http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2008, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 17 May 2008 12:01 GMT Sat, 17 May 2008 12:01 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 15 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Just notice got a little bit of leak from the main seal, anyone konws the cost of replacement & labor? How much time do I have before I really have to do it, and what is going to happen if I don't replace it down the road? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277755/850/cost_replaced_rear_main_seal.html?rss=1 Sat, 17 May 2008 09:59 GMT 95 850 turbo. When ideling I am smelling unburnt fuel. Not leaking fuel but strong gas fumes when at idle. And I am sure that my poor gas mileage has somthing to do with it also. I have no idea what to start looking for. Any ideas? Can the digital read out in the dash that shows mpg be trusted? It says 17 mpg on the open road http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277716/850/smelling_unburnt_gas.html?rss=1 Sat, 17 May 2008 00:39 GMT You could have a leak after the fuel pump, time to start checking around, if you can continually smell the gas its leaking, your not directly seeing it because your not looking, gas will evaporate very quickly in small drop's, next time you smell it start following your fuel lines all the way up to the engine, chances are though its under the car, if it was in the engine compartment it would need to be a larger quantity for you to smell it, that being the case would be very dangerous and by now it probly would have exploded JUST KIDDING but that can happen so track down the leak quickly. good luck http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277741/850/smelling_unburnt_gas.html?rss=1 Sat, 17 May 2008 02:40 GMT I took my S60 T5 in for 75K service about 3 weeks ago. This afternoon, when I got in my car to head home after work, the Coolant Low light came on. I turned the car off, then on again and the light didn't come on BUT I checked the coolant level. It's about a half inch above the minimum line, does this sound right? I'm thinking that my dealer didn't do the job right, and didn't top off. Should fluid level be intermediate between max and min? %0D%0AThanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277740/S60/whats_right_level_coolant.html?rss=1 Sat, 17 May 2008 02:36 GMT Need Some Advice%0D%0A%0D%0APossible Purchase Is%0D%0A%0D%0A1997 850GLT T5 110K $2450.00 Southern California%0D%0A%0D%0AABS Light Is On, Seller Says Its A Sensor%0D%0ABrake's Most Likley Need Done%0D%0ALeather As Expected Is Okay Shape.%0D%0ANormall Ding's and what not on body.%0D%0A%0D%0AI will be doing an inspection of the car this Sunday, a friend has offered the car to me as he wants outta his loan, i have never own an 850, so what should i be looking for on this paticular model, i have owned many 700's and currently own a 03 V70 so im looking for specific advice, i know the ABS is an issue with this year, what else should i be looking for? ill be taking what everyone has to say and making myself a checklist. %0D%0A%0D%0AThank You In Advance, if i purchase it ill let you know. its time for a new project anyways. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277738/850/advice.html?rss=1 Sat, 17 May 2008 02:31 GMT I have 17x7.5" Amalthea rims installed on my 850 T-5 using Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin 215/45/R17 tyres. The original factory wheels that I had are 16" Columba rims shorn with Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD-2 205/50/R16. The spare is a Columba with the same tire that's not ever been used.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy question is: Are these wheels so different in size that I should be overly worried about driveability/safety/bad mechanical wear in the event that the spare has to deployed?%0D%0A%0D%0AAs far as I have been able to ascertain via several online tire size calculators, a new 205/50/R16 tyre is approx 0.5" inch smaller in diameter and 1.7" inch in circumference than a new 215/45/R17 - I presume after a while, the used 17" tyres will become fairly similar in diameter to the new 16" spare! Going to 205/55/16 will make the spare about 0.3" comparatively larger in diameter.%0D%0A%0D%0AI am trying to save some money by not picking up another Volvo 17" rim and fitting a 215/45/17 to it.%0D%0A%0D%0ASome food for thought from the Tirerack (albeit for 4WDs):%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.tirerack.com/tires-techpage-1/18.shtml%0D%0A%0D%0AAppreciate any advice guys!%0D%0A%0D%0ALucast http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277720/850/spare_tire_dilemma_advice_sought.html?rss=1 Sat, 17 May 2008 01:12 GMT I was just looking at a 2000 v70 xc awd and it had one of those spoiler lips on the rear roof line. I thought only the 70 R had those, but the rear just said v70 xc awd. I haven't seen it in person, but I got the VIN. Is there a way to tell?