Volvo: Brickboard INTROS Forum

Hi, new guy, old Volvo, long post (more of a novella really) -posted by- someday

Thu, 24 Apr 2008 16:49 GMT

1981 Volvo 240, B21FMPG (I think), K-Jet, M46%0D%0ACall me someday. Last year my Nixon-era '71 Cadillac dropped its driveshaft while I was trying to rock it out of a snowbank. It had lots of other issues and burned gas like it never heard of OPEC, so instead of paying to have it towed to a shop knowing they'd never be able to get parts, I sold it to a junkyard for $125. Not bad, considering I paid $1350 for it in 1997 and drove the hell out of it, sometimes with 7 or 8 souls aboard. May she rust in peace. Maybe some bit of it will end up in someone's restoration and it will live on after a fashion.%0D%0A%0D%0AThen began the search for a new ride. I watched CraigsList looking for something older and interesting, you know, something that doesn't look exactly like every other Camry/Accord/Cavalier on the road. Something I could wrench on myself. I almost bought a '76 BMW 2002 (neat car!) but when I consulted the '02 forum they told me that if I drove it on salty winter roads it would disintegrate within a year, maybe two. Scratch that. Then I spotted an ad for an '81 Volvo two-door with some rust and 200,??? miles on it. (Broken odometer.) Test drove it, looked for major problems, found none, and drove it home for $600. Should have had it inspected by a pro, but that's water under the bridge.%0D%0A%0D%0ASo now I'm driving this car (240 dl? 242? I don't even know the nomenclature), titled, taxed, registered, and insured. The temp guage didn't budge and the heater didn't work, so with the help of this forum I replaced the thermostat without having to drain the coolant. Immediately the temp guage rose to 9 o'clock and held steady, but clouds of sweet-smelling vapor began to issue from under the dash, fogging up the windows, and the passenger-side carpet got soaked with slippery green liquid. Alas, the dreaded heater core! I ran a couple of doses of Bar's Leaks through the cooling system, and it seems to have stopped the leak, but I know it's just a temporary fix.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe steering pulled to the left, so I tried to adjust the power steering balance, but I guess I screwed it up because when I started the car, the steering jumped to full right lock. So I removed the PS belt and now I'm running with manual steering, which I kind of like. It feels tight and I could use the upper-body training. The boots on the rack were torn and someone had attempted to repair them with duct tape, so I just cut them off. What happens without these?%0D%0A%0D%0AThe brake failure light kept coming on, but when I topped up the resevoir with Dot 4 it would go out again. Eventually, I found the leak. You guessed it: the switch on the brake junction box. When I consulted this forum and learned that the whole unit must be replaced and the entire system bled, I took a shortcut and removed the switch, replacing it with a proper diameter and thread metric bolt. Stopped the leak. I know this defeats a potentially life saving feature, but right now I'm so broke I can't even pay attention. The pedal was still soft, so I tried to bleed the system, but all I had was myself and the emergency jack, which doesn't even fit the jack points on the chassis. (Must be from a different model.) Of course I broke two bleeder screws and got Dot 4 all over the place. Then I noticed that if I got on the pedal hard, the car would stop, but if I tried to apply it smooth and gentle-like, it would sink right to the floor with no desired effect. Classic master cylinder failure symptoms, right? Picked up an A1 Cardone rebuilt MC at O'Reilly's for $25, bench bled it, installed it, and then removed each front wheel and pushed the pads back in to push any air back up through the MC. Now the pedal is as firm as [insert sexual reference here]. Much better. Intermittent brake failure is scary as hell. I was literally driving with one hand on the e-brake and had to use it more than once. By the way, I grounded the brake warning switch wire to my plug-bolt using the rubber boot, so whenever I drive, the brake failure warning light glares at me to remind me of my half-assed repair.%0D%0A%0D%0AOther than that, the car seems to run well. Starts eaily, idles a little rough, accelerates nicely through all the gears, even the OD works, after I fixed the wiring. Out on the freeway I put it in 4th and pressed the button, the OD light came on, and I could hear and feel the OD kick in. I like the big clock, (keeps good time) but a stick-shift with no tach? What's that about? I think I'm leaking a little oil, probably because of crankcase overpressure. I'd like to clean the flame trap, but I understand it's hidden like the Lost Ark%0D%0Ain that warehouse full of crates. I want a relocation kit.%0D%0A%0D%0AEnough for now. There's a shop here in Indy that says they know Volvos and they'll do a safety and maintenance inspection for $80. Worth it?%0D%0A%0D%0AMy thanks to anyone who actually read this. %0D%0ASincerely,%0D%0Asomeday%0D%0A%0D%0AI'll post pics if can figure out how.%0D%0A

