http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:16 GMT Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:16 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 15 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Found the link on Matthew's site. Will do it Monday. Thanks.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12651%0D%0A%0D%0ALooks somewhat easy.%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384723/850/common_abstracs_causes.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 16:55 GMT 1996+ Volvos do have weak solder joints in the ABS modules. 1993-5 850s seldom fail, but the units are not interchangeable.%0D%0A%0D%0ANot all scanners are equal. Try borrowing one at your local autoparts store.%0D%0A%0D%0ALook around your area for someone that will fix yours. Victor has been doing them for quite some time. Just scan his name.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384638/850/common_abstracs_causes.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:54 GMT My TRACS light came on three days ago. The following day the ABS light came on.%0D%0A%0D%0AAre the controllers usually the issue? Maybe the whell sensors? I scanned the car for codes but only got engine related faults.%0D%0A%0D%0ASuggestions? :( http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384591/850/common_abstracs_causes.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 23:45 GMT My V70 had Nivomats, so I left them alone - too expensive. But when I replaced the front struts, I went a little overboard. All I really needed was the shocks and spring seats and new bolts to hold the struts on the control arm. I opted to also replace all of the upper hardware since there was no labor charge. %0D%0A%0D%0AI was dissapointed with the quality of the nuts/bolts from FCPGroton and bought OEM from the dealer. IPD supplied better quality end links.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf you DIY, the ABS sensor attached to the strut is made of plastic. There is a very small plastic pin that gets pushed out to release it from the strut. Don't lose the little pin!%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384708/s70_struts.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 16:14 GMT OK, just to confirm.%0D%0A%0D%0AFront struts and seats (not the mounts though)%0D%0ARear shocks and mounts (not the seats though)%0D%0A%0D%0AWant to make sure I have my terminology and parts right...%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384644/s70_struts.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 06:47 GMT I have a 98 S70 N.A. with 280K miles. %0D%0A%0D%0AMy struts are either original or were before it hit 100k (when I bought it). The don't seem to be blown, maybe a very slight leak of fluid out of one of them. And I don't seem to have any issues with the spring seat clunking. %0D%0A%0D%0AI am about to replace the worn control arms and end links and since I will have to get an alignment, should I seriously consider replacing the struts and the spring seats? or will they likely last a while still?%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, what should I replace with the struts? the spring seats and the mounts? anything else? seems like a lot of different parts that are called different things depending on who is talking. %0D%0A%0D%0Athanks. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384305/s70_struts.html?rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 19:01 GMT Thanks, just ordered a new MAF. %0D%0AIs that nipple the square looking thing in the hose before the turbo with a large vacuum line next the the smaller vacuum line? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384704/850/850_turbo_poor_mileage.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 16:10 GMT Because you already cleaned the MAF, it is time to replace it. Remember, do not touch the sensitive part when installing.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe PCT nipple is just before the turbo connection on the intake pipe. It is plastic and quite fragile, so be careful. TB cleaner works, as does a very small screwdriver if it is completely clogged. You will need a flashlight to get a good look at it, even on a nice sunny day like today.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384701/850/850_turbo_poor_mileage.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 16:03 GMT Question. I have a 95 Volvo 850 Turbo the mileage is currently at 13.7 city, cant seem to get it back up to 18. I also only use 92 octane or higher. %0D%0A%0D%0AHere's what I've done so far:%0D%0A%0D%0AComplete tune up wires cap rotor plugs.%0D%0AAll flame trap and vacuum hoses are new.%0D%0ANew Timing Belt.%0D%0ANew intake gasket.%0D%0ANew Cam Position Sensor.%0D%0ANew hi flow intake filter.%0D%0ANew MagnaFlow Muffler.%0D%0ANew O2 sensors.%0D%0ANew temp sensor.%0D%0AAll new SAMCO turbo hoses.%0D%0ANew Thermostat.%0D%0ACleaned all the intake and throttle body.%0D%0ANew Throttle Position Sensor.%0D%0ACleaned ICV.%0D%0ACleaned the MAF Sensor.%0D%0ACleaned Injectors.%0D%0ANew Fuel Pressure Regulator.%0D%0ANew Purge Valve.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AThe only things I have not replaced are the actual MAF Sensor or the Charcoal Canister. Could these two things affect the fuel economy that bad?