http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:16 GMT Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:16 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 15 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. The front wheels are the same on the AWDs as the FWDs. Here is a good place to start:%0D%0A<a href="http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php">http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php</a> %0D%0A%0D%0AThere is other info available online if you search around a bit.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt's not a really tough job as long as things aren't rusted up too badly. %0D%0A%0D%0AI would buy a can of good penetrating fluid (PBBlaster) and spray your axle nut, the four torx bolts, in behind the rotor, and around the back of the hub where it fits against the carrier (from behind) every day for a week leading up to the operation to make disassembly as easy as possible.%0D%0A%0D%0AStuck rotors can often be displaced by loosening the lug bolts 1/4-1/2 turn and then driving to the end of the driveway and slamming the brakes really hard. %0D%0A%0D%0AGet a bottle of antiseize for reassembly and use it on everything.%0D%0A%0D%0ATake your calipers apart while you're at it and clean and lube the sliding pins with a good brake grease.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso a good time to do sway bar end links if they're bad (and they often are).%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387558/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/front_wheel_bearing_replacement.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:37 GMT Can and would anyone be able to share any information on front wheel bearing replacement? I&#128;&#153;ve replaced them on my RWDs before and also on my 01 4wd Chevy S-10 PU, but not on the AWD Volvo. Any tricks? I thank you for any info you may be able to share.%0D%0A%0D%0AI miss my 140s/60s 240s 740s and still adore our presently owned 1995 940&#128; she&#128;&#153;s a gem. %0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387536/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/front_wheel_bearing_replacement.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:37 GMT I would recommend that you make sure the tranny fluid looks good (reddish - not brown/burnt) as 850 auto trannys don't have a filter and need to be flushed. Brown fluid could indicate major transmission work in the cars near future. Also note that the timing belt should be replaced every 75K.%0D%0A%0D%0AOliver%0D%0A%0D%0AOver a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387556/850/.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:18 GMT My last Login was July of 2007.%0D%0A%0D%0AI guess I have been volvo free for longer than I thought.%0D%0A%0D%0AI am currently looking at a 96 850 non-turbo. The are no apparent problems. However, I have read about potential issues with strut tops, axles and a couple other small things. %0D%0A%0D%0AYes, I popped in for info. But mostly I dropped by to say hi and that I am coming back into the volvo world. No +T Conversions this time. That was fun, but I need a daily driver :)%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0ACaleb http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387515/850/.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:22 GMT actually I think we should all take 2 minutes and send a letter to volvo na's website as Freya suggests. It will only take a minute of your time. And honestly if you were in trouble like this wouldn't you want fellow brickers to get behind you?%0D%0A%0D%0A<a href="http://rusmackedvolvo.com/2009/11/19/letter-to-volvo/">http://rusmackedvolvo.com/2009/11/19/letter-to-volvo/</a>%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387543/rusmackedvolvocom.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:01 GMT I feel obliged to warn off fellow brickers to this dealership. I don't know how many of you are in California, but this might be one to keep away from. It seems like this lady could use a hand Volvo...%0D%0A<a href="http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/20/video-disgruntled-volvo-owner-starts-blog-crafts-lament-in-her/">http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/20/video-disgruntled-volvo-owner-starts-blog-crafts-lament-in-her/</a>%0D%0A%0D%0ASee her whole story here:%0D%0A<a href="http://www.rusmackedvolvo.com">http://www.rusmackedvolvo.com</a>%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387538/rusmackedvolvocom.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:46 GMT Would anyone be able to share any information on front wheel bearing replacement? I&#128;&#153;ve replaced them on my RWDs before and also on my 01 4wd Chevy S-10 PU, but not on the AWD Volvo. Any tricks? I thank you for info you may be able to share.%0D%0A%0D%0AI miss my 140s/60s 240s 740s and still adore our presently owned 1995 940&#128; she&#128;&#153;s a gem. %0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387534/V70/front_wheel_bearing_replacement.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:36 GMT Smitty,%0D%0A%0D%0A Thank you for your detailed response. The "noise" is still present, but I have Volvo pads (with plenty of pad still on them) , and new Volvo rotors that were installed a few hundred miles ago.%0D%0A%0D%0A At this juncture, I was coming to conclusion that this was an annoying noise that I would have to learn to live with. With your explanation, it's more palatable. Thanks!