Hi, new guy, old Volvo, long post (more of a novella really) -posted by- Wiglaf

Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:51 GMT

%0D%0A%0D%0AKinda makes me want to tear up a little. A man and his Volvo....nothing like it. You got a great post here, and are headed for lots of fun....%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck with the flame trap. The fix is worth the effort.%0D%0A%0D%0AWiglaf%0D%0A%0D%0A87 245%0D%0A95 850%0D%0A01 XC70

Restoration of 1996 850 Sedan -posted by- Denam

Fri, 4 Apr 2008 07:18 GMT

I am in the process of "restoring" a 1996 850 that got hit in the front and required repairs in a body shop. The repair has now been completed and I would like to make it mechanically sound and reliable for my son to use to go to college 30 miles each day.I am in the process of replacing the front rotors and pads and would like to know the recommended things to do, including how to maximise mpg?

93' Volvo 240 -posted by- ChrisAD

Tue, 1 Apr 2008 02:31 GMT

Hello All,%0D%0AI just bought a 1993 Volvo 240 sedan, It has just over 107,000 miles which i understand is pretty low for these cars. It's in pretty nice condition wise, It's black on a tan interior. The only issues i have with it is the sound system sucks beyond all belief which will soon be changed...lol. Anyway, I drove it home from this guy i bought it from garage, parked it in my driveway and washed, waxed and detailed it. I then went to start it and go out for a drive and it refused to start. All the warning lights would come on and it would refuse to start. I'm not that familiar with these types of cars but they guy i bought it from specializes in them so he sent a flatbed to pick it up and he's fixing it and i should have it back tomorrow hopefully. I'm looking forward to making it my own and going to some of these volvo gatherings.. I'm from the philly area so i'm pretty centrally located. %0D%0A ~Chris DeSilva

Electical Problem -posted by- Piggy

Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:26 GMT

My Left Stop Light was burned out.%0D%0AReplaced bulb & fuse light still did not work.%0D%0ARelized back window light out.%0D%0AReplaced bulb then left stop light worked.%0D%0Amonths later left stop light out replaced bulb & fuse but light did not work%0D%0Aneed help!!!!!!!

Hello All! -posted by- azmotoryder

Wed, 20 Feb 2008 04:09 GMT

I am new to this board. I don't own a Volvo, but my g/f's daughter has one that I sometimes wrench on. I look forward to sharing what little I know about cars with you guys. I also own a H-D Sportster 883, been riding motorcycles for 26 years.%0D%0A%0D%0ADerek

Hello All! -posted by- xmopar

Wed, 20 Feb 2008 06:26 GMT

Welcome!%0A--%0A'83 245 M46, '86 245 auto

Hello All! -posted by- azmotoryder

Thu, 21 Feb 2008 23:55 GMT

Thanks!

1992 960 -posted by- xmopar

Wed, 20 Feb 2008 06:32 GMT

Welcome. I'm not familiar with the 960. Go to "forum home" from the homepage or use the "select shortcut" in the upper right corner and go to "rear wheel drive" and post your question under the "900" tab.%0D%0A--%0D%0A'83 245 M46, '86 245 auto

1992 960 -posted by- hammerv960

Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:01 GMT

Bought this car exceedingly clean 5 months ago. Has always needed to be given the gas a little after start to keep her running then runs and idles fine. Lately it has a really hard time with cold starts with excessive stumbling at idle then she will run fine after warmup with intermittent times of stumbling and complete loss of power (engine stays running) then it finds itself and starts running great again. The other day my wife was driving it and the car started to stumble with loss of power. She tried to drive it home and smoke came from under the dash that smelled like a cigar. She parked the car and hitched home. When I went to recover the car it started right up and ran perfectly home. I have since then taken the dash apart looking for burnt wires and cannot find anything. Would anyone guess these problems are related? Or help with the separate issues? Thanks. ( I"ve since this note put dry gas and fuel injector cleaner in tank)

