http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:32 GMT Sat, 7 Nov 2009 17:32 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 15 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. The replacement is fairly cheap and pop-rivets in place in mere moments. The parts guy at my dealer put one on my car in no time flat, and seemed to enjoy doing it.%0A--%0A01 V70 2.4 M5 and a Mini http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1374737/s60_fuel_lid.html?rss=1 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 08:44 GMT Hi all, my gold s60 2002 fuel lid (gold cover that covers the fuel cap). the plastic part is broken so my lid keeps falling off every time I fill up for gas & then i have to manually close it & wait for the lock to engage after i drive off for it to stay on, any thoughts out there?? http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1373106/s60_fuel_lid.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 Sep 2009 14:13 GMT Hello%0D%0AI've just bought my third and newest Volvo - 1992 240. Great shape! Old and grey like me. 195,000k. It likes to stall when I depress the clutch and brake to stop after I drive it hard right away or when I come off the highway. Any ideas? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1350236/1992_stalls.html?rss=1 Sun, 24 May 2009 03:58 GMT Welcome to the Brickboard.%0D%0AYou probably need to post this in the RWD forum. This is the "aftermarket" forum.%0D%0ARegards,%0D%0AWebb http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1356976/1992_stalls.html?rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 02:18 GMT Bross in Sweden carries body kits for 200 series. Bring plenty of Kroner, especially by the time you have it shipped to your location. Good luck, and you'll be doing hot rod engine mods to your brick before you know it! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1349521/body_kit_volvo_240.html?rss=1 Tue, 19 May 2009 16:17 GMT I am new so I'm not sure if I entered my question right, so this may be a duplicate, sorry. All the sites I find relating to body kit , say they offer the kit for volvo 240, until you open the site, and then enter or select 240, 1993, then the window that opens states, sorry no item found. This has become very annoying to where , I give up. I don't do to bad for a country boy at age 65 whom just a few years ago got into computers. I purchased this 240 a couple of years ago to save mileage on my 2004 silverado, which I have just made the last payment. I have came to realize and apreciate the 240 to where I have almost rebuilt it. The interior is like new. When I am done with the exterior, new paint, 5 spoke 16 in. alloy wheels, and hopefully some sort of low profile body kit, this is going to be a sharp looker. Please reply http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1347895/body_kit_volvo_240.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 May 2009 23:36 GMT What color are you spraying? We want pictures!%0D%0A%0D%0AThe lower door mouldings are just on with double sided tape. The beltline and rocker trim are held on with clips with holes in the body. I don't know how most fill those holes. My first thought would be cut small pieces of sheet, not much bigger than the opening, then tack a piece of welding rod to it, making a "handle". This is a backing plate of sorts. Slip it into the hole and weld over the opening. Good application for a TIG welder, not so much for a MIG or stick welder.%0D%0A%0D%0AI'll make a plea to reconsider getting rid of the beltline trim. I think 240s look funny without it. With no trim there's just a straight line bulge in the middle of the door, like something is missing. Perhaps you would consider trim from an earlier 240 that is slightly smaller. Trouble is it may be tough to find, especially in good usable condition.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1348345/240_paint_job_minor_customizing.html?rss=1 Mon, 11 May 2009 14:57 GMT can anyone answer/advise on eliminating side moldings and lower door/rocker covers and most importantly the best way to weld up/cover up trim snap holes. I am having the car entirely repainted and installing turbo alloy wheels. I want the cleaner look with no moldings. does any one have experience with this.I have found some partial pictures of this, but need more info.It is a 93 240. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1347443/240_paint_job_minor_customizing.html?rss=1 Tue, 5 May 2009 12:24 GMT Most of us here are more interested in keeping our bricks clean and in good running condition rather than going to the aftermarket for styling. Body kits for the 240 must exist -I've seen them in pictures- but those cars usually have Swedish license plates. You may need to brush up on your Swedish and break out the currency converter to get what you're looking for.