%0D%0A%0D%0A Hugh http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387528/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/brake_rotors_keep_warping_update.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:56 GMT "You hear this noise just before the car comes to a complete stop."%0D%0A%0D%0AYou also stated this only happens when you;ve been in stop-and-go traffic, which tells me it happens when the brakes are warmed up.%0D%0A%0D%0AI think what you describe is annoying but perfectly harmless. When your brakes are heated up from use, at low rotor speeds and only light to moderate brake pedal pressure, the friction linings are doing a "stick/slip" action on the rotors. The pads, which are not a tight fit on their locating guides, move back and forth in their clearances (not left to right, but relative to the direction of rotor rotation). This results in vibration which you perceive as the noise you describe.%0D%0A%0D%0AI had the exact same problem on my 850 - I'd get a "graunch" just before the car came to a complete stop. I tore into the brakes to find the problem but found nothing. Careful experimentation showed I could make the noise appear pretty much on demand except when the brakes were cold (first or second stop of the day) or hot from some hard use.%0D%0A%0D%0AAbsent any pulsation or vibration from rotor runout or deposits ("warping" may be a myth, according to some brake experts), the noise is *just* annoying and is not indicative of problems with the brakes.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf your rotors are fairly new (like under a couple thousand miles), you might try a set of premium/heavy duty pads up front. I think I used Axxis Metal Masters which minimized the problem, but more reliable was to do about 3 or 4 hard stops a week from 60 or 70 mph, to get the brakes hot. You may not want to put up with that kind of regimen. Basically, the source of the problem comes down to the coefficient of friction between the pads and the rotors. This will vary with the type of pad used, and of course with the temperature at the friction interface.%0A--%0AIn God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387464/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/brake_rotors_keep_warping_update.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:11 GMT Hello All,%0D%0A%0D%0A I have a '99 XC with just over a 100,000 miles. Several months ago, after driving in stop and go traffic, (allowing the rotors to heat up), when I applied the brakes, just before the car came to a complete stop, I would hear a "crunching" noise coming from the front brakes. My independent shop diagnosed the problem as warped rotors. It replaced the front rotors with (Brembos at my request to save $$) and installed Volvo pads. About a month or so later, the "crunching" noise returned. The rotors were replaced again (Brembos under warranty). Again, about a month or so later, the "crunching" noise again returned when applying the brakes. Again, the rotors were replaced, this time using Volvo OEM rotors (again under warranty). The noise went away for about 3 weeks, and again returned. The pads are fine, plenty of pad left on them. Does any one have any idea what is causing the rotors to prematurely warp? My independent shop hasn't seen this problem before. Any advice will be appreciated. Also, the noise only develops after you drive the car in stop and go traffic for several miles. Thanks.%0D%0A%0D%0A Hugh http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1383421/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/brake_rotors_keep_warping.html?rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 15:38 GMT I'm getting ready to swap out my old axle and CV joint but I cannot find anything about the how to. Anyone care to walk me through it?%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387518/S60/cv_axle_replacement.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:56 GMT hmmmm......I'll have to take a picture of what I'm seeing Klaus. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!%0D%0AVinnie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387517/S70/oil_cooler_line_replacement_faint_smell_antifreeze.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:36 GMT If the air guide/splash guard is still on your car, take it off. Clean it and leave it in your garage for a day or 2.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe oil cooler lines do not go near the oil filter, they go from the front of the engine to the right side of the radiator.%0D%0A%0D%0AThere is a weep hole at the bottom of the intercooler which will let collected oil drain out when the turbo is boosting. This is normal. It usually runs to the driver's side of the air guard and then drops out by the bottom intercooler hose.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387466/S70/oil_cooler_line_replacement_faint_smell_antifreeze.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:16 GMT Autoclimate control equipped. Cooler temps here in the Texas hill country have dictated a warmer setting on the thermostat. I noticed just a faint smell of antifreeze coming through my vents. I haven't noticed any leaks under the car or in the cabin. By the way, where is the heater core??? How do I know if it needs to be replaced?%0D%0A%0D%0AI've also developed a leak from the oil cooler lines. Where can I get a set for my car without getting gouged by the parts department at the dealership?%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!%0D%0AVinnie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387261/S70/oil_cooler_line_replacement_faint_smell_antifreeze.