V70 2001 24T Replacing Headlamp -posted by- CurtDose

Mon, 24 Dec 2007 21:49 GMT

Brian's instructions (below) really helped me replace the driver's headlight assembly on my 2001 V70 24T wagon, but there were differences with my car that you should know if you're doing this.%0D%0A%0D%0A1. I would twist and remove only the far-outside, blinker connector. The other two are easier to remove and install when the headlight assembly is out of the car.%0D%0A2. The headlamp assembly is held by 4 bolts. Two at the top, one at the outside under the bumper and plastic trim (as described), and an additional one on the inside edge of the assembly that you have to shift the bumper down to get to. You can also remove the two bolts at the bottom holding the wiper motor to make removal easier. Take off the headlight wiper first -raise cap and remove nut.%0D%0A3. You only need to loosen and tap in the wheelwell torx screw on the side you are replacing. Then pry out the bumper center strips on both sides (not the middle), and remove the two bumper bolts. Also remove the six plastic retainers at the top center of the grill. Now you can work the bumper on the side you want forward and down to expose the headlight inner bolt& lower wiper moter bolts. Take out the two torx screws on the now-exposed outside plastic trim. Then pull the plastic out and use a 10mm wrench to take out the outside bolt.%0D%0A4. Don't forget to transfer the rubber surround at the top of the headlight assembly to the new assembly when swapping out. (I forgot and had to do the whole procedure again - only takes about 15 minutes with practice!).%0D%0A5. Put on lower clips before installing the new assembly, then put on the outside blinker connector in the car. This is a tight squeeze on the driver's side. Waterpump plyers helped me do the final turn to lock it in.%0D%0A%0D%0AThis is not hard with this procedure. Don't be afraid to do it yourself. Not sure why mine is different - maybe US?, maybe wipers?%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck. Curt - USA (Merry Christmas)%0D%0A------------------------------------------------------------------ %0D%0Afrom Brian Jackson (UK):%0D%0A%0D%0AV70 2001 Replacing Headlamp.%0D%0A%0D%0AThere are three electrical connections to the headlamp assembly each retained by a wire clip.%0D%0ARemove each of these clips and pull out the plugs.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe headlamp assembly is held by just three bolts:%0D%0A%0D%0ATwo at the top that connects the unit to the radiator support cross member.%0D%0ARemove these bolts.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe third bolt is at the lower outer edge of the unit and it connected to the edge of the wing (fender). %0D%0ATo gain access to this bolt you must dislodge the front bumper.%0D%0A%0D%0ATo dislodge front bumper.%0D%0A%0D%0ANote that this must be done at both sides of the car%0D%0A%0D%0ALooking at the inner front of the wheel arches locate the single TORX headed screw.%0D%0AUnscrew for about 5mm them tap in. This will release the edge of the bumper from the wheel arch. Now using some gentle hand force lift the released edge of the bumper and pull outwards, this will release the upper edge of the bumper.%0D%0A%0D%0AThere are just two main retaining bolts for the bumper. They are accessed from the front of the car by unclipping the rounded plastic strip that is in the middle of the bumper. (Do this by inserting a thin wide metal edged tool).%0D%0A%0D%0ARemove the two retaining bolts.%0D%0A%0D%0AWith a little heaving it should be possible to drop and tilt the bumper a little.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou will now find that the head of the third headlamp retaining bolt is still obscured by a plastic clip assembly. Remove the two self-taping screws that locate this clip and gently pull the clip outwards. Now using a C spanner you should be able to remove the third bolt.%0D%0A%0D%0ANow you should be able to jiggle and remove the headlamp.%0D%0A%0D%0ANow reverse the whole procedure to fit the new headlamp.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck. %0D%0ABrian Jackson (UK)%0D%0A

New Volvo owner, not new Volvo -posted by- whynotthinkwhynot

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:06 GMT

I recently came into possession of an 87 Volvo 740 Turbo diesel. The interior is typical old Volvo- the vinyl peeling off the doors at the top, and the headliner is long gone. Other than that, the body is in great shape. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe engine is something else though. I haven't worked on it yet, but it's been sitting for 4 years. The starter is missing a bolt, so I can't really start it right now until I replace the bolt. I don't know anything about this vehicle at the moment, and haven't even started working on it. %0D%0A%0D%0AI'll be asking questions frequently because I don't know much about diesels at all. I'm fairly sure I'll have to at least remove the fuel tank and drain it before I can get it started. %0D%0A%0D%0AI look forward to meeting everyone and discussing Volvos! %0D%0A%0D%0AAlex

Car question? -posted by- Becca30

Tue, 18 Dec 2007 17:26 GMT

My 1988 240 DL Volvo wagon has been cutting off on me at every stop. It starts and idles irradically like it wants to cut off but doesn't and then eventually will while sitting idling. Also, sometimes after I drive it through the neighborhood and it's running like it wants to cut off and then make a stop and turn the car off for a few minutes and restart, it runs fine. Any clues? I just bought the car in August and it's been running fine until the past month or so. Consequently, I do not have a mechanic. However, I have owned several Volvos so I have a clue about them but this....I don't know. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks to anyone who has any suggestions or ideas of the problem.%0D%0A%0D%0AStranded in Norfolk, VA,%0D%0A%0D%0ABecca