%0D%0A%0D%0A<a href="http://www.ipdusa.com/default.asp?">IPD</a> sells all sorts of things for the 240 ranging from very useful to the completely unnesecary but not body kits. Worth a look if you don't already know them.%0D%0A%0D%0AMaybe someone over on <a href="http://www.turbobricks.com/">TurboBricks</a> would be in a better position to point you in the right direction?%0D%0A%0D%0A-Will http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1348342/body_kit_volvo_240.html?rss=1 Mon, 11 May 2009 14:42 GMT Try www.turbobricks.com.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe guys over there get rather more radical with their styling projects, and I know several have done exactly what you want. %0D%0A%0D%0AI guess the easiest way would be to back the holes with something and use body filler, but I wouldn't trust that not to crack and fall out. The best way would be, I suppose, to weld the holes up, or maybe tack on a strip of metal to back the hole, then lead load the holes, and sand it back to flush. %0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1347471/240_paint_job_minor_customizing.html?rss=1 Tue, 5 May 2009 14:46 GMT Hello this is my first post. I bought a new radiator and received it today. Upon closer inspection of which models it would fit, I'm afraid I may have gotten the wrong one. I have a 2000 s70 glt. The website said that this particular radiator would fit a 2000 base, 5cyl, 2.4l. So my question is, does the trim level e.g. "glt" have an effect on whether a radiator will fit? http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1337708/radiator.html?rss=1 Sat, 14 Mar 2009 18:22 GMT On the 1985 Volvo 240 DL, how to you replace radio with an after market radio? What will you need for the job? http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1335475/aftermarket_radio_1985_240_dl.html?rss=1 Wed, 4 Mar 2009 13:08 GMT Moved to 900 series forum%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1330862/lurch_brakes_applied.html?rss=1 Tue, 10 Feb 2009 04:07 GMT i really want some new tailights for my 2008 s40 2.4i. does anyone know where to find black or clear lights. my search networks dont exactly pull up the good sites. im new to the volvo community, and would love to have some suggestions of comanies to use if and when i tune her up. companies and sites http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1314442/aftermarket_tailights_2008_s40_help.html?rss=1 Mon, 17 Nov 2008 01:12 GMT Since none of us have ever seen what you refer to, I suggest you consult somebody with better %0D%0Acredentials than "someone" and who knows for sure what the impact is/will be.%0D%0AIt would most certainly be cheaper than walking into a money pit!%0A--%0AGeorge Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1314220/oil_leak.html?rss=1 Sat, 15 Nov 2008 13:57 GMT I'm looking to purchase a 2001 XC70 with 105,000 miles. There is an oil leak which someone told me could be caused by the crank carrier leaking. Is this common and does this need to be fixed soon? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1310977/oil_leak.html?rss=1 Wed, 29 Oct 2008 20:51 GMT Replacing shocks should make a noticeable difference on their own. %0D%0A%0D%0AI don't think it's critical to replace the strut mounts unless yours are wearing out (when I had to replace the strut mounts in my 245 there'd be a clunk in the front end when I had the steering turned almost to the lock, like when turning into a parking space).%0D%0A%0D%0AI've replaced the rear springs on a few bricks I've owned and have always found that to be a decent return on investment. Leveling up the ride gets the steering and rear-end geometry back where they ought to be which also usually makes some clunks and weirdness disappear, and fixing that saggy rear end is always nice on those occasions you're carrying backseat passengers. Rear springs aren't terribly expensive.%0D%0A%0D%0AI've also replaced all the front-end suspension bushings on my 740 (the kit from ipd) and was quite pleased with the improvement - suddenly the steering felt accurate again! Since you'll have the front end apart anyway and will need an alignment, it's a good time to do the bushings while you're at it. In retrospect I wish I'd replaced the rear bushings as well, but apparently it's a bit of a bear to do so I let it slide. Next year...%0D%0A%0D%0Aregards,%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0ABruce http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1310609/strut_hardware_replace_struts.html?rss=1 Tue, 28 Oct 2008 07:29 GMT I'm having my mechanic change the shocks and struts on my '93 240 (195k). What would you recommend changing in addition that will help it's road manners for not much more additional cost? Strut mounts? Bushings? I'm no mechanic, but want to get the most bang for the buck while he has things apart. Thanks for the help!!!! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1305066/strut_hardware_replace_struts.html?rss=1 Tue, 30 Sep 2008 17:21 GMT I'm not a 740 expert, but I recall that the issue is more of model years. At some time in the 740's run, there was a change in rotor size. You don't say what model year you have, nor from what model year you are contemplating the use of wheels. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1302605/imortant_model_years_rotor_size_changed_recall.html?rss=1 Thu, 18 Sep 2008 16:16 GMT What should be a simple question: will wheels for a 740 turbo go on a 740 non-turbo? %0D%0A%0D%0AYour perspectives please.%0D%0A%0D%0Awai http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1302017/wheels_740.html?rss=1 Mon, 15 Sep 2008 18:13 GMT I recently bought a 2005 xc90. The pasenger side seat is peeling and cracking. Is there a conditioner of sorts I could use to stop this from happening any further? http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1301899/2005_xc90_cracked_passenger_seat.html?rss=1 Sun, 14 Sep 2008 23:40 GMT I have a 99 S80 that the remote FOB will lock but not unlock the door locks. We have to use the key in the door to unlock the car. The problem first started with one remote 6 months ago. Now it is a problem with both remotes. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe switch on the drivers door panel will sometimes not work and will occasionally not unlock the gas cap door. The unlock button on both FOB's appears to be flat or sunken unlike the other buttons. Is this relevent?%0D%0A%0D%0AAny help would be appreciated. Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1300684/99s80_remote_lock_unlock_problem.html?rss=1 Tue, 9 Sep 2008 01:47 GMT I don't but there are bunches of them in Europe.%0D%0ALooks like CNG is the way to go, especially if you can cough up the $$ for a%0D%0Ahome compressor. Downside is that the tank is big and at very high pressure%0D%0A(3600 psi, I think). CNG filling stations are kinda rare also and not all take%0D%0Aeither cash or credit cards.%0A--%0AGeorge Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1298365/restoring_volvo_140_alternative_fuel_vehicle.html?rss=1 Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:06 GMT I need to rebuild or buy an engine for my 140 and then I would like it to run on Natural gas or LPG. does anyone have the experience for this.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1298121/restoring_volvo_140_alternative_fuel_vehicle.html?rss=1 Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:54 GMT Stan,%0D%0AYou posted this in the "aftermarket" forum. I found it by accident!%0D%0APlease repost this in the All/front wheel drive section and you will get better results.%0D%0A%0D%0ABTW, do you not have an owners manual. The dealer will sell you one for around $25 and then you can figure out how to flip the seats forward.%0D%0A%0D%0AThat "engine" light is a severe problem!!! Stop by an auto parts store and ask them to read the engine codes for you, or find a good Volvo garage to do the same. A dealer will charge you to read the codes, but put those charges into the bill if he gets to fix it for you.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0D%0A--%0D%0AI still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :) http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1288997/c70_front_seat_problems.html?rss=1 Sat, 12 Jul 2008 02:12 GMT Hi guys%0D%0A%0D%0AI have a 1999 C70 2.5 auto, my problem is that both the front seats will not tip forward, I have tried tugging on the orange strap and obviously the lever on the side and bashing the seat to death but they will not tip forward, odd that both are like that?%0D%0AMy other problem is a warning light on the dash, the picture of the engine block is illuminated (orange) apparently it means an electrical fault somewhere in the engine but it is running fine, any ideas?%0D%0AIt is my first Volvo and I am well impressed a real nice car but she does like a drink so I cant afford to go to the local dealer for help%0D%0A%0D%0APaul (stantheman) the man that cant http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1288836/c70_front_seat_problems.html?rss=1 Fri, 11 Jul 2008 03:37 GMT Unfornately, you can't buy the headlights from any Volvo dealer (even by special order) in this country -- only overseas dealers can obtain them.%0D%0A%0D%0AFrom personal experience, I can only give you the source from whom I got the first, inferior (JBAuto) brand; remember that my daughter was able to get me (had them shipped) my second set, the better Volvo-Cibie units, when she was in Europe in-person -- I don't know any overseas dealers (except for KGTrimning, below).%0D%0A&#091I am a member of the Volvo Owners Club of the U.K. and see dealer ads in their magazine, but that won't help because the U.K. has lamps for driving on the wrong side of the road -- don't buy U.K. optics!&#093%0D%0AThe first set, however, was ordered from%0D%0Ahttp://www.buvic.com/car/forsale/lights/index.html%0D%0AI don't know if he can also sell you Volvo-Cibie brand lamps.