT If you hear the sound when the sunroof is open, I have heard it everytime it rains for as long as I have had the car. I think it is the drains for the sunroof. When they get wet the water drips off the end of the drain making a sort of hollow sounding beat. Pretty sure it is endemic to the design. I've checked the drains to see if they were clogged but they are clear. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1125038&rss=1 Wed, 18 Oct 2006 22:59 GMT The likelyhood of the gauge being bad is very low. It is probably reading low due to the various leaks you are describing. FCP Groton will have the hose as will a local dealership. The dealership hose will fit, Scantech hoses from FCP are known to sometimes be cut too short. The oil leak you describe is problematic and needs to be addressed, it could indicate your breather box & associated hoses needs cleaning/replacing. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1123699&rss=1 Sat, 14 Oct 2006 12:09 GMT You are probably right about the horn dying. Common problem. 2 horns (1 high, 1 low) behind the front air dam on the driver's side. I think an Audi horn from a bone yard will fit. Fiamm's work but are pricey. You want the type that has a shell type horn, not the flat diaphragm like the originals. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1117551&rss=1 Sat, 23 Sep 2006 21:10 GMT Check your fuel pressures. One of the fuel pumps may not be functional. A bad tank pump may account for worse hesitation as the tank gets lower. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1117547&rss=1 Sat, 23 Sep 2006 21:05 GMT I see you state you bled the MC. Did you bench bleed it or bleed it in the car before you hooked up the lines? Air trapped in the MC may or may not work itself out over time. I always start with a thorough MC bench bleed before I hook up any lines. Switching to the lines, I highly recommend you bite the bullet and purchase a pressure bleeder (it is still cheaper than having a shop bleed them). I have always been suspicious of the ABS unit not getting a complete flush without constant pressure. I always see what looks to be froth after a short while when I flush things and suspect it lurks in the ABS unit. Did you start your line bleed at the wheel furthest from the MC? That would be RR for a RH drive vehicle, then LR, RF and lastly, LF. I will usually over-flush the system using a full qt. or more of fluid. The first bleed at the RR will take quite a bit of time since not only is it the longest run but you have a lot of stuff coming out of the ABS unit before you see clear fluid. I installed braided lines a few years ago and did feel a difference (AKA stiffer feel). But it was not a BIG difference and I doubt it would eliminate a 3" pedal. It sounds like you still have some air in the system. Hope this helps. Let us know how it turns out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1117075&rss=1 Fri, 22 Sep 2006 10:59 GMT Bad exhaust valves at that amount of mileage is not uncommon in a turbo. Don't go the "lap the old ones in" route since you will remove the Stellite facing on the exhaust valves (probably gone anyway if the valves are pitted). The only permanent fixes are a low mileage replacement head (getting harder to find), or a valve job. The turbo heads are different from non-turbos because of the addition of the aforementioned Stellite facing on the exhaust valves to deal with the higher temps. You are reaching the end of the life span of the head gasket too at around 200K so all around, removing the head is a good idea. What you use to put in its place is up to you. Finding a good turbo head at a junker can be hit or miss and you need to know what you are looking for. I refer you to Tom's page http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/goodaluminum it is an educational lesson in what to look for and why. I replaced the valves and rubber on my head & recut the valve seats. The cylinder walls still showed the factory hone marks. Compression came back up and a leak-down test showed tight cylinders. Oil consumption dropped to zero. Sucker is good for another 200k. Shortcuts will decrease the life expectancy of the "fix". Good luck. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1113044&rss=1 Sat, 9 Sep 2006 10:44 GMT SOP for brake bleeds is to start at the wheel furthest from the Master Cylinder. That would be the RR wheel for a LH drive car. Then work your way, in order, (LR-RF-LF)to the closest wheel. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1111301&rss=1 Sun, 3 Sep 2006 11:56 GMT Your mechanic is right about the 200k mark for engine work, more specifically, head work. The higher heat generated by the turbo cars and the metal expansion/contraction associated with it breaks down the head gasket by about 200K. Additionally, it breaks down the valve stem seals and lifter bumpers. All around, you are looking at a complete head/valve job at that time (make sure the shop replaces the exhaust valves with Stellite faced valves, they are twice as expensive but needed for the high heat). Happily, once you do that, all oil consumption should disappear (providing your turbo isn't leaky) and you are good to go for another 200k. At least that is how it worked out for me. When I had the head off, I could still clearly see the factory hone marks on the cylinder walls. Compression and leak-down pressures were all excellent after the headwork. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1104565&rss=1 Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:57 GMT FCP Groton -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1104563&rss=1 Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:39 GMT Check the vacuum lines running to the charcoal canister as well as the canister and associated components (check valve). If the canister or its associated components are not sound, that could be the source of the smell. The canister is supposed to absorb any fumes present after the engine is turned off and then release them back into the throttle body/intake once the engine is started via vacuum. If there is a leak in the system (3 vacuum lines, canister & check valve) the evaporating fumes could escape into the engine compartment and then be sucked into the cabin when the engine is started. Good luck. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1100708&rss=1 Mon, 31 Jul 2006 21:36 GMT That solved it! Thanks all. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1099339&rss=1 Thu, 27 Jul 2006 08:52 GMT I traced the offending circuit to the windows/seat heaters tap. At least I have my directionals back. No windows is a drag though. Disconnecting all the plugs at the master window switch in the driver's armrest had no effect so it isn't a window motor. When I have more time, I'll go after the seat heater connectors under the seats. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098716&rss=1 Tue, 25 Jul 2006 12:44 GMT Woe is me. '94 945 Daughter goes off to UGA and the batt dies on her (not sure why yet). She calls and says a friend is coming over to her apt. to jump the car. Sounds like a plan. Bozo friend hooks up the jumper cables backwards (+ to -). Many sparks. This initiates another call to dad. I tell her what it sounds like and tell her to sit tight and I'll appear the next morning, which I do. I jump it and it starts fine but various systems do not work. I start checking fuses and find seven of them blown. I start replacing them and everything seems fine until I get to fuse #9. It blows as soon as I turn the key. Fuse #9 controls the turn signals, belt reminder, heated seats, windows, etc. A few important systems to say the least. I pulled the relay/fuse rack and nothing stands out (I even pulled apart each relay and looked inside them but nothing is visible). Next plan is to pull the 3 wires connected to fuse #9 and reattach each until the offending circuit blows the fuse again. That won't happen 'til tomorrow so if anyone has any insights to my dilemma, please feel free to share. Thanks in advance... -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098628&rss=1 Tue, 25 Jul 2006 00:58 GMT It could also be a failing fuel pump. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098378&rss=1 Mon, 24 Jul 2006 12:04 GMT Disconnect the MAF and then try to start it, see if there is a difference. The crank position sensor wire insulation may be corroded allowing moisture in, check it out by feeling the wire, you will notice it right away if there is a problem. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098095&rss=1 Sun, 23 Jul 2006 11:28 GMT Look to replace all the sensors in the head if you go the repair route. Mine overheated and I have been having drivability issues that, I think, are traceable to erratic sensors that may have been heat damaged. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098093&rss=1 Sun, 23 Jul 2006 11:21 GMT Check the FAQ's for more detailed info but if you find an "L block" that is the way to go. It has oil squirters under the pistons to cool them down, very nice in a turbo. Check the mileage before you buy, it will probably need a head gasket around 200k miles. Consider a Dawes Device to decrease the turbo lag (with a corresponding decrease in fuel economy). Very tough engine, should last the life of any car if it is maintained. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098090&rss=1 Sun, 23 Jul 2006 11:14 GMT Spook is right pointing out the engine mounts, I would add the tranny mount and the driveshaft center carrier bearing donut to the list. Worn engine mounts can impact the tranny mount & vice-versa. Poor braking (shimmy & shake in the front end) is usually a result of incorrect brake pad seating procedures -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1089136&rss=1 Thu, 22 Jun 2006 11:56 GMT I own a '94 940 Turbo Wagon and wouldn't trade it for most of what is out there. Insanely reliable (235,000 mi. and counting), the power train is legendary being the same as the 240, only better (internal engine improvements). Turbos suffer from decreased mileage #'s because of the turbo and lack of a locking torque converter but will last over 200K when they will probably need a new head gasket. The insides are refined compared to the 240. The car definitely needs an IPD suspension upgrade (sway bars to decrease body roll) and then is very well behaved. I have resoldered all the relays in the car and have eliminated the electrical gremlins some owners have endured. With maint. records, buy it. W/o records, get it inspected by a Volvo mechanic and then buy it. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1089028&rss=1 Wed, 21 Jun 2006 23:41 GMT I wish I could remember where I got it from, I'll scrounge around the shop and see if I can scare up the box but I don't hold out much hope. I will look for markings on the old MC to see if that helps. I do believe it was a NEW unit, I don't buy "rebuilt" when it comes to brake parts. -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1087534&rss=1 Fri, 16 Jun 2006 20:20 GMT Got a NEW MCyl from NAPA, cost $83+ w/tax but I had it the next day. FCP would have been cheaper by $10 including the shipping but I needed it ASAP so paid the local premium which was less than having Nick overnight it. Nice hard pedal after I R&R'd it and bled the system. We'll see how long it lasts. Disassembled the old one but saw nothing that grabbed me by the throat on the bore surface. Maybe a bad seal. Anyone have a source for the bleed valve dust seals? Mine are so old they crumbled as I took them off. Thanks all... -- Bob K http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1087342&rss=1 Fri, 16 Jun 2006 02:19 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/