740 - Windshield Wiper Problems - Help!! -posted by- JTprice86

Sun, 16 Dec 2007 05:25 GMT

Other day started up 1990 740. Drivers side windshield wiper didn't budge. The passenger wiper still worked as usual. The next day, the passenger wiper stopped working. Moves up about and inch very sluggishly and then drops down again. %0D%0A%0D%0AI don't have a clue what to do. I've got a Chilton but I'm not sure where to even look to inspect the windshield wiper motor, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. As a college student I'd prefer not to rush directly to a service station. %0D%0A%0D%0ANote: Drivers side wiper once lifted into upright position wobbles at the base, which never occurred before. Not sure if this explains affect on the other wiper though. Also it is about 20 F outside where the car is parked, though this has never had an affect on the wipers before. %0D%0A%0D%0A

122s Sedan Sill or Rocker Panel Drain Holes -posted by- volvorine

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:55 GMT

I'm in the process of cleaning up the interior of a 1966 Volvo 122s 2-door sedan. I recently purchase this car and during the process of cleaning up the interior, I found a lot of things that needed cleaning. Anyways, I was thinking of using pressurized water to clean the insides of the doors and rocker panel or sills. I know that the doors have holes to allow water to drain. Do the rocker panels have drain holes? I don't want to introduce water into the rocker panels to promote rust. In the end, I plan to use Eastwood's Heavy Anti-Rust in these hidden compartments to hopefully prevent future rust formation.

1980 244 No Start -posted by- rexall1

Sat, 17 Nov 2007 21:15 GMT

Well i never should have bought this one but....its been reliable for the last%0D%0A8 months.%0D%0ASo anyway i drive it 18 miles shut it off comeback 5 minutes later.No start not even a small inclination to start.%0D%0Ahad to have it towed.%0D%0AIt has good spark.Odd thing in my troubleshooting process is i cleaned the contacts on the coil and ballast resistor and re-attached the wires.Then try to start but no fuel pump sound.I clean some more on the ballast resistor contacts and nowthe fuel pump runs continuously in the 2 position whereas before only ran for a few seconds if the engine failed to start.%0D%0AI put ohm meter on the ballast resistor and got 1.05 ohms.%0D%0AMy guess is that the ignition barrel (even though tight)may be on the fritz.%0D%0AI used to see the Lamda Lambda light on dash come on when i turned key on.%0D%0ANow nothing.%0D%0AAnybody have 2 cents to lend me.

Volvo Mechanic in Miami FL -posted by- MGreenhaus

Mon, 12 Nov 2007 18:41 GMT

I am looking for a good mechanic for my 1996 Volvo 850. Can nayone recommend someone?

Strange Problem with electrical -posted by- Cnjsommers

Fri, 24 Aug 2007 04:48 GMT

Well Hello,%0D%0AI am a new member and owner of a 2000 S80 and well out of noware the controls on the stering wheel dont work the volume the cruse control the turning signals, and the windsheild wiper fluid. I am hoping this is just a fuse that went bad but how do I know? anyone ever had this happen? were is the fuse box? I am in a pickle because I am moving to another state in 3 days and need to at least be able to signal when I am changing lanes please help...%0D%0A%0D%0Athe emergancy lites do work so it has to be somthing in the stering colom itself%0D%0A%0D%0Acory

Strange Problem with electrical -posted by- Snag

Tue, 18 Sep 2007 02:06 GMT

Back in the old days before signal lights, a driver would use his left arm to signal his intentions. I'm sure your state law permits you to signal with your left arm in the following manner if your electrical signals are inoperative. %0D%0A "Left turn" extend your left arm straight out the drivers window parallel to the ground.%0D%0A "Right turn" again left arm out drivers arm bent 90 degrees upward at the elbow.%0D%0A "Stopping or slowing" with the left arm out the drivers window again this time 90 degree bend at the elbow towards the ground and palm and fingers of the hand open flat and facing the rear of your vehicle.%0D%0A The above signals should get you to where you have to go, sorry can't help with the electrical problems. %0D%0A The only catch with above is that you can't be towing a trailer as then you would need mechanical or electrical signals in most jurisdictions.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood Luck, Bruce%0D%0A%0D%0A

hello everybody! -posted by- lincolnmania

Fri, 31 Aug 2007 16:30 GMT

hey i'm scott.....i live in central pa, i have a 1987 760 wagon with a converse 5.0 conversion. i am a self employed auto mechanic, i work mostly on lincoln town cars, ford crown victorias, mercury grand marquis, and lincoln mark7's %0D%0Athe volvo is part of my toy collection, i also have a modified 5.0 ho powered 1986 lincoln town car, a 5.0 ho converted 1989 crown victoria, and a 4.6 powered 1995 thunderbird. check out my forums at www.grandmarq.net%0D%0Anice place you guys got here!%0D%0Ascott