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks, Calvin http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277706/r_will_say_rear.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 22:39 GMT You may have noticed some other posts on my '96 850 wagon recently (I think it may be on its last legs at 265K miles). The latest problem is my engine cutting out on me while driving (no hesitation or other indication that it's about to quit). I'll pull the the side of the road, and it'll restart fine. It has onlly happened on a cold engine, so far. No codes of any sort on my OBD II check. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277704/850/engine_cuts_driving.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 22:10 GMT any good salvage yards in the bronx. Have a cracked exhaust mainfold 95%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks Madness http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277697/850/salvage_yards_bronx.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 21:17 GMT Hello all,the window on my 850 drops the last part of its travel with a clunk. Also, can anyone advise of the symptoms of a faulty evaporater and are the new ones longer lasting? Any ideas of the above problems would be appreciated. regards David http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277613/850/window_drop.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 13:42 GMT I should state that on a cooler day the aircon continues to work (when it doesnt really matter), but on a really hot day , the aircon only works for 10 minutes and then blows hot air...arrgh. Am i right to understand that the use of synthetic oil alleviates problems with the blocking of the flame trap/pcv system? David http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277620/850/window_drop.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 14:05 GMT Your a/c problems sound more like a compressor clutch with excessive air gap. You can replace the clutch and compressor complete or you can try pulling the front of the clutch off and reducing the air gap by reducing the shim pack that is in there.%0D%0A%0D%0AMark http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277688/850/window_drop.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 20:37 GMT Anyone has installed an after market radio for the V70? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277410/V70/market_radio_v70.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 12:17 GMT Since no one else has swung at this...%0D%0A%0D%0AInstalling an aftermarket radio should not be terribly difficult. You'll need an adapter for the dash to make the trim look right (and take up the extra space). If you aren't too keen on hacking into a perfectly good wiring harness, you'll also want an adapter harness. Both of these items can be easily found (www.crutchfield.com for example). Physically removing the old stereo is very easy. %0D%0A%0D%0AOne potential snag is that many (if not all) V70s came with more than 4 stock speakers. Most aftermarket head units will only power 4 speakers easily. A search should provide some better insight into this than I can provide.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhy is it that you're looking to replace the radio? The SC-816 in my V70 sounds as good or better than the aftermarket radios in my other wagons (Blaupunkt & Pioneer). Replacing just the speakers may be an economical first step to improve sound. If it is power that you're after, an aftermarket amp/speakers might be a more direct route to your goal. (Instructions for converting the stock pre-outs to RCA jacks can be found on turbobricks). %0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277682/V70/market_radio_v70.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 20:01 GMT I did some research on the web and on this board. I understand that usual OBDII scanners can only access generic codes, mostly about emission system, the codes that start with P0xxx%0D%0AVolvo specific codes, that start with P1xxx can be accessed by the scanners that Volvo dealers have.%0D%0ASome web sites claim that their scanners can read, interpret, and clear Volvo codes (SRS, ABS, Climate control, etc). These are usually PC (laptop)- based, and require special software running on a PC. OBDII connection is made with a special cable (serial to OBDII).%0D%0A%0D%0AHere is my question - does anyone on this esteemed forum used or had a scanner that can read and clear Volvo-specific codes? can this be done at all?%0D%0A%0D%0AThe "No' answer I already know. Does anyone has a "Yes' answer?%0D%0A%0D%0AThank you,%0D%0AYuri http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277306/V70/scanner_can_access_volvo_specific_codes_exist.