%0D%0A%0D%0AHowever, although I can't recommend them from personal experience, I have heard that these guys sell them, too:%0D%0Ahttp://www.kgtrimning.com/defaultE.htm%0D%0AGo to their download catalog webpage, and on page 90 you should find the lamps.%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, from time to time, you can find them used on eBay.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck. And have a Happy Fourth!!!%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1287155/sources.html?rss=1 Thu, 3 Jul 2008 14:22 GMT Yes thanks the for informative post. If you say that he volvo original equipment brand of headlights is higher quality than i am willing to pay the extra money. You absolutely right in the fact that my headlights shine about a cars length in front of my car and not any farther. Would you happen to know of any reliable websites to get these headlights. Or should i go through the volvo dealership http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1287115/basically_two_brands_review_herein.html?rss=1 Thu, 3 Jul 2008 06:12 GMT I want to put in brighter headlights than the halogens my 1989 240 DL has right now. I dont want Silvania silver stars. I was thinking of those Eurolight Xenon gas bulbs since those are the next best thing to HID's or so iv'e read. I am not very good with cars but i am willing to learn. My question is can i just put those Eurolight bulbs in (if they even make some that fit my volvo) and they work or do i have to have to get in there and put in a kit and rewire stuff. Can someone maybe direct me to a reliable sight that sells them? http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1286027/headlights.html?rss=1 Fri, 27 Jun 2008 23:06 GMT Glad to hear that you're looking for Euroheadlights. There are two generally two brands available -- and I have both.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe poorer one is marked "JBAuto" in the lower corner of the headlight's lens. The optics is far, far better than the US-market headlights, and if you've never had e-codes (in place of sealed beams) you'll be amazed at the benefits of the European lighting pattern, in both high beam but especially in low beam -- it's as if you've been blind until now. They're certainly worth the money, but don't pay premium prices for them because, as I've said, they're the poorer of the two brands. I bought them first, and put them on my wife's '93 (I wanted her to have the benefits more than me) -- but quickly discovered their quality was disappointing in the following ways:%0D%0A1) the optics were a little blotchy -- i.e., there are distracting non-uniform shadows in the illuminated field which I find distracting, compared with the smooth, uniform illuminated fields of the Cibie-brand e-codes (sealed beam replacements) that I've used for (literally) several decades.%0D%0A2) the adjusters for aiming the reflector are stiff and balky -- they don't move smoothly and tend to actually get stuck and require some brute force.%0D%0A3) I experienced a failure of the internal nylon connector (between the aiming screw and the tip of the reflector) while first aiming the headlights that required "down time" while I got a replacement (fortunately, they're available from US dealers, p/n 1307452-1, $1.94 each) and opened the housing and replaced it.%0D%0A4) Worst of all, though, the mounting studs on the back (they hold the headlight onto the car) fail -- they're merely pressed into holes in the plastic housing, and (in my case) soon pulled out, leaving the headlights to literally dangle, held only by the wiring! Yes, my wife drove into the garage one day and I watched with horror as the headlights were protruding a few inches forward, resting on the bumper! I had to glue the studs back into place (and fortunately, they've now held for several years).%0D%0ASo, I repeat that they're far better than anything you have now in your car and therefore worth some investment, but they're not worth a *large* investment -- if you have to pay a lot, consider the alternative brand.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe second brand is the Volvo original equipment (boxes may be marked "Valeo") that came from the factory on European market cars -- the headlight lenses will be clearly marked Cibie! They are expensive -- my daughter, a lawyer, bought them for me as a birthday present (after hearing my comments on Mom's headlights) while on a business trip to Europe (she didn't tell me how much they cost, but I know it was a lot!) and I put them on my own '93. They are top of the line in quality in every way. Their optics are smooth/uniform, every bit as good as the e-codes I've always used; the adjusters work smooth as butter, and the studs are *molded* deep into the plastic so they cannot be pulled out without literally breaking the plastic housing!