Hello from frozen New England -posted by- spudtu

Sat, 24 Feb 2007 05:42 GMT

I am a recidivist Volvo owner, to the dismay of my brothers, in-laws and mother. Presently I have all Volvos I now or ever owned in the yard. All 240 wagons. An 81 (parts car, eviscerated brakes), an 88 (pretty good condition, currently undergoing a brake-letting procedure) and a 79 (painted orange 11 years ago, awaiting a steering rack transplant). (Note to self: please schedule all future automotive procedures on a 3-season basis).%0D%0A%0D%0AExcept for about a year when more biological illnesses of a mother and a dog diverted my resources, I have been driving and repairing Volvo wagons since 1991. In the 15 yearts prior to that, I trained myself on repairs of various Chryslers and Chevrolets.%0D%0A%0D%0AI can't imagine what I will do if the world runs out of restorable 240s. I would have to surrender to the take-it-to-the-shop culture. My mother owns an 850, but the engine compartment is packed so tight, and merely replacing brake pads seems unnecessarily complicated. Does anybody (outside a commercial shop) actually work on those things?%0D%0A%0D%0AHowever, the concern which drove me to introduce myself concerns brake-bleeding woes on the 88 and if I can't seem to satiate my thirst for knowledge in the FAQs or searching posts, you may see my first real post soon.%0D%0A%0D%0AAbsolutely am thrilled to have found this association of like-minded fools. The pictures are really great, too.%0D%0A%0D%0ADavid

Hello....new to RWD not to Volvo -posted by- viperman135

Sun, 5 Aug 2007 15:55 GMT

%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AI hope those pics work. Hi guys I just picked up a 1989 240DL a few weeks ago. I was looking for a project/beater car. Just spent the last couple of weeks fixing up the suspension. All the shocks and rear bushings were shot. I borrowed the tool to press out the big bushings in the axle and took the rest to my buddies machine shop and pressed them out. Looks like there is a lot of knowledge on this board. With time I hope to contribute as I learn more about this car.

howdy! -posted by- utopiantheory

Wed, 1 Aug 2007 05:08 GMT

hello guys. this is one helpful site for volvo owners like me, so i dropped by to say hi here at the forums. but it seems that there are only a few forum posters here. %0D%0A%0D%0A__________________________________________________________________________________%0D%0A%0D%0Aweaving the volvo dream with volvo parts.

New: here, to driving and my '84 240. -posted by- oddharmonic

Wed, 18 Jul 2007 03:34 GMT

I'm learning to drive as an adult and recently purchased my first car, a 1984 240 GL sedan with 180k miles on it. I'm not new to auto maintenance thanks to a family that bonds over that sort of thing, but I'm still learning my way around Dallas.%0D%0A%0D%0AI hope to post more after my Bentley manual arrives and I start fixing the minor things I'm confident I can fix, like the driver's side door handle not opening from the outside.%0D%0A%0D%0AGlad to meet y'all! %0D%0A%0D%0AMelissa

No sound from my radio -posted by- Wine Guy

Fri, 29 Jun 2007 02:19 GMT

I have a 1999 V70 T5 with the SC-816 radio.%0D%0A%0D%0AI just replaced my battery and shortly afterward, my radio lost its sound. It seems to be otherwise working fine (for example, if I put in a CD, the display indicates it is running fine), just no sound coming out of the speakers.%0D%0A%0D%0AOne strange thing though: when I scan to tune in a radio station, the display just runs through all the station numbers without stopping. Seems like it's not getting a signal?%0D%0A%0D%0AAnyone have any idea what might be the answer here?

May 28 Message -posted by- 5Volvos

Tue, 29 May 2007 16:55 GMT

Hello! %0D%0AI am very new at this and cannot find the message I posted yesterday. Where do I find it? Thanks 5volvos.

May 28 Message -posted by- KlausC

Thu, 31 May 2007 23:42 GMT

You can use the search feature at the top of the page with your pseudoname, or go into your profile and list all of your posts.

May 28 Message -posted by- Jorrell

Tue, 29 May 2007 23:26 GMT

Your message is in the TOOLBOX forum off the main page, it should have been posted to the 940 or 960 forum. Try re-posting, sorry, I don't have a technical answer for you beyond checking the fuses.%0D%0A%0D%0Ajorrell%0D%0A%0A--%0A92 245 245K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently close to running again!