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:58 GMT Thanks Klaus!%0D%0A%0D%0ACheers,%0D%0Agreendread http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387513/850/whats_fair_rate.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:14 GMT Depends. By complete, do you mean the arm rest/rear ash tray/front cover without window switches? $70-$100.%0D%0A%0D%0AFair means that you both have to be satisfied, start sending emails, or, better yet, call him. Shipping is tough, it will be a large box. USPS is usually faster and cheaper than UPS.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387195/850/whats_fair_rate.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:50 GMT I am trying to find out what a fair rate is for a complete center console for 855 5sp? Its used and from a fellow BBer? %0D%0A%0D%0AI don't want to low ball or over pay!%0D%0AThanks%0D%0A%0D%0Agreendread http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387167/850/whats_fair_rate.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:16 GMT Replace the coolant temp sensor. It's just below the thermostat housing. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387501/850/intermitent_slow_starting_fan_running_temp.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:27 GMT Greetings Bricksters. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe red herring in this issue may be that the radiator started leaking about a month ago, or it may be a cause, but I haven't a clue. I kept driving it and just kept a VERY close eye on coolant levels. It never got more than about 1.5 liters low, but did blow some steam from time to time. %0D%0A%0D%0AI replaced the radiator 2 days ago, in record time. Got it at IPD in Portland, OR, btw. %0D%0A%0D%0A1. Some time in the last 3 weeks the car began requiring 10 to 30 seconds of cranking to start. After several cranks it begins firing intermittently and eventually idles rough for 5 to 10 seconds and then idles and runs normally. %0D%0A%0D%0AAbout 60% of the time, it will start normally after having been driven. The rest of the time, it does #1 above. %0D%0A%0D%0A2. The cooling fan comes on full blast at start up whether the car is dead cold (it's in the low 50's F in the Seattle area right now) or has warmed up and been driven for a while. The fan turns off at some point, accompanied by a brief drop in RPM's, then normal running. %0D%0A%0D%0AOnly one code for 3-4 weeks: P0117, "MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input", according to Actron. %0D%0A%0D%0AWhen I clear the code with the car running (is this a no-no?) the fan stops and the car runs rough until the fan comes back on about a minute later and then it runs normally again. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for reading and please let me know if I can answer any ?'s that may help in getting to the issue. %0D%0A%0D%0ANorman in Renton, WA http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1386259/850/intermitent_slow_starting_fan_running_temp.html?rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:36 GMT It finally happened to me! I've read numerous times about people complaining their ignition key locked up. I had always thought it was because of side force on the steering wheel, you pull the steering wheel off the stop locks to reduce the stress and bingo, you're good to go. Now I know that wasn't the issue. The key inserts normally, and advances to position one (which is past the steering wheel lock part, and you can turn the wheel) and you get some of the dash lights. However the key hits something internally and refuses to rotate further to the start position. I thought it might be some part of the security system so I called our local shop and asked if I could reset something by locking and unlocking the car with the remote or key or just stand on my head. They stated it appears something is broken inside and I'll need to have it towed in.%0D%0A%0D%0ASo in final desperation after jiggling, applying force in out, sideways I just torqued on it real hard towards the start position (around 10-15 foot pounds). Something felt like it broke, and the key went to the start position. I immediately drove home and did not make any of the planned stops in fear of being stranded. %0D%0A%0D%0AAt home I injected a small amount of tri-flow oil (has Teflon) using one of those small red tube extensions to get into the lock. In trying the key again, I could still feel a small catch at that position. More tri-flow, and now the catch is gone altogether and it appears normal.%0D%0A%0D%0ASorry for the long read, but here's the question for the group:%0D%0A%0D%0A1) Does anyone know what went wrong?%0D%0A2) Should we advise owners to periodically lube this area? Mine is a 2001 with 204K miles%0D%0A3) What lubricant is recommended?%0D%0A4) Should I now replace the lock mechanism, and if so any estimates on cost and degree of difficulty and special tooling required?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks all, I hope we can learn more on this issue.%0D%0A%0D%0AJerry%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387446/01_v70_ignition_key_wont_go_past_position_1.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:34 GMT Hi, for years (15x2) I've treated the ign.switch the same way as door locks.%0D%0AVeapon oil at least twice a year, would be time again as November is ending and cold time is around the corner again.%0D%0Abr Tapsa%0D%0A2x850-94%0D%0Av70d5awd http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387474/01_v70_ignition_key_wont_go_past_position_1.