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 00:50 GMT Mark,%0D%0AThank you, this helps.%0D%0A%0D%0AI just feel a bit sad that something I enjoyed and did well for years - repairing my cars is almost taken away from me. I know, I am not the only one.%0D%0A%0D%0AWell, my bicycle is still under my full control:-)%0D%0A%0D%0AWill pay a visit to a dealer to clear the SRS code which I foolishly set myself by pulling a fuse without disconnecting the battery.%0D%0A%0D%0AYuri http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277562/V70/scanner_can_access_volvo_specific_codes_exist.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 04:37 GMT If you want to reset the SRS code then you can buy software package here, which will do certain models, but mainly pre 2000.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.ilexa.co.uk/content/category/2/2/2/%0A--%0ATek http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277680/V70/scanner_can_access_volvo_specific_codes_exist.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 19:35 GMT Hi,%0D%0AI think you should try this%0D%0Ahttp://www.ppc-diagnostic.com/%0D%0Alooks very promising and obout 1500SEK perhaps 150Euros $200%0D%0Athinkin about testing as havin today one of those general units only.%0D%0Abr Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277676/V70/scanner_can_access_volvo_specific_codes_exist.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 19:04 GMT my CV joints have started making the crunchy/clicky sounds. they only do when i am turning corners under power. the boots are sound and intact still but i know there was a repair of both boots a few years ago. %0D%0A%0D%0Aare there any issues/problems driving with this condition (except for the sound of course)? does the noise/vibration cause other thing to wear earlier?%0D%0A%0D%0Athanks for reading,%0A--%0A-woodsytf '95 850 wagon 157k http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277621/850/cv_joint_noise.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 14:16 GMT The CV joints take ALL of the brakeing and acceleration loads. The noise will only get worse and if ignored long enough the joint will fail and come apart leaving NOTHING to control where the wheel is pointed. If this happens going down the freeway you are in deep Bandini to say the least. Better get it fixed ASAP. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277657/850/cv_joint_noise.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 17:05 GMT Hello, can someone pls. tell me how to remove the turbo from my 1995 850. Do I have to remove the exhaust manifold to replace the turbo unit or I can just pull the turbo unit by itself. Thank you everyone. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277429/850/turbo_removal.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 14:14 GMT It is pretty straightforward, remove the heat shielding around it, disconnect the coolant and oil supply and return lines, remove the rest of the vacuum lines, the headpipe, air inlet and outlet pipes, and then the 4 bolts that hold it to the manifold. Leave the manifold on the head, rotate the turbo so it stands on end and lift it out. Just make double sure that you have all pipes, lines, and other stuff disconnected and then remove the 4 bolts that hold it in, pretty simple really. And to answer your question, NO, it is not necessary to pull the manifold like on the older 2/7/900 series cars.%0D%0A%0D%0AMark http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277634/850/turbo_removal.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 15:34 GMT keys can be done at dealers for big $$$ and sometimes local locksmiths can do keys for less $$$. there is a local shop that does transponder keys where i live.%0D%0A%0D%0Agood luck.%0D%0A--%0D%0A-woodsytf '95 850 wagon 157k http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277616/V70/v70_new_need_advice_needs_keys_fob.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 13:52 GMT Hello all, i just purchased a 98 V70 with 129,000 km on the clock. Bought it from a small used car dealer. They only had 1 key, no key fob also missing the radio code. All is fine as I have 1 key and the radio is working, what happens when I change the battery....%0D%0ACan anyone tell me where and how to get the remote key fob, with programing, extra keys and the radio code.. I have been trying to find the name of the last owner, but am having difficulty with that as well..%0D%0AAny suggestions would be great%0D%0A%0D%0APadrea http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277595/V70/v70_new_need_advice_needs_keys_fob.