Vintage Volvo needed for commercial in Los Angeles!! -posted by- MrVintageMachine

Thu, 3 May 2007 20:32 GMT

Greetings!,%0D%0A %0D%0AI obtain classics for films, videos, photo shoots,%0D%0Aetc.%0D%0A %0D%0AI need to find a '60€™s / €˜70€™s Import for a commercial shooting next week sometime between May 8 and 11. Looking for something like a SAAB or VOLVO. If you have this or something similar, please let me know.%0D%0A %0D%0AThe shoot will be in Los Angeles. %0D%0A %0D%0AI need to get a hold of someone very soon, so I can%0D%0Abook the car for the shoot. And..yes there is good%0D%0Apay. I don't deal with free shoots. %0D%0A %0D%0ATo give you a quick backrground of who I am:%0D%0AFor the past 13 years i have organized a classic car show every year called the Blessing of the Cars in Los Angeles. I have been%0D%0Adealing with picture vehicles for about 8 years now.%0D%0AWhat's different about me is that I am always on set%0D%0Awith the cars I hire. I do this to make sure the%0D%0Acars aren't damaged, or messed with by those who%0D%0Adon't understand the classic car world.%0D%0A%0D%0ASome of the past shoots I've booked cars for%0D%0Ainclude: N'SYNC music video, Mariah Carrie music%0D%0Avideo, AT&T commercials, MTV Becoming, Verizon ad,%0D%0ANelly video, Annie Liebowitz for Vanity Fair,%0D%0AChristina Aguilara album shots, Rosario Dawson for Britsh GQ, .Old Spice ad, and much more.%0D%0A %0D%0AYou can email me pictures of cars to hotrodsquirrell@yahoo.com. Please be%0D%0Asure to have interior shots as well. Phone calls, anytime%0D%0A(day or night), are ok too.%0D%0A %0D%0AFeel free to forward this to whomever you think%0D%0Acan help.%0D%0A %0D%0AThank you very much,%0D%0AGabriel Baltierra%0D%0A213/369.0281%0D%0Ahotrodsquirrell@yahoo.com%0D%0A

Vintage Volvo needed for commercial in Los Angeles!! -posted by- Redwood Chair

Sun, 6 May 2007 01:56 GMT

Contact So Cal VCOA%0A--%0A69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL

Volvo 142S 1969 Air filter -posted by- Alison Rose

Sat, 28 Apr 2007 06:52 GMT

Iwould like to get a reusable air filter for my 1969 142s, It has twin SU Carbs and a rectangular air box to house the filter - any ideas for suppliers? The K & N style filter is to deep for the air box. The dimmensions ae 322 x 123 30mm.%0D%0AThank you%0D%0AAlison Rose

Volvo 142S 1969 Air filter -posted by- jimjmorris

Tue, 1 May 2007 20:07 GMT

If you don't mind removing the airbox entirely, you can switch to individual, per carb K&N filters, similar to what 1800/122/early 140 models used. Check ipd, other suspects, they are avilable for around $40 each I think.%0D%0A%0D%0AJim

Volvo 142S 1969 Air filter -posted by- Serpent6

Sun, 29 Apr 2007 00:21 GMT

I'm not familiar with any other OEM style re-usable filters besides K&N for your model, but over the years I've put 3 different types of reusable filters on my 1970 142S (Mine has twin Strombergs with a similar box):%0D%0A%0D%0A1. The horizontal K&N box filter I had did seem tighter than the OEM, but fit if pressed down with some force. If it is still just a hair too tight, you could probably shave a little of the thick rubber on the bottom of the filter.%0D%0A%0D%0A2. Another option I tried was coverting to a cold-air box. Simply remove the horizontal filter and replace the existing air intake with a flexible intake pipe. Attach an Autozone style reusable cone filter at the end and you've got a simple cold air intake (lots of articles on this in the archives).%0D%0A%0D%0A3. My last and favorite installation was to purchase two round K&N filter assemblies designed specifically for my carburetor and bolt them directly to the carburetor. This setup is very similar to the pre-1969 Volvo 142S model. I liked this one best because the chrome housing gave the engine a handsome clean appearance and seemed to produce a little more power (and noise). A similar kit for SU carburetors is available through IPD. These round filters provide good air flow and should last for the life of the car.%0D%0A%0D%0AOptions #2 and #3 significantly alter the appearance of the OEM setup, and may affect engine warm-up to some degree. I live in the South and my old air intake was cracked, missing parts, and noisy, so I didn't mind ditching it.%0D%0A%0D%0ABest of luck!

New Here -posted by- SergeantStedanko

Thu, 12 Apr 2007 23:23 GMT

Hi all,%0D%0A%0D%0AI bought a 1968 142S last fall and I'm heavily in the middle of getting it running well. With the help of a local and kind Volvo genius it's running like a top. I'll be getting it inspected soon and will start on the body work. There is some rust around the rear fenders and I'm currently trying to source a right front fender, and after that it'll be looking great. I've now got all the missing trim I needed.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnyway, I live in Calgary, Canada and am happy to have found this board.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks.