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:02 GMT He has already read the codes. The first code said that solenoid #4 is not responding and he needs to find out why.%0D%0AVolvo specific diagnostics is now what he needs, not just guess work on our part.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1385738/S80/p1171.html?rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 05:11 GMT I have a '99 S80 and can't figure out what's wrong. I have been getting plenty of different codes, but each time I replace something, I get code P1171. I have replaced my M.A.F., cleaned my E.T.M., replaced coils 1,2,and 3 (still getting a misfire code on those coils), cleaned my P.C.V. and injectors, and a few others. I am in a desperate need of help. Right now, I am getting about 14 mpg and idle is rough. I need to replace my timing belt along with replacing some cam-shaft seals (weekend project). So, has anyone else had this haunting P1171? How'd you get it to leave your car alone? Dealership keeps charging me about $45 every time I run the car on their diagnostics machine. Thanks for the help, guys. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1383166/S80/p1171.html?rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 05:57 GMT Yes, Klaus, you are correct. (the reason it is so cheap is because I have a friend that runs the code at the dealership)I called him and he told me what the head mechanic said at the Volvo dealership.(I hope this helps someone) If you are getting bank 1 and bank 2 codes, then it is going to be your MAFS (mass air flow sensor), but if you are getting only ONE of the banks reading as a problemed area, as a rule of thumb, it is more than likely the O2 sensor that read out that is bad. I found brand new front Bosch O2 sensors on ebay for about $85 a piece. I will wright back in and tell if this works or not. If it does, someone else that has O2 problems can pinpoint via this comment. Thanks guys! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387472/S80/p1171.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:10 GMT It could be just the igntion switch failing and easy to replace. The next time it happens, jiggle the key slightly and see if that makes a difference.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso check the leads on your battery, they need to be tight and clean.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387469/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/2003_volvo_xc70_sometimes_dash_lights_indicators_go.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:21 GMT I have a 2003 Volvo XC70, sometimes all the dash lights and indicators go on and off. The radio and light controls stay lit up and function. It is becoming more frequent and is not always the same, sometimes lights and indicators don't work othertimes lights on indicators off. I also now have two warning messages that appeared as the indicators and lights came back on. They are bulb position failure and SRS airbag or safety restraint. What could it be and will it be expensive to diagnose or repair? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387437/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/2003_volvo_xc70_sometimes_dash_lights_indicators_go.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:57 GMT The leak seems to be near the oil filter....it's moist around this area on the cooler lines. Leak is about the diameter of a penny after the vehicle is shut down. %0D%0A%0D%0AI've been driving the car a lot today and haven't noticed the smell at all........hmmmmm. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387460/S70/oil_cooler_line_replacement_faint_smell_antifreeze.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:05 GMT Bryan,%0D%0A%0D%0A My independent garage has had my car for a week and could not duplicate the "crunching" noise that I hear just before the car comes to a stop. The garage checked the rotors, pads and calipers (not stuck) and found nothing wrong. The rotors have been replaced 3 times. Each time the "crunching" noise went away for about a month and then returned. The rotors were replaced under the belief they had become warped.%0D%0A%0D%0A I have to add though, I never experienced any "pulsation" in the brake pedal when I heard the "crunching" noise. This noise is heard after driving the car for several miles in stop and go traffic. When you first drive the car, especially when its been parked overnight, you don't hear any noise from the brakes as I described. You hear this noise just before the car comes to a complete stop.%0D%0A%0D%0A I've talk my independent garage that as soon as I hear the "crunching noise" I'll bring it to them immediately so they can hear and experience it too. It's just frustrating to have to deal with this problem for so many months.%0D%0A%0D%0A Hugh http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1385276/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/brake_rotors_keep_warping_update.html?rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:44 GMT Replacing the lock is a real PITA. Besides, you have to order a new lock from the factory and ruin your plug-in drill bits.%0D%0A%0D%0AGraphite, graphite, graphite. Take the cover off the steering column to expose the lock and oil any moving part you see. Don't forget the small interlock cable in the rear. And don't break the security ring in the back.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387463/01_v70_ignition_key_wont_go_past_position_1.