Volvo RWD 1800 Forum

This car came to me rather suddenly a week ago last Monday.
I'm trying to get it running.
It came with no carb, Cannon manifold, 4-->1 header, Mallory Unilite distributor, spare
manifolds and bad clutch hydraulics. I've de-plumbed the Cannon, put on the standard 2-carb manifold,
got Jim Taylor here in Bartlesville to refurb a pair of HS6s for me, refurbed the clutch hydraulics,
and generally put a bunch of stuff more or less right.
I was planning to try out the fuel pump by running a 5/16" hose from it to a gas can and a ¼" hose
out of it to a smaller can, then cranking the engine to see if fuel came out.
Problem: No crank.
The electrics have been somewhat modified and the starter is the old type with the solenoid connection to the battery cable pointing 45° up. There is power into the solenoid. There is a wire bundle going to the starter that has two wires (brown and green, I think) going to a big ring lug, which I assume was the main power into the rest of the electrical system. The big ring lug was taped. I untaped it and checked it and it is hot with the ignition on or off, indicating that the replacement red wire from the battery terminal is apparently going to the right place. In this bundle is also a rather fine wire with red and white insulation which seems to be the starter activation wire, judging from where it is connected on the starter.
I checked it with the meter with the switch in the off, on and start positions and it does not seem to get power. Any suggestions other than look at the back of the ignition switch? It does seem to be fairly accessible in this car, unlike a lot of other stuff.
They may be mechanically about the same but the 1800s sure are NOT as easy to work on as the 122s! There is always something in the way!
Any suggestions on this greatly appreciated. I'd like to have the car going when Kent Thompson comes to get it in a week.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Dunno if this it or not, but I just ran into it after putting the motor back into the 245. Wouldn't crank at all, totally inert. I started checking this and that, eventually determined that there was 12V at the main cable on the starter, and 12V to the terminal when the key was in the crank position. Still nothing.

Then I noticed that there was a less prominent spade connection on the starter. Moved the wire to there, cranked perfectly.

EDIT: Ah, I should have read *all* the posts first!

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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t

George,

Do the OIL and GEN lights come on with the key?

At the starter, the white/red wire is coming from the 50 terminal on the keyswitch; it should be hot in START. The brown wire is coming from a 35A fuse (it isn't fused though). At the fuse it is ganged with two more brown wires, one goes to the clock and the other is connected to B+ on the regulator. There should be 2 brown wires on B+ at the regulator, the other one comes from the 30 terminal of the stater. Also at the 30 terminal of the starter you should have the big red wire from the battery.

I don't understand why the one wire was taped up. If it was hot at all times it must be coming directly from the battery and should be connected to the 30 terminal. Was there a new heavy cable installed? If so, why was that one left there?

You mentioned a brown/green wire. That is the field terminal wire and should be connected between the regulator and the generator F terminals. And, of course, D- to D- and to the GEN light.

If the starter big terminal is hot, you should be able to get the starter to turn by shorting across from the 50 terminal (white/red) to the big lug.

Do you have need a wiring diagram? www.volvo1800pictures.com/
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 53 year old fat man. ;-)

The brown wire and the green wire go to the same big terminal and have been replaced but not removed.
I took the lazy man's way out after thinking about it for a while.
I called up Wade Smart, the guy I bought it from and asked him, "Did you install an auxiliary starter switch?"
Answer: "I did! I got tired of breaking off keys!"
It's on a little blue panel just inside the door. With the battery hooked up, it does indeed crank!
After Susan finishes her singing gig tomorrow I'll try it with gas.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hello,

Have you tried a bypassing the starter switch by putting 12v directly to trigger connection?

I have a wired remote starter button with 2 heavy gauge wires for this purpose, but you could use a single jumper wire.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

I thought about that but considering the other stuff works and the big terminal is hot, I smelled a rat.
I called up Wade Smart, the guy I bought it from and asked him, "Did you install an auxiliary starter switch?"
Answer: "I did! I got tired of breaking off keys!"
It's on a little blue panel just inside the door. With the battery hooked up, it does indeed crank!
After Susan finishes her singing gig tomorrow I'll try it with gas.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

I'd start by bypassing the ignition swtich.. feed 12v straight to the solenoid. If no joy, bridge the braided wire between the solenoid and starter and see if the starter turns (of course, it won't engage the gear, but will give you an idea)

Round plugs and brown wires? I guess I can't say without looking, but it was a brown wire that went to the neutral safety switch in my '70 145... But I don't think a '66 would ever have come with an automatic...

Wish I was there.. this one sound like fun!

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Easier'n that!
I called up Wade Smart, the guy I bought it from and asked him, "Did you install an auxiliary starter switch?"
Answer: "I did! I got tired of breaking off keys!"
It's on a little blue panel just inside the door. With the battery hooked up, it does indeed crank!
After Susan finishes her singing gig tomorrow I'll try it with gas.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!