%0D%0A%0D%0AI would suggest having your friend (the one going to Belgium) get a price on the JBAuto brand and on the Volvo-Cibie brand, and then let you decide based on what you can afford. But in either case, remember that these are far, far better than your US headlights.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1286398/basically_two_brands_review_herein.html?rss=1 Sun, 29 Jun 2008 23:42 GMT HI.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy name is jeremy and i am in New Jersey, USA. I once owned a 1990 volvo 240 DL and i hooked it up. Before i sold the car four years ago i took some parts off and they have been sitting in my basement covered over for the whole time. I figured i would post what i had on here and hopefully someone might have a use or interest in what i got.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs far as prices go, you make me an offer and we go from there and be reasonable please.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe parts are:%0D%0A%0D%0A- Drive and Passenger front door armrest - black.%0D%0A- Head rests for the back seat (left and right headrests) - black%0D%0A- Driverside headlight fiberglass eyelids - I have two of them but no passenger side ones.%0D%0A- 100% Clear tail lights with brand new gaskets, circuit boards and colored bulbs (a full set right and left)%0D%0A- Clear headlight covers made by Wade, never used as i bought them and found they didnt fit my headlights at the time, since before i had bought euro headlights and the covers only work on domestic models.%0D%0A- Vent Cover for fender - Not fully functional, just for looks - black%0D%0A- Stock tail lights with circuit boards but no bulbs or gaskets. - fully functional, no cracks or faded portions.%0D%0A- 4 NGK Spark Plugs bought from www.IPDUSA.com in their box and never used.%0D%0A- Reverse Replacement lenses - I have two of them.%0D%0A- Front Blinker/Running Light Covers - The corners - I have a full pair of clear domestic (this domestic version has no orange pieces on them) and a full pair of euro version as well. a pair meaning i have the left and right ones. The domestic ones were on the car originally and I bought the Euro ones but never got the chance to put them on the car.%0D%0A- Wiper arms and blades - the left and right ones, a full set - silver.%0D%0A- Upper chassis braces from ipdusa.com but missing mounting hardware.%0D%0A%0D%0AWel, i hope this list is extensive enough. I hope someone out there is interested in these items. I can ship via ups from my work or via usps if needed or you can come by and pick them up or i can meet you somewhere and go from there. my email is whiterabbitmovies@rock.com if you want to contact me directly for photos and other info if needed.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks Again for taking you time to read this.%0D%0A%0D%0AJeremy Hill http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1287104/volvo_240_stock_aftermarket_parts_sale.html?rss=1 Thu, 3 Jul 2008 04:06 GMT Thanks for the detailed description. The ebay ones referenced above are neither. They are made by AstralAutoHersteller. I've searched and have only found questions regarding these particular lamps.%0D%0A%0D%0AI think I might give them a try - they certainly can't be worse than the faded factory set on the car now.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1286694/basically_two_brands_review_herein.html?rss=1 Tue, 1 Jul 2008 01:57 GMT informative post, thanks. I am searching for replacements for my 86 and am thinking of these:%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EUROPEAN-H4-HEADLIGHTS-for-VOLVO-240-245-243-86-93_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ023QQitemZ360065820115QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW%0D%0A%0D%0ADoes anybody have experience with these? I also have a friend in Belgium looking for me, but these at least seem good on paper.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AJeff http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1286359/theyre_going_bit_real_good_poor_optical_design.html?rss=1 Sun, 29 Jun 2008 21:03 GMT The real problem with the USA-market/DOT-legal, plastic headlights is their optical design, not the output (candlepower, etc.) of the bulb inside.%0D%0A%0D%0AThese plastic-lens headlights were designed in the last years of the DOT's insistance on regs that have limited ordinary sealed beams for many decades. Essentially, in low beam, the bulk of the output gets aimed uselessly downward at the pavement about a carlength in front of the car -- on a dark street, look at where the brightest patch is shining. And the high beam is really no better -- it creates a diffuse (deliberately, to eliminate "glare", according to the DOT, for other drivers) slight brightening ahead, but not by much.