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Hi Philip,
I'm wondering why you ignored the advice from "dewfpo"? He was quoting right out of the Volvo manual.
I'm also wondering why you elected to replace a compressor that was "working"? The control works by cycling the compressor to keep a constant pressure drop range at the dryer/reciever. There is no need for a high side pressure reading. Your "advisor" doesn't seem to know how the new Volvo system works. He is assuming the functionality of an older system I think.
In order for the cooling to be optimal in this system you need the proper amount (weight) of R134a and compatible oil in the system. You didn't mention any oil, a new orfice, or new dryer/reciever in your system repair.
I replaced my compressor several years ago because the oil got low leaking by case seals in the compresssor housing. This in turn caused a lot of friction and resulted in broken links at the clutch. At the time of the repalcement I put in new 'O" rings, a new orfic, a reciever/dryer, and replentised the PAG oil. This was followed by a good "vacuuming" and finally with the proper amount of R134a. The system performed flawlessly for a couple more years until the condensor got a hole in it from corrosion. I found the hole using florising dye and a black light. This time after replacing the condensor I only vacuumed the system and installed the amount of R134a as described by dewfpo. I now have a slow leak that I haven't been able to find such that every other year I've been vacuuming the system and replacing the R134a by weight. System has continued to work well with about 41 F degree air from the vents after installing the R134a.
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'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 149K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.
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