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:10 GMT The heater core is about a 2 hour job. Go here and take a look:%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/9717-pics-of-heater-core-install/%0D%0A%0D%0AI have no idea why the glove box is removed???%0D%0AJust remove the side panels to find the leak. You can still use the car with the panels removed. Then order the parts you need.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf the oil cooler lines are leaking at the radiator, I suggest first trying to replace the O rings and use hose clamps to gently tighten the line couplings. Be careful, the radiator couplings are plastic and can crack. Do NOT use hardware store hose clamps, they will shred the lines.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387424/S70/oil_cooler_line_replacement_faint_smell_antifreeze.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:15 GMT The leak seems to be near the oil filter....it's moist around this area on the cooler lines. Leak is about the diameter of a penny after the vehicle is shut down. %0D%0A%0D%0AI've been driving the car a lot today and haven't noticed the smell at all........hmmmmm. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387459/S70/oil_cooler_line_replacement_faint_smell_antifreeze.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:05 GMT Do a search for torchlight and find out the bad news.%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387457/V70/torchlight_motors_bad_experiences.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:03 GMT What experiences have people had with Torchlight Motors in Parlin, NJ? I just purchased a 2000 V70 with 48k miles on it and it has some "issues." I was just wondering what others of you know about this dealer. Thanks. %0A--%0ADarius in Albany NY '86 744 GLE (180K, given to my mother-in-law); '91 745 Turbo (195K-my 'Little Red Wagon'), '00 Toyota Camry (90K - my wife's transportation appliance) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387453/V70/torchlight_motors_bad_experiences.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:07 GMT They are asking 3,900 and put a clutch in it already. Makes me wonder. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387445/850/1993_850_5_speed_stay_way.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:19 GMT Found a 1993 850 with 84k on it and wondering if I should stay away from it since its the first model year. Only reason im thinking about it is because its a stick. Dont really know 850's all that well been into the 240, and 940's. I know a good taken care of 850 with records is good and to stay away from one that needs work or is a cheap deal. I do most of my own work so thats not really a big deal. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387345/850/1993_850_5_speed_stay_way.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:38 GMT Hmmm. You could check A-7 for the odo reading in case someone replaced the instrument cluster. Still, no bargain at that price.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387456/850/1993_850_5_speed_stay_way.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:02 GMT 2004 XC90 T6. My car has been dying when at idle. It will restart but will keep dying unless the throttle is "jazzed" quite a bit. Under acceleration it seems to run fine. The CEL came on and I pulled the codes P2190 and P2188 indicating that both banks are running too rich. I checked the hoses and they all seem to be fine. This problem happened about three months ago and then went away. Now it is back. I'm thinking maybe a bad MAF? Anyway, if I unplug the MAF and it runs better can I assume that is the problem and replace it? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1386977/XC90/need_help_idle_problem.html?rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:36 GMT Check & see if the throttle needs cleaned/for the dying. Situation sounds familiar. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387454/XC90/need_help_idle_problem.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:09 GMT I just got this in my email. You might want to keep it in mind if you are contemplating a trip to the dealer to fix some software.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AVIDA System Maintenance - please be advised:%0D%0ADuring the weekend of November 20-22 the datacenter in Gothenburg, Sweden will be powered down for%0D%0Amaintenance. A maintenance power down will affect the servers controlling some aspects of VIDA, including%0D%0Athe vehicle database, PIE.%0D%0AThis will happen from Friday Nov. 20, 2009 9pm EST - Sunday Nov. 22, 2009 12:00am EST%0D%0ADuring this time, access to VIDA Software Downloading and Confirmations will not be possible.%0D%0A%0D%0AThank you.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387395/need_factory_software_download_weekend.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:39 GMT No problem cars this saturday ! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387451/need_factory_software_download_weekend.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:01 GMT I had a 93 850 - biggest issues for that year are auto tranny - which is not an issue in your case and the AC. Also there are some parts you need to be careful of. Headlights, brake rotors, etc - not a big deal for me but it has been about 3 years since I moved on. After taking mine to 310k miles I moved up to a 94. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387447/850/1993_850_5_speed_stay_way.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:38 GMT If it is a deal, go for it. The front suspension and wheels are different, require more maint but is cheaper for some parts. Tbelt is every 50K, as are plugs, cap&rotor, and Sbelt.