%0D%0A%0D%0AAny help would be appreciated, thank you. %0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, the car idles a little rough when cold, but evens out when it warms up a little. Car also runs really strong when warm. %0D%0A%0D%0AThank you. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384535/850/850_turbo_poor_mileage.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:47 GMT Thanks for the info, I unpluged the MAF when the engine was cold, there was a very big improvement in idle. Never heard of doing that before, also there is no check engine light associated with the MAF. Does this mean it needs replacing? %0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, what is this PCT Nipple? Is it in the actualy intake hose from the filter to the turbo? %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks again for the help. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384675/850/850_turbo_poor_mileage.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 15:15 GMT Unless your foot is heavier than mine, you should be getting 20-22 around town. The charcoal cannister will do nothing for you, leave it alone.%0D%0A%0D%0AWith a cold engine, unplug the MAF and then see if the engine idles normally while it is still cold. If it idles better, that makes it a good candidate for replacement.%0D%0ANever, never plug/unplug the MAF with the key in position II.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, recheck your intercooler connections for any air leaks, especially from the air cleaner to the turbo. Little cracks can mean big leaks.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnd, clean out the PCT nipple if you haven't done so already.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384540/850/850_turbo_poor_mileage.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:02 GMT anyone try using monroe struts? they are about half the price of Bilstein. Are they half he quality? I see them on shockwarehouse.com and wouldn't mind saving the cash on this. I'm not looking for any special handling, just want my 98 S70 to be safe and stable. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384657/monroe_strutsshocks.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 13:46 GMT Monroes are good shocks but not too familiar with them on volvo so can't give any info http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384669/monroe_strutsshocks.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 14:40 GMT You were right. I reprogrammed the button and all is well. Another example of "why try the simple solution if I can make something difficult out of it?" http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384653/S80/memory_seat_issue.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 13:07 GMT This may sound a bit stupid but did you just try and reprogram the buttons. I had this problem on my 01 V70. Something happened and it dumped all the memory positions. The seat continued to work just fine. Finally, I went back in and tried to reprogram the memory positions and it worked just fine. Give it a shot. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384144/S80/memory_seat_issue.html?rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:22 GMT We're having a problem with the drivers seat. I can move it fore and aft using the regular adjustment switch. But pushing any of the three memory buttons won't move the seat or the seat back angle. The mirrors DO move however, so it appears there is no problem with the memory buttons themselves. And since the seat moves when commanded by the regular adjustment switch, I would conclude there is nothing wrong with the motor or mechanicals.%0D%0A%0D%0AIs there a seperate fuse for moving the seat via the memory button? Or does anyone know of another cause for this malfunction? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1383910/S80/memory_seat_issue.html?rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 19:20 GMT The rear shocks are easier than the front and the rear spring seats usually last forever. But the rear shock mounts probably should be replaced with the shock.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384634/s70_struts.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:45 GMT You need someone with better ears to help you.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384636/850/rats.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:48 GMT Sadly, the rattle has returned and sounds like a tiny ball bearing bouncing up and down. (almost like the turn signal click, but I had the cluster out recently) I can now make it rattle by shutting the door, It's very hard to hear exactly where it's coming from and I don't have a stethoscope. Too bad it wasn't the headlight switch after all. %0A--%0A'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384630/850/think_found.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:12 GMT Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on how to fix my dash rattle that I'm still suffering with. It sounds like a tiny loose nut and bolt, or some loose spring steel, or a ball bearing rattling just behind the left most vents. I've had the instrument cluster out and couldn't see anything, had the speaker out, and I've even had the door panel off. I can't find anything. What next? knee bolster? Any ideas at all. Thanks very much.