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Howdy Andrew,
Heat soak related faults are almost always resistive contacts. Having said that, it doesn't mean that is your problem, only something I keep in mind when approaching a heat related problem.
Next time it fails to start, clamp one of your booster cables to the body of the starter and the other end of the same cable to the negative terminal of the battery. If the starter turns, look for a defective ground between the starter and engine or engine and chassis. If it does not, you have eliminated that as a possibility.
Notice in the simplified drawing that you can bypass the interlocks at the service wire (pink wire; should be near the firewall, I think). Jumper it to the blue/pink wire on the same connector. If the starter turns with the key in the START position, you've got it narrowed to an interlock problem. (BTW, disconnect that connector and inspect the pins and wires for corrosion while you are there.)
If jumping around the interlock doesn't do it, you will need to start measuring and recording voltages at various points before, during, and after failure mode. The most meaningful first checks will be directly on the starter connections. Then you will know whether the problem is on the 50 line or the 30 line. You may find it advantageous to connect a voltmeter semi-permanently to the starter service connector (50 line) so you can see it from the cockpit.
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 53 year old fat man. ;-)
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Intermittent no crank when engine is hot [900][1992]