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Not true. They might fatigue and need replacing if you cycled them 5+ times, but a single replacement episode is no problem. There are different tightening techniques for early and late bolts. You have the late. If you are reading the instructions in Haynes make sure you're on the right page. Use a known-accurate torque wrench.
Intake and exhaust manifolds must come off, so you'll need both those sets of gaskets. A lot of hoses and wiring gets disconnected/moved when you pull the intake so label things, take notes and photos. You can't just lift the head slightly and slide a new gasket in there. I was happy with the Elring set from FCP-Groton. There's a few pieces you don't need but it has ALL the stuff you do.
You must make sure the cylinder block surface is absolutely clean of old gasket bits and anything else. Block ALL holes while cleaning, being especially careful of the little hole on the exhaust side of the deck, betw. #1/#2 - that's the oil feed passage to the head.
Should probably renew the rubber O-ring that seals the water pump to the head...I think this may be in the Elring kit.
If the gasket failed because of overheating - the usual cause - you should check the head surface for flatness with a machinist's straight edge while it's off. If it's warped, new gasket will fail soon.
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Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD)
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New Headgasket Time! How long does this normally take? [200]