142`s-great cars! -posted by- rancher rick

Tue, 17 Apr 2007 17:17 GMT

Hi,%0D%0A Had several 140 series cars over the years, most were excellent. My last one, a 71 142S, I sold a few years back to a young guy in Calgary. It is a bright yellow, I think it was called Aztec Gold at the time, can`t miss it!%0D%0A Good luck with the project. BTW, who is the Volvo genius in Calgary?%0D%0A Cheers!%0D%0A Rich, High River.

142`s-great cars! -posted by- SergeantStedanko

Tue, 17 Apr 2007 17:42 GMT

Hi Rich,%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for the comment. I'll move my reply to the 142S forum.%0D%0A%0D%0ASS

New Here -posted by- Redwood Chair

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 05:44 GMT

Sarge,%0D%0AWelcome;%0D%0AWe need some more 140-160 people.%0D%0APost on the 140-160 board.%0D%0AKen%0A--%0A69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL

'93 940 IAC -posted by- Big Ed Kahuna

Mon, 9 Apr 2007 22:28 GMT

Greetings. I own a '93 940 that appears to have an IDLE AIR CONTROL valve issue according to the little black OBD box; specifically, the engine simply stalls out running down the road, but will always re-start. The OBD flashes 2- 2-3. CHILTONS shows a 3 pin connector with the proper resistance values of 10-11 ohms; mine has a 2 pin connector with a resistance value of 4.2 ohms. Anyone have any ideas as to what the correct value is for the 2 pin? Thanks.

940 don't start -posted by- bcarnaval

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:06 GMT

Hi,%0D%0AI have a volvo 940 1994 turbo and sometimes it won't start. If I try the next day, it start on the first try. May be it's something like the gas filter? Is there someone had the same problem.%0D%0A%0D%0AI hope I'm clear because I don't speak english very well.%0D%0A%0D%0AThank's%0D%0A%0D%0ARichard%0D%0A%0D%0A

940 don't start -posted by- Shifted

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 14:10 GMT

Read the information from the FAQ's in the link below, chances are it will help you solve your problem...%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm#Start_or_Stall_Problems%0D%0A%0D%0AShifted%0A--%0A--------1993 945 GLT 74,000--------1973 Suzuki Jimny 'Brute' 61,000--------

Another Californian -posted by- equium

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 20:20 GMT

Hey there. I just bought an '88 240 GL Sedan with a 4cyl. I'm excited to have a new vehicle to commute in; and to "fix" up with my son. I look forward to chatting with the experts on this site.%0D%0Adanny

Another Californian -posted by- Redwood Chair

Sat, 24 Mar 2007 00:21 GMT

Welcome,%0D%0ADrop by the 200 board and ask the techs about timing %0D%0Abelt change intervals,and preventative maintence.%0D%0ADo you have any repair history for the car?%0D%0AKen%0A--%0A69-145-S ; 71-145-S ; 72-145-E ; 72-1800-ES ; 87-245-DL

Another Californian -posted by- equium

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 20:38 GMT

I do have some repair history, but not much. The "biggies" i see were a CAT replacement and the MAF Replacement. It just passed smog with flying colors. Right now, my priorities are a tune up, and some TLC. My drivers seat is internally broken. It looks like a backseat passenger used the headrest to pull themselves up and really tore it up. %0A--%0A1988 240 GL Sedan 4Cyl.

240 Tailights - bulb failure relay? -posted by- B.C.

Mon, 26 Mar 2007 11:37 GMT

Is your post also in the RWD Forum? It is of a technical nature more than an introductory post.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe tail lights are on the BFWS, unlike the front corner lights. Do the front corner lights come on OK?%0D%0A%0D%0ATest to see if there is 12 volts at the connector to the tail light. I use a voltmeter, and check for 12 volts by turning the lights on and disconnecting the connector from each tail light. %0D%0A%0D%0AThen touch the red voltmeter test lead to the bit in the connector that has the Brown wire (right side) and the Red wire (left side) while touching a ground with the black voltmeter lead.%0D%0A%0D%0ANo volts? BFWS relay.%0D%0A%0D%0AGot 12 volts? Problem with the connection or the tail light itself.%0D%0A%0D%0ABTW, the above assumes that your car is a sedan (244) rather than a wagon (245).%0D%0A%0D%0AGood Luck,%0D%0A%0D%0ABob%0D%0A%0D%0A:>)