%0D%0A %0D%0A--%0D%0A'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1376844/850/dash_rattle.html?rss=1 Sat, 3 Oct 2009 02:40 GMT makes sense...do the spring seats in the rears generally need it too? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384622/s70_struts.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:31 GMT AAAAAHHHHHH!!! %0D%0Apure bliss%0D%0Athe tiny rattle made me crazy for months%0D%0Athank you thank you thank you%0D%0AI knew we'd get it -headlight switch all the way%0D%0AThanks again%0A--%0A'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1378460/850/think_found.html?rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 01:31 GMT well, thanks everyone for your input! I got the intake and everything back together today and whatever i cleaned out or repaired fixed the problem.... this car now has some serious serious pickup..... i took it out to a deserted road to see what she'd do and the tires spun through 40 mph... i am very impressed and everything seemed to work just as it should. Thanks again! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384627/850/hesitation_low_boost_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:53 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384626/850/hesitation_low_boost_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:51 GMT hey everyone, i've gotta question thats a stumper to me.. %0D%0AI recently picked up a very well kept '95 850 turbo wagon, however its not producing the power that it should at all in my opinion.%0D%0A%0D%0AAt first i thought it may be the intercooler piping may have a leak.. I replaced one bad hose and did a soapy water spray test to see if i had any air leaks, no leaks to be found. when i nail the gas or even just accelerate heavily it will bring the boost about 1/4" into the boost side of the gauge, but then it will hesitate like it's losing the boost. (this isn't just happening on a shift) Even in the "sport" mode it will do this too. just seems to dog out. %0D%0A%0D%0AOtherwise the car drives great, idles perfectly after a couple minutes warming up. I have the intake off at the moment and am cleaning out the oil trap box and related parts..%0D%0A%0D%0AAny ideas on why i have this loss of power and hesitation? once at a high speed it will stay there, just takes quite a while to get there. I've also run a few tanks worth of quality fuel system cleaner through the car as well..%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for any suggestions!%0D%0Ac. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384524/850/hesitation_low_boost_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:19 GMT Load up this URL. It has one of the better images of the turbo vacuum line configuration:%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://media.photobucket.com/image/wastegate%20actuator%20volvo%20850/TIPSP/For%20Sale%20Items/My%20Drawings/Turbo-1.jpg%0D%0A%0D%0AIf you click anywhere inside the image, it will zoom for easier reading.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf you incorrectly connect them, low boost will result. My 98 V70 T5M will produce 15 psi. When one hose was incorrect, the best I could get was 5 psi.%0D%0A%0D%0ARather than fret over cracks and leaks, just replace them all with silicone. Hose is cheap. IPD has hose. Also look here: %0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?maincat=33%0D%0A%0D%0AReplace them one at a time so as not to mix up the connections. %0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384560/850/hesitation_low_boost_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:55 GMT A Volvo isn't a softly sprung American/Japanese car that glides over bumps, so the 'bounce' test is not easily done. Even a 'bounce' of 1/2 inch on a Volvo is an indicator of a weak shock.%0D%0AAt 280K, your shocks are close to death. You may not notice it, having gotten used to the softer ride over the years. But when you get into a panic situation and the car doesn't respond like it should, the bad shocks can cause real problems in steering response.%0D%0ABecause the S70 doesn't have the expensive Nivomats in the rear, I suggest you get all 4 corners replaced with new rubber as well.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384489/s70_struts.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 16:53 GMT I thought that as well, Fixit2002, making me think either dirty injectors or plug wires/ Dist. cap issues could be causing or at least contributing. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384608/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:59 GMT Maybe check the intake bellows. They tend to split after a while. It seems odd that you're getting misfires on every cylinder except #2. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384452/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:43 GMT Hi guys, I'll get right to the point with this one, My 850 (96) after I finally got er back on the road by bypassing the a/c compressor, developed the terror of the road syndrome today, hideous missing and sputtering, just out of the blue. Shes ran just fine, until today. I have multiple misfires on all but cyl. # 2, convienently one day after buying gas. I'm guessing it's a bad tank of fuel, thus a can of sea-foam, a new fuel filter and a new set of plugs to replace the ones I put in a week and a half ago. Am I on the right track here or is there something possibly more sinister going on here? Thanks for the input in advance, I do Appreciate it! - DM http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384398/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 02:01 GMT Thank You for the clarification and guidence, Klaus! I'll give it a serious once over in the morning. Incidentally, I'm beginning to suspect dirty injectors due to the E-85/90 crap they are passing off as gas in this area. I took the car out for a run this evening,( put a can of sea-foam, a southern boys best friend,) in the tank last night, and took it out for an italian valve job, she ran fine, but at idle, it ran like crap. Re-scanned it and threw 2 less misfire codes than yesterday. Plug wires and dist cap, possibly? I admit (shamefully), I didnt change them after my "greenhorn" incident. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384606/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:56 GMT Sorry about the double post, didnt mean to do that. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384607/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:57 GMT Forgive my typists fingers, they meant to spell 'gross intake manifold leak'. Or unmetered air entering the intake manifold, which causes the ECU to enrich the mixture and foul the spark plugs.%0D%0A%0D%0ACheck for a cracked hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body, a crack in the vacuum tree, a loose vacuum line...%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384502/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 17:33 GMT Thank You for the clarification and guidence, Klaus! I'll give it a serious once over in the morning. Incedentally, I'm beginning to suspect dirty injectors due to the E-85/90 crap they are passing off as gas in this area. I took the car out for a run this evening,( put a can of sea-foam, a southern boys best friend,) in the tank last night, and took it out for an italian valve job, she ran fine, but at idle, it ran like crap. Re-scanned it and threw 2 less misfire codes than yesterday. Plug wires and dist cap, possibly? I admit (shamefully), I didnt change them after my "greenhorn" incident. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384605/850/multiple_misfires.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:55 GMT Just got around to doing this this evening and with a new dimmer slide VOILA the dash lights are back! Thanks so much for your help..... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384597/850/1995_850_cluster_lights.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 00:46 GMT If you have a pick&pull junk yard close by, pick up a dimmer switch and a backup for the light switch, both are prone to fail over the years.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou can also spray some electrical contact cleaner in the sliding dimmer switch and see if that helps at all.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhen you get it all working again, put the dash lights at about 80% or less of max light. That way the bulbs will never burn out.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1382989/850/1995_850_cluster_lights.html?rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:44 GMT I just replaced the bulbs after my dash went completely black....they have been going one by one until one morning no more dash lights. I just replaced them all and still no lights.Has anyone had this experience? %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks a bunch! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1382894/850/1995_850_cluster_lights.html?rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 02:33 GMT Paid attention to complete stops and there were no nose-diving. The reason I asked was because driving was like sitting on a chair that its 4 legs are not in equal length. :-) I understand one of the tires is losing air faster than other 3; but should that have such big impact?%0D%0A%0D%0AHave a great weekend. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384586/S70/struts_shot.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 23:23 GMT Save your strut money for another 2 years, just replace the seat.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384410/S70/struts_shot.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 03:10 GMT I have been trying to find the source of a front end noise.%0D%0A%0D%0AReplaced the strut spring seats with the IPD Heavy Duty ones, the originals were actually not that bad - had to remove to inspect anyway.%0D%0A%0D%0AHowever, the pass side strut retracted under its own weight.%0D%0A%0D%0AI didn't have new ones to install when these were out. Am I correct that this one is shot? Somewhere I read that I should not be able to push it in by hand. This was clearly way beyond that.%0D%0A%0D%0AHow are the Bilstein Touring model?%0D%0A%0D%0AAny advice is appreciated.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks%0D%0A%0D%0AMike%0A--%0A1998 S70 GLT http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1382391/S70/struts_shot.html?rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 00:42 GMT I appreciate your initative, but I believe you are going about it the wrong way. You may suck out too much fluid, leaving air pockets behind. The accepted practice is to remove the cooler hose and pump out two quarts at a time until the fluid is cleaned.