%0D%0AThe 5 speeds are nice, expect the clutch to go to 200K.%0D%0AThe PCV system does need to be watched for crud buildup%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387394/850/1993_850_5_speed_stay_way.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:37 GMT Costco is now a Volvo dealer????%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387296/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/costco_auto_services.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:21 GMT Hello,%0D%0ACostco is advertising "employee" pricing for new xc 60s, 70s and 90s models. Does anyone know what kind of discount that translates to?%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0ALinc http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387199/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/costco_auto_services.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:04 GMT Yes, but you have to buy them in bulk. 2 volvos per customer minimum:)%0D%0A%0D%0AKen%0A--%0A2000 V70 XC / 2001 S60 totalled while parked :( http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387440/XC50/XC60/XC70/XC90/costco_auto_services.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:28 GMT Light bulb???? Did you move the intercooler pipe to get the spark plug cover off? Is it back nice and tight? ANY air leak will cause a too rich condition = P2188.%0D%0A%0D%0ACheck any other vacuum lines for leaks. Your old plugs are worn out, get them out of there and put the new ones back in. Make sure the coils are seated properly and the wires plugged in tightly before putting the cover back on.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387438/S60/s60_changed_plugs_runs_great_except_occasional_stumbling.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:59 GMT %0D%0AThe code was P2188.%0D%0A%0D%0ARecapping:%0D%0AInstalled new plugs in 2004 S60 turbo. Runs perfect most of the time but the idle can dip following by mild engine surge. When this happens can hear the idle is rough. Engine stalled once. The surge is enough to make wife uncomfortable when it happens in reverse. Don't notice anything when cruising, if this also happens then it is too subtle to tell.%0D%0A%0D%0AAfter a few days it set the above code.%0D%0A%0D%0ATrying to narrow down the cause I put the old plugs back. The new ones were gapped right on .028 but I wanted to rule out a bad plug. Ok - ruled it out. Probably still there with the old plugs (FWIW they are gapped at .034 .034 .034. 031 .031. I didn't mess with this because I wanted to put it back like it was). Problem is infrequent enough that I didn't experience it during 5 minute test drive with multiple stops/starts but it happened the next day when wife was driving.%0D%0A%0D%0AI cleared the code, will see if/when it comes back. I don't expect clearing the code to make it run better.%0D%0A%0D%0AVery discouraging. Such a simple task.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for your help,%0D%0A%0D%0ATerry%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387426/S60/s60_changed_plugs_runs_great_except_occasional_stumbling.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:22 GMT %0D%0A2004 S60 turbo, 73,000 miles. Changed plugs and the car runs great most of time. Occasionally at idle the RPM's drop, then engine surges a bit. Not a huge surge but seems like the engine realizes it is too slow and compensates. %0D%0A%0D%0AAt least one time at idle, in gear, stopped it did this in a regular pattern: about every 2 seconds the engine would drop about a hundred RPM's, then pull back to normal speed.%0D%0A%0D%0AI know this doesn't help a lot but after a few days the CEL came on. I don't yet know the code, having misplaced the software key to my OBDII code reader program.%0D%0A%0D%0AThis has been going on for a week, car is driven several times a day. One time the engine stalled. No symptoms other than the engine speed drop/mild surge.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks, http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1386461/S60/s60_changed_plugs_runs_great_except_occasional_stumbling.html?rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 16:37 GMT %0D%0AI should add one thing. I certainly hope this isn't the cause but no one could guess it so here goes.%0D%0A%0D%0AAfter I installed the plugs I thought I'd start the engine before putting everyting back together. Seemed like a good idea at the time, didn't think much about it. However, this is the first time I did the plugs on a turbo and I completely forgot about the turbo over-engine air tube, which was not in place. Engine started and immediately died and I immediately realized my mistake.%0D%0A%0D%0ANote the code didn't set for several days after that but I throw this in for complete disclosure. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387430/S60/s60_changed_plugs_runs_great_except_occasional_stumbling.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:31 GMT The buzzing sound is suspicious. If there are no codes, it is usually a fuel delivery problem. Try this some morning when the car won't start and you have a little time to experiment:%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=1265592%0D%0A%0D%0AThe fuel pump relay is in the fuse box tray, #103 stamped on the top.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1387428/850/cold_weather.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:29 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/