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 11:45 GMT For the radio code, you have to go to the dealer and show proof that you are the owner. If you are lucky, the previous owner may have written the radio code in the owner's manual or in one of the documents that came with the car with new. I hope they are in the glove box. %0D%0A%0D%0ATime to rant and rave: where in the cr%p are the 2 extra keys you should have and where are the fobs? What do people do with these things? People buy a $30,000 or $40,000 item and promptly start losing parts of their purchase? No wonder so many used cars look like they slipped way down the food chain to bottom feeders. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277625/V70/radio_code_must_go_dealer_needs_keys_fob.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 14:27 GMT Signs of a failing Evaporator include loss of freon. It could take a day or it could take a month to leak down so low that the compressor will either not turn on or it will start to cycle on and off every few seconds. It'll work great when the AC is running and there is freon, no temperature change until the system gets low on pressure.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs far as the window, I've got no idea! Sorry! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277619/850/window_drop.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 14:00 GMT For the 98MY, you will have to acquire a remote from either your Volvo dealer or an on line seller &#091ebay has a lot of them&#093 but you will have to have it programmed at the dealer.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs for the radio code, take the VIN and proof of ownership to your dealer; they should be able to retrieve the radio code. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277601/V70/v70_new_need_advice_needs_keys_fob.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 12:52 GMT I'm currently in the market for a newer wagon. I haven't owned a Volvo for 4 years but I have previously owned 240's in the past with good success. I like the look of the newer style V70's and notice they don't hold their value very well which is great for me since I'm buying!%0D%0A%0D%0AMy questions are- %0D%0AMy brother had a 1998 V70 (old body style) and had horrible luck with the electrical system. Are the 2001's any better? %0D%0A%0D%0AI know the 2001's are the first year of this body style, should I stay away?%0D%0A%0D%0AAnything to lookout for on this model? Weak links?%0D%0A%0D%0AIs the legroom better on the 01's and up and the 1998 V70 was pretty tight for me as I'm 6'2". %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for any help and input,%0D%0AAndy http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277423/V70/2001_v70s_reliable.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 13:33 GMT Andy,%0D%0AThere is no easy answer. I replaced my 1995 850 with a 2001 V70 a few month ago.%0D%0AAll Volvos lose their value quickly, which indeed makes them great value, since they can last for a long time. I think this is partially due to their low reliably (real or perceived), so after the warranty expires, price drops a lot.%0D%0A%0D%0A2001 V70 is known for its bad ETM module, but this year is covered by Volvo's 10 year/200K miles warranty for the ETM system). %0D%0A%0D%0A2001 V70 is a larger car, longer base. Not sure if the front space is larger, but the seat can be moved far back. It is comfortable, much quieter than older body style. Suspension in my V70 feels almost Oldsmobile-like after the 850, but the car handles well and holds the road.%0D%0A%0D%0ASo far (at 39K to 45K miles) I had two problems - auto-dimming mirror broke (does not dim), and climate control does not adjust temperature. Both worked well, and simply broke by themselves, unprovoked).%0D%0A%0D%0AIf you plan to repair it yourself, keep in mind that many parts are software-controlled and hard to troubleshoot without dealer's computer. But there is not much you can do about it - most newer cars are like this.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou will find these problems on most European cars - small stuff breaks, repair is expensive, but the cars runs. %0D%0A%0D%0AI think you should not be afraid of 2001 V70. All depends on the price, too.%0D%0AI think used Volvos are true bargains. For $11K you can get a 2001 or so car, with many options, leather, etc, and with many years and many thousand miles left in it.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277569/V70/2001_v70s_reliable.html?rss=1 Fri, 16 May 2008 04:57 GMT There are scanners out there that can do it but they are all expensive. I use a laptop with the latest version of Vadis on it which also requires the use of a VST and a couple of cables, total cost including the laptop would be conservatively in the area of $2500.00. Another option would be to get either the Baum or AST tools, the work very well and they carry a multi thousand dollar price tag as well. Now you have a little insight into why shops charge to read and clear your codes. If you have a "manufacturer specific" code you may want to pay someone to take a look at it for you. Not much of a "yes" answer but it is the only one I have.