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384577/S60/changing_fluid_s60.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:55 GMT I have been preparing to change out some of the fluid in my '01 S60 2.4T.%0D%0AI could not find the drain plug so I bought a pump from a popular auction site.%0D%0AWith brass tubing and some small rubber tubing I adapted the pump suction hose to the diameter of the dipstick tube. The '01 needs the 3309 fluid and I got a case from Mobil via an on-line source.%0D%0A%0D%0AI plan to suck out as much as possible, then add exactly the same amount of new stuff. Then drive it through all gears and repeat the process. I have only 64K miles but the fluid is noticeably darker than new fluid. I will have enough 3309 left over to do it again at 130 K. That might be another 8 years from now!%0D%0A%0D%0ASixvolvos http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384565/S60/changing_fluid_s60.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:15 GMT Hello all,%0D%0AI am normally over on the 850 board but I have a question today for my co-worker who owns a S60 (T-2.5). He wants to knows how dificult is it to change the automatic transmission fluid in this car? It has 103,000 miles on it and when he recently went to the dealer and asked them to change it, they told him that Volvo's never need the AT fluid changed. Boy is that a joke as I found out the hard way myself with my 850 that it is wise to change it when it starts to look black in color. Please let me know if this is fairly easy.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1383178/S60/changing_fluid_s60.html?rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 11:47 GMT Yep it's the CV/axles. Cheaper to replace the whole axle. Left one went on ours last year. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384573/850/front_end_clicking_noise_turning.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:41 GMT The sound has come mostly from front right when turning right.%0D%0ANow also starting to click fr left when turning left.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust going to drive straight line from now on. %0D%0A:)%0D%0A%0D%0AJake: So this right/left is different from what you report. %0D%0AKlaus: no sign of spraying on ground or wheels (yet). Man, I know I just need to find time to get under and look at the thing. This weekend.%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384327/850/front_end_clicking_noise_turning.html?rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 20:39 GMT Is this always a half-shaft issue or could it be cv joints?%0D%0AIs there a way for me to check at home before I have a mech look at it?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks. Don%0D%0A'94 855T, 140K http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384195/850/front_end_clicking_noise_turning.html?rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 23:12 GMT ahh, I didnt know there were that many hoses back there, I'll be sure to check them all. And I didnt mean just revving the engine. It's an automatic so I was going to have someone powerbrake it while I did the test to build up pressure.. Thanks for that bit though, i'll be sure to look for the others.%0D%0A%0D%0ADo you know anywhere I may see a diagram of all that piping to know what it all looks like and where it goes? %0D%0A%0D%0AWhile i was dealing with the pcv stuff I did find that the 5/16 plastic tube coming out of the oil trap and going down the length of the engine was broken. I went over it with 5/16" heater hose and clamped it to seal that off. Thats also where my small oil leak was coming from. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384544/850/hesitation_low_boost_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:16 GMT ohh alright i'll definitely keep that in mind then. i'm still getting used to all the 850 quirks.. i've had years and years of 240's... my first 850. thanks for the caution%0D%0Ac. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384554/850/power_braking_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:15 GMT Be very careful when power braking. These trannies are not that strong, and slipping the torque converter like that can overload the internal pumps and blow their seals.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust look for obvious leaks in the IC piping and then concentrate in the turbo area.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384551/850/power_braking_850_turbo.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:02 GMT P0455 = Fuel tank system, large leak, signal low or high, Volvo code EFI-611%0D%0AThis is maybe related to overfilling the fuel tank and filling the evap system up? Maybe evap system is not working properly?%0D%0Ahaha or maybe you have a fuel tank leak?!%0D%0A%0D%0AP1620 = Engine cool fan low speed signal high, Volvo code EFI-514%0D%0Athis is pointing to an electrical problem with the fan relay or the fan itself. This is the cause of your rough running, as if you're getting this code the fuel and air trim are disabled as a 'safe mode' so you can get home.%0D%0A%0D%0AI don't know if P1017 is a real code. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1384550/S70/check_engine_light.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:58 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/