%0D%0AThus, if you put in brighter lamps, all you'll really do is just brighten the useless patch of light on the pavement in low beam, and slightly brighten the diffuse light ahead in high beam. Trouble is, you'll also draw more current through your car's wiring, switches and relays as well, shortening the life of the insulating and contacts -- and particular, in your model year, there's a "headlight relay" behind the center dash panel's vents that's notorious for "cooking" and shutting down your headlights, so using brighter bulbs (unless you go for parallel, heavier gauge wiring and relays) will just destroy it sooner.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn contrast, the right (though very expensive) solution is Euroheadlights (the headlights found in European-market 240s). Even with the lowest wattage bulbs (55/60W), they are far superior simply because of their properly designed optics! These are now found in even USA-market cars (like my daughter's new S60), but unfortunately getting the 240's headlights in their european form is costly. Frankly, I've use e-code headlights (that's the name for the european counterpart of sealed beams) on my cars since the 1970's, and just wouldn't drive without them -- when I got my first post-'85 Volvo (which no longer used sealed beams for which I could swap in e-codes), I bought Euroheadlights, despite their price, because I just couldn't tolerate the US-market lamps. I have these Euroheadlights in both of my post-'85 cars, and e-code replacements for sealed beams in the '84 I still have.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat is superior about them is, specifically, that their optics direct the light where a driver needs them, yet doesn't interfere with others on the road in low beam. It really isn't the matter of being plastic (although the Euroheadlights are glass) even though it prevents the yellowing, but where the light is aimed. In Euroheadlights and the aforementioned e-codes, the light, even in low beam, is directed forward to light up the roadway ahead. The low beam has a sharp cutoff, though (requiring proper aiming) that rises along a slope to the right to also illuminate things (deer, pedestrians, etc.) on the road's edge that might be a potential hazard; yet the cutoff prevents the light from blinding cars ahead. And, in high beam, it directs the light usefully to give you good range to stop in time!%0D%0A%0D%0ASo it isn't a matter of wattage, but of optical design. Throwing more wattage in US-market, plastic headlights will just disappoint you, as well as create problems with your electrical system.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1286113/headlights.html?rss=1 Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:51 GMT Where can I get a window sticker for a 1998 V70?%0D%0AI called Volvo and no help.%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0AJeff 317 502 6519 http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1278862/window_sticker.html?rss=1 Thu, 22 May 2008 20:42 GMT I have a 1987 gl AT with a B230K engine with a cylinder head of a B230FT using the original normally apirated Solex Cisac carburetor. Is there a way to install the turbo system of a B230 FT engine? http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1278516/b230k_turbo_setup_doable.html?rss=1 Wed, 21 May 2008 08:16 GMT Find yourself a 740/940 turbo engine with all of the electronics already in place. A NA engine is not set for the torque produced with a turbo, besides you will need to lower the compression and do a lot of other changes.%0D%0AIf you currently have an auto tranny, look for the above with a manual shifter for the most fun.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AThe 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :) http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1272809/1989_240_non_turbo_engine_conversion.html?rss=1 Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:39 GMT would it be a basic engine swasp or would i have to change fuel lines/electronics/ other bs. i was also debating on just building a high compression non turbo setup, and was wondering if turbo cylinder heads are compatible with a non turbo motor. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1263852/1989_240_non_turbo_engine_conversion.html?rss=1 Sun, 9 Mar 2008 22:09 GMT Visit www.turbobricks.com and read everything you find there concerning the B230F+T conversion. It has been done, but you've got to know what you are doing and you've got to spend the money to do it right. Knock sensing ignition retard is mandatory.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0AMr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1264423/compression_ratios_research.html?rss=1 Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:52 GMT Turbo engines usually have a lower compression ratio, not a higher one, because the higher turbo pressures in a high compression engine can be destructive.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1264414/compression_ratios_research.html?rss=1 Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:18 GMT One night I put the car('87 740GLE) in the garage and next day it would not start. Spark is OK but no gas. Have changed the gas pump relay and had the pump checked. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1263604/start.html?rss=1 Sat, 8 Mar 2008 18:51 GMT hello%0D%0Aif they are/were touring class, many have had this problem no matter what you torque them to.%0D%0Agoood luck%0D%0AMke http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1252781/bilsteins.html?rss=1 Mon, 21 Jan 2008 00:30 GMT I learned my lesson. Put on a pair of rear Bilstein Lifetime Warrenteed shocks and wouldn't ya know, comes a ratteling noise about 12K miles later. Afterlooking for the annoying noise for months, I find out that it's the 'eye tube' in the upper grommet that is worn on the mounting stud. Now, I wouldn't have guessed because the mounting stud had no signs of wear but running it thru the 'eye' I found significant wobble. Taking a new pair of different shocks and performing the same high tech test, found a lot less wobble. Now, after discussing this with a rep from Mr Bilstein, I have dicovered that the torque specs for that operation is 62 pounds. Anything less would probably cause a situation as so described. Since I know that in my high tech world they were installed at more than 62 pounds, I guess I'm at fault. So much for paying attention to torque specs guys. Did I mention the specs are not included in the box? So Ya need to look em up. Oh yeah...the KYB's I put on, don't rattle.%0D%0AAnyone need a really goodlooking pair of Bilsteins for a 244 Turbo? You can pick em up in my trash barrel. They rattle a little, but the price is right. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1239775/bilsteins.html?rss=1 Thu, 6 Dec 2007 23:11 GMT 1989+up RWD T-Bird and Cougar wheels have the same pattern. I tried a Cougar wheel on my 240. They fit the rear fine, but the front hub is too thick to use. Depending on what year and if you have ABS, they may fit yours.%0D%0A Ben http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1249620/ford_taurus_wheels.html?rss=1 Fri, 11 Jan 2008 01:27 GMT I have found that ford taurus wheels have the same bolt pattern as the 240 model,5x108mm. The backspacing is off about an inch,though. There are many companies on ebay that sell adapter/ spacers for four,about $140. It would be a less expensive way to convert to 15,or 16 inch wheels. The taurus mini spares work as is , however. http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1248490/ford_taurus_wheels.html?rss=1 Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:14 GMT The adapters/spacers are available for $139 contact: wheeladapters@aol.com http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1248565/ford_taurus_wheels.html?rss=1 Mon, 7 Jan 2008 16:59 GMT I think chains are going to be overkill. With 4 studded snow tires, you'll be able to power through snow up to the bumper. Any deeper than that, and even chains aren't going to help, because you'll be accumulating a pile of snow in front of you.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust my 2 cents... after adjusting for inflation, still arguably worth that!%0A--%0AJeff Pierce (Post back with your results... it's what makes this forum work.) http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1247104/snow_chains_2000_s80_t6.html?rss=1 Wed, 2 Jan 2008 21:52 GMT I have a 2000 Volvo s80 t6%0D%0AMy manual says I need volvo approved snow chains for my 215/55R-16. They cost around 300. Is there anything else I can use?%0D%0A%0D%0ACan I use any of these?%0D%0Ahttp://www.tirechain.com/P215-55R-16.htm%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1244333/snow_chains_2000_s80_t6.html?rss=1 Sat, 22 Dec 2007 18:43 GMT Haha, awesome!%0D%0A%0D%0ACan you post a pic? Any idea who the previous owner is?%0D%0AAnd where are you at?! :) http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1202975/theyre_far_240_buy.html?rss=1 Sat, 28 Jul 2007 14:13 GMT %0D%0AHi,%0D%0AIm looking for a manual 2xx wagon in a ~350miles radius around Indianapolis.%0D%0A%0D%0AIm moving to the US this fall after finishing my studies in Germany (I am German).%0D%0AMy wife & daughter already moved back to the US in march. She got an old Geo Metro. That thing, though totalled last week is still driving.. but HAS to be replaced with something else. %0D%0AWe would like to get a nice wagon and a smaller sporty something. Maybe a Civic hatchback or so...%0D%0A%0D%0AI personally love Volvos.. I owned a 480 until last month. Friends have a 240 and 740. The 480 isnt the greatest piece of reliability and engineering - but fun to drive.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny offers, hints, tipps on a 240 manual wagon purchase are warmly welcome%0D%0AOh, and Hi to the forum!%0D%0A%0D%0AThank you%0D%0AJan http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/volvo/1196163/looking_240_manual_wagon_buy.html?rss=1 Tue, 3 Jul 2007 12:31 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/