%0D%0A%0D%0AMark http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277469/V70/scanner_can_access_volvo_specific_codes_exist.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 17:08 GMT My left rear wheel is rattling something fierce. I pushed down on the rear end and it sinks quit easliy. I was thinking I'd by some rear shocks online and have a garage here put them on. It's quit straightforward isn't it so no need for a Volvo mech? Any recomendations? The car is an 850r so I want something decent. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277044/850/rear_struts.html?rss=1 Tue, 13 May 2008 22:39 GMT Is ther any reason to buy an oem mount or will an aftermarket do? they are a lot cheaper. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277295/850/rear_shocks.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 00:10 GMT I replaced my struts and rear shocks with Bilstein HDs about three years ago and used mounts from FCP Groton. No problems at all. And very pleased with the Bilsteins. I put the struts on one day, drove a bit on some errands, then the rear shocks. Amazed at what a difference the rear shocks made.%0A--%0A96 850T, Bilstein HD, IPD swaybars-HD endlinks http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277494/850/rear_shocks.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 19:56 GMT Hi,%0D%0A%0D%0AI've got some cracks in the driver's seat cover and want to fix it with something like Leatherique. Now, where the leather is cracked, I can see this canvas backing and the whole thing looks kinda synthetic to me. Real leather or fake? I know I could burn a little piece to find out... Has anyone used leatherique to fix 850 seats? %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for any info.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0A'97 850 n/a Wagon, 150K mi http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1276117/850/real_leather_seats.html?rss=1 Thu, 8 May 2008 19:26 GMT VC,%0D%0A%0D%0AThe seats have foam padding attached and you may be seeing the mesh covering of that.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, the seat heaters are covered with a mesh like material that may appear to be canvas.%0D%0A%0D%0ALeatherique products are excellent. %0D%0A%0D%0AIf the tear is through, then it will have to be backed for structural integrity. Their site provides decent instructions for making repairs.%0D%0A%0D%0AI used their crack filler and dye on the driver's seat of my S70 with good results.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe key is to maintain the leather--keep it cleaned and hydrated. I clean and condition the leather in my car every 4 months and wipe it down with a damp cloth every month.%0D%0A%0D%0AEnjoy.%0D%0ABryan http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277464/850/real_leather_seats.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 16:51 GMT Styling obviously varies, but do these parts attach in the same places? Will the bumper cover from an XC70 fit my V70? Would simplify looking for used body parts. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277351/V70/p2_bumper_covers_air_guides_etc_interchangeable.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 02:34 GMT My arm rest has broken off and the plastic panel that holds the driver's seat controls is broken. Where can I find used parts to fix my broken armrest and side panel?%0D%0A--%0D%0ALeon Ramseur, Gastonia, NC, 2008 XC90. 2001 V70T5. 1993 940 Wagon. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1270271/V70/need_used_arm_rest_parts_driver_side_panel.html?rss=1 Wed, 9 Apr 2008 01:55 GMT I leaned on the armrest when entering the car. It just tore off, leaving a big hole where the hinge attached. I going to wrap some wire loom around the wiring to the rear seat electrical outlet, bend some cardboad blocking in there and spray some foam inside to support the plastic and try JB Weld to stick it back together. JB Weld worked well on an air guide that cracked.%0D%0AThe armrest design always had too much side to side flex. One model (XC70?) has a rail on the passenger side of the console. I've wondered if offer additional support to the console lid. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277346/V70/fixing_broken_arm_rest.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 02:18 GMT Need a front end alignment on my 1998 S70 GLT, 158K miles. Went to Midas, and they said they couldn't do my particular car. Why not? What are my alternatives? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1275577/S70/midas_alignment.html?rss=1 Tue, 6 May 2008 02:58 GMT I have firestone lifetime on mine. Usually about $140 and they will align it for as long as you own the car. Now if your not keeping it more than a year or two that does not make sense. I take mine in about twice a year. Never cost me a dime after the first time. %0D%0A%0D%0ANot sure why they wont do your car.... never heard of that issue with the s70. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277342/S70/midas_alignment.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 02:12 GMT So I just started drving a 2.5T V70 with 17" tires, and I noticed that the car seems lower in front than my 850, and also it seems to "bottom out" more easily when hitting bumps while turning. I had the 16" on the 850, and the clearance wasn't perfect in the wheelwell - occasionally the front tires would rub on the splash shield under the same conditions. So I guess the symptoms are a bit different, but the bottom line is I still have to travel with more care than other cars when performing low speed turns that include a bump or slope in the pavement.%0D%0A%0D%0AHas anyone else compared the two, or can anyone advise on the tendency of the 2.5T's front suspension to reach the extreme of its travel under moderate conditions? I'm not driving like Mario here...%0D%0A%0D%0AThe car has 45K miles on it, but there is not telling how hard the bumps were it was subjected to. My indy inspected it today and said the suspension was in good shape.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks in advance. Don '05 V70 2.5T http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1270247/V70/front_end_bottoms_even_easier_850t.html?rss=1 Wed, 9 Apr 2008 00:24 GMT Install a skid plate, then look at the suspension. My 2001 V70 T5 w/16" wheels has marginally more ground clearance than my previous 1997 850 GLT Wagon w/15" wheels. I installed Bilstein HD struts and shocks. Certainly not like the the RWD Volvos. I often wonder where all the lowered Volvos are driven? I miss ground clearance. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277336/V70/front_end_bottoms_even_easier_850t.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 02:03 GMT I started to remove it but it seems like it's hung up on something and i dont want to break it.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1273158/S60/remove_pillar_trim_01_s60.html?rss=1 Wed, 23 Apr 2008 18:28 GMT Are you trying to track down a water leak?%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=96945%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277332/S60/remove_pillar_trim_01_s60.html?rss=1 Thu, 15 May 2008 01:43 GMT I like the HD Bilsteins. You may have a bad mount at the top of the shock also. These are easily replaced and do go out. You may need to expose the top of the shocks in the car to check on that.%0D%0A%0D%0Adick http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277052/850/rear_shocks.html?rss=1 Tue, 13 May 2008 23:32 GMT Thanks Klaus for the tip. I checked the A-1 (tranny) port and got two codes. 2-2-3 and 1-4-3. Reset afterward and got 1-1-1 and no light. They had not shown themselves prior to the dead battery and corroded cable, afterwhich the trans arrow flashed during the first drive after the fix. Fingers crossed they don't come back. Now to find out what they meant.%0D%0A%0D%0ACheers,%0D%0A%0D%0AErwin in Roanoke http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277287/850/cleared_a1_port.html?rss=1 Wed, 14 May 2008 22:41 GMT My '95 855T has the CEL lit but no error codes in A-2. I get 1-1-1. A little history; The car isn't used much as I have a company car. While I was out of town my wife tried to use it and ran the battery down cranking it. The battery lead to the electronics had corroded through so nothing but the starter was working.%0D%0A%0D%0AI fixed that, charged the battery and had a bunch of weirdness for the first drive. The trans arrow was flashing and the CEL came on. The trans arrow turned off next time out but the CEL still comes on about 15 seconds after starting the car. I mistakenly tried to read codes in the A-7 port prior to getting my notes out and going to the A-2.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny suggestions in clearing the CEL? Since moving to Virginia the tag has expired and I need to get it inspected. No emissions test but general safety inspection. The CEL could be an issue so I'd like to turn it off prior to inspection.%0D%0A%0D%0AI've always been able to pull codes, repair the problem and clear the codes. With 1-1-1, or "No Error", I can't clear the light.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AErwin in Roanoke http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277055/850/cel_111_cant_clear.html?rss=1 Tue, 13 May 2008 23:48 GMT We have a 1997 V40 which when started, there is a continous clunk/thump from behind the dash. Am I right in thinking this is the recirc motor damper arm failure and will We have to remove the dash to repair? Is it possible to diable the flap in the "un-recirc mode"?