240 Tailights - bulb failure relay? -posted by- ROB244

Sat, 24 Mar 2007 13:29 GMT

My '88 240 passenger side tailights have worked intermittently for several years. Now they don't come on at all -- except that the brake light function does work. Put new tailights on the car last summer -- same bulbs each side, properly gounded, etc., and all worked fine until recently, when the bulb failure light came on, and the two tailights quit. Could this be the bulb failure relay?

rocky ride -posted by- bug626

Mon, 26 Mar 2007 02:15 GMT

Hi all,%0D%0A%0D%0AI've been reading this board for a year or so and am happy to finally post. My question is with my recently aquired 1995 850 turbo wagon. The previous owner had it lowered and the ride is a bit rough. I'm wondering what may have been done to the car that will need to be reversed to give it a better ride?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks all!%0D%0A%0D%0AEm

Hello from frozen New England -posted by- KlausC

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 18:59 GMT

New England only gets cold for a few days each year, not to worry :)%0D%0AAs for 240's... your only problem is finding examples without too much rust. There are more 240's back east than you can imagine. %0D%0ABrake pads on the 850/70 are not hard, not as easy as the 240, but removing the caliper and greasing the slides is very easy. Bleading brake lines are quite simple if you get a power bleeder and pump it up to 10-15lbs. Just don't try to torque down the 7mm nipples too hard.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0A1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi

Sawasdee krub, Greetings from Thailand -posted by- Kung

Mon, 26 Feb 2007 18:33 GMT

Hello everyone I'm from Thailand who just gifted 240 GLE for chineese newyear from my dad, actually it almost selled but I've changed my mind and think again that how good of this car while she serviced as my family's work horse.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy dad bought secondhanded 240 GLE for over 10 years ago, luckily this 240's destiny met someone who really care the car, my dad runs his repairing garage and took care of her, but last year my dad getting old and he's using another car and let 240 as borrowing car for my cousin until I've gifted this car.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe pictures is in the below (by clicking the links)%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a34/medicchan/240-1.jpg%0D%0Ahttp://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a34/medicchan/240-2.jpg%0D%0Ahttp://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a34/medicchan/240-3.jpg%0D%0Ahttp://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a34/medicchan/240-4.jpg%0D%0A%0D%0AActually there're some modification, originally the head light is '85 model and there're no quad square light in Thailand, luckily my dad found them from junk shop.%0D%0A%0D%0ANow this old workhorse is currently huge checking and repair in what it need then repaint in special edition colours (ruby red - metallic black) replacing with new engine (it supposed to be B21ET but there're none to be found) and finally some gadgets to resurrect and become by warhorse.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny further comment or responses is greatly thanks in advance.%0D%0A

Sawasdee krub, Greetings from Thailand -posted by- KlausC

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 18:48 GMT

Unless there is rust forming under the paint, may I suggest that a wash and wax will make that old 240 look like new again. I would attack the front seats by taking the covers off and finding someone to make new covers from vinyl, in the same color, or even 2 tones.%0D%0AIf the engine works, just clean it up and be on the look out for a new/used turbo engine. Remember the Volvo 740 uses the same engine.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou could use some new tires also :)%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0A1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi

Hello from Tallinn, Estonia//parts suppliers? -posted by- George, Tallinn, Estonia

Sun, 4 Mar 2007 08:36 GMT

Hi Everyone,%0D%0A%0D%0ALast summer my family and I moved from tropical, balmy south Texas to cold, dark, snowy Estonia. (We are on the Baltic Sea, a ferry-ride away from Helsinki.) We live in the southern outskirts (complete with pine trees) of Tallinn, the nation's capital. (If you are curious, there are some nice photos of Tallinn's medieval Old Town in the Wikipedia article on Tallinn.) It's nice here, but the roads have not improved much in the fifteen years since independence from the USSR. In those days, only VIPs had a car. Nowadays, everybody has a car or two, but the infrastructure here hasn't kept up. %0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, I have learned more about WINTER TIRES than I ever cared to know.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhen we made the move last summer, we put our 1992 740 Turbo Wagon into a container with all of our other household goods, and had it shipped here. We paid much more to ship it than we had paid for it six months earlier. But, we really like the car, and its previous owner was an airline pilot who really maintained it well. Plus, it had never seen a real winter, and was in great shape. The car is fire-engine red, and has become our dear friend. %0D%0A%0D%0AWe have found an independent mechanic who specializes in Volvo, who we thought did well on changing a leaky water pump.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would like to hear from anyone who can suggest a European parts supplier. I cannot always afford to shop with the Volvo dealer here, but I am picky about replacement parts. Maybe a European Brickboard member can direct me to the Euro equivalent of FPC Groton? Where do folks in Sweden go for parts?%0D%0A%0D%0AMany thanks!%0D%0AGeorge