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I think there are two issues. First is the bulb differences, which the product at your link may solve. The second is whether you want the bulb-failure sensor light on when you’re using the trailer. Some like that, as it may show the trailer lights are on (or at least a left/right current imbalance exists).
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Others want it to stay off. To keep it off, the trailer light power needs to come from somewhere NOT served by the bulb-failure sensor. I used a Hidden Hitch #31824 (link below), which takes only relay signals from the rear lights. I took trailer-light power from my unused power-antenna lead in the trunk (on a 1990 244), instead of a new dedicated line from the battery. It tested fine on 5 x 8 UHauls, with both incandescent and LED trailer lights at full brightness.
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Hung the unit from the wire bundle between the spare tire & the tailights. It includes SkotchLok connectors, and 4-feet of wire to the trailer plug (flat-4). The signal leads reach into the left tailight, and a long lead is provided to go across to the right turn signal (unless you can find that wire in the bundle on the left).
http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/untalicowipo.html
Good Luck!
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Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks.
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Trailer Hitch Wiring [200][1985]