%0D%0A--%0D%0ATek http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277004/S40-V40/v40_recirculator_motor_thumpclunk.html?rss=1 Tue, 13 May 2008 19:34 GMT When you forst start the car, the climate control opens and closes all of the dampers to make sure they work. If yours continues to make noise, take off the kick plate cover and find out what is making the noise.%0D%0AIt could be something hitting the fan?%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AThe 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277119/S40-V40/v40_recirculator_motor_thumpclunk.html?rss=1 Wed, 14 May 2008 04:02 GMT I have a detailed answer I got from the VPCUK website so I will paste it for everyone to read now.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe problem is that a snail gear is pulled of the motor and it doesnt engage the gears properly. If you want to save some money you can fix this by yourself. You will have to drill 2 small holes in the dash behind the glove box. They will not be visible at all after you are done. %0D%0A%0D%0AThis is how you can do it: %0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A1. First remove the dash bottom cover on the passenger side (two screws). %0D%0A2. Unscrew two screws on the hinges of the glove compartment and remove the glove compartment. %0D%0A3. Unscrew the 3 screws on the wall behind the glove compartment. %0D%0A4. Pop out the round plastic plug on bottom of the dash on left side. And unscrew the 10mm screw behind it. %0D%0A5. To gain acces to the same screw on the left of the passenger side you will have to unscrew and remove the lining on the left side of the middle console. Only one screw, it's easy to find. %0D%0A6. After you have unscrewed the 10mm hex screw on the left side use flat screwdriver to pop off the metal bar you just unscrewed with the hex screws and push it aside or take it out completely. This will give you some extra room for your hands. Trust me, you will need it. %0D%0A7. Now take a very short philipshead screwdriver, Pull the dash away so much that you can reach in from the right side under the side window air vent. %0D%0AYou should see the servo's plastic housing with a cable coming in from the top right and white plastic arm protrouding from the front left. This motor is secured with 3 screws. One on top right and two on the bottom left. %0D%0AFind the top screw and unscrew it. %0D%0A8. There is no room to unscrew the two bottom screws this way. You would have to take out the whole dash to do it properly, but you can do it this way. %0D%0ADrill two holes in the top right corner of the wall behind the glove compartment. First one about a centimeter from the top and almost tight to the right wall (the only concern is, that you will still need room for the screwdriver handle when unscrewing the crew). Second hole should be about 3 cm to the left and at the same height. For the right possition of both holes, reach behind the dash and feel the screws. I used a 15mm router drilling bit just because it makes clean holes and I had ruber plugs that fitted the holes perfectly plus I was guessing the location of the screws so I figured this way I can get more manuvering space. %0D%0A9. Now unscrew the two screws %0D%0A10. Turn the white plastic arm a bit so that it disengages the metal rod and pull out the servo. %0D%0A11. On the servo housing you will find plastic clips that hold it together. Carefully pry them away and open the housing as far as you can. (be carefull. they are very easy to break). %0D%0A12. There are 3 plastic gears in there plus a snail gear on the motor and the part that moves the arm. Try to figure out how they are assembled so that you will be able to put them back after. You might have some trouble getting the housing to open fully. This is because of the partial gear on the arm. it is cought behind another gear wich has to pass by the snail gear on the motor before it will pop open. Try to pry it apart but be carefull not to break anything. %0D%0A13. After you have opened the housing you will notice, that the snail gear on the motor axle has been pulled off center. This is why the motor was just clicking. Push the gear back on so that it is in center of the gear wich engages it when assembled. %0D%0A14. Now pull out the metal axels on wich the gears were and stick them in the holes of the lid. Reassemble all the gears and join the top and bottom parts. The clips will lock nicely if you did it properly. %0D%0A15. reverse all the steps to reassemble. %0D%0A%0D%0AP.S.: Dont worry about the alighnment of the arm. It will turn to the proper position when you engage the recirc button. %0D%0A%0D%0Apps. it does work as i have already fixed 2 v40s%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck!%0A--%0ATek http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1277263/S40-V40/v40_recirculator_motor_thumpclunk.html?rss=1 Wed, 14 May 2008 20:51 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/