RWD - Crank Sensor question. 240DL
                    

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Crank Sensor question. 240DL 200 1990

As I continue to figure out my sometimes sputtering engine I checked into exploring my crank sensor. Has anyone changed one of these? I tried to take it out to examine it and it won't come out. I removed the 10mm bolt, that was easy. But either it has melted or deformed as I could not remove it and I broke the ear where the bolt goes. In the end I jb welded it back on and put the bolt back.

I did however discover that the wires on both sides of the connector plug were baked. So I then chose to shorten and splice back the wires and reroute them more towards the passenger side of the firewall. Additionally the foil around the sensor wires was missing/damaged. So I used some new aluminum foil and wrapped it up again. I simply cut away part of the plastic sheathing for the wire running back to the ECM side. Mainly what I am worried is if the pickup coil is melted or not? Should it easily come out? If not what else needs to be done to allow it to be removed?




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Work the crank sensor out gently (long) 200 1990

Hi Ken,

I think some of those replying believe you repaired the bracket with JB Weld epoxy, but I somehow read you broke the plastic mounting ear off of the sensor, probably trying to pry it up away from the bracket. If it was that stuck, the epoxy repair and bolt probably were not needed.

You may have bought yourself some time fixing the wires. I've had both failure modes on my cars, most recently, yesterday. Lets go back to a few years ago, when I had one stuck like yours. It was on an 89. I mention that, because getting at the CPS on 89 or 90 240's is a cakewalk compared to the 91-93 versions, and it has to do with the left-handed work with the elbow forced away from the firewall by the A/C gear you can see is in the way on those later cars.



The 89 and 90 give you more elbow room, although I admit I haven't checked out what challenges might exist for those with EGR.



I would soak that sensor and bracket with your favorite penetrant and try to get the jaws of a set of pliers on to begin to gently turn it in the bracket before trying to get it moving upward. The bracket can't be bent at all, much less broken, because it references the sensor's tip position above the holes in the tone ring - a very precise distance. Anything damaging that bracket will have you pulling the tranny.

Here's a shot of a swollen cps next to a new one for comparison. The one I dissected was swollen because water entered, following the cracked wiring inside, rusting the iron core of the reluctor. I was lucky, the swelling wasn't bad, and I was able to work it loose from the bracket as I described above.



Next you see the more typical failure, at least going by what I've read here. This I replaced yesterday, and I spent an hour by the side of the road doing it. Like yours, it was intermittent. The first indication was a momentary loss of power. It happened a couple times pulling the car out of the driveway, after doing unrelated service (replacing rear springs and shocks and radio!) and instead of checking all the OBD codes, I stopped with the fuel computer. A subsequent drive around the neighborhood was uneventful. Basically, I was tired after doing the suspension work, and not thinking well.

Yesterday, 20 miles after the first event, it stranded my daughter just a few miles from home. This time I checked fuel and ignition codes and came up with the cps code, 214. Sure enough, a wiggle on the wire and it started. Further wiggling and it stalled. Had to run back home for the part - one I keep on the shelf to support the five 240's we own with EZ116K ignition.

This sensor was not swollen - the replacement was marked only by the cramps in my left hand and right foot, getting around the A/C accumulator. The necropsy showed oil turned the wire insulation to mush and caused the signal to short to ground when the bared wires touched. This is not a go/nogo problem, but a potentially elusive intermittent. Your OBD will not capture and store this code if the wires separate and the car runs once again, so the OBD was a matter of luck in yesterday's event.





The white wire carries the signal. The red (pink) is the signal return which is tied to ground along with the shield (foil and drain wire) in the EZK ignition computer.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them.




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Work the crank sensor out gently (long) 200 1990

Hmm once again Art you give me a great deal of info. Well first before I continue since I am driving it I plan to get the replacement first.

Basically my cable looks like yours all baked and the foil pulled away. For now I untwisted and shortend it spliced and retwisted and wrapped it in foil as much as I could to help shield it. I also rerouted some towards the passenger side, and moved the connector of the ECM side and also shortend it up too which was also slightly baked.

After doing this much it is actually running better especially on rainy days.
It's never fully quit yet but I think it is the source of erratic rough idle and skipping etc most notable when climbing a hill. Having these great pictures really helps. Fortunately I have without A/C components up at the firewall. Now just need to purchase new one before attempting replacing it. I also need to find some new hood hinges but that is another story.

I am thinking that when I put the new one in I have a can of "liquid electrical tape" that I will treat the wire end of the sensor before installing it. Also I am keeping the wires routed away from the back of the motor.




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Crank Sensor question. 240DL 200 1990



As mentioned, the sensor isn't melted, but probably swollen.

The problem with the original sensors is within the sensor itself... the heat soak from the engine just "upsets" them.

Were you able to get the sensor out?

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Draco Wheels
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars




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Crank Sensor question. 240DL 200 1990

I'm pretty sure the car won't start w/o the CPS signal, so I think it's a go/no go thing. If the car is starting and running, the CPS must be senting its signal to the cpu. I've heard the jb weld fix for a broken mount works so long as the mating surfaces were cleaned up. If I am mistaken I'm sure someone will correct me :)




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Crank Sensor question. 240DL 200 1990

Did it solve your sputtering problem?

If it didn't, I still wouldn't consider your fix a good fix. The sensor may be damaged below the Obvious Stripped insulation.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm




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Crank Sensor question. 240DL 200 1990

It can be a Bitch or it can slip right out. You appear to have the bitchy model. Water is able to get into the inside of the piece you are trying to remove once the sheath is compromised. The water which has now trickled down inside the CPS either expands when frozen or in some other way expands/deforms the end which you then struggle to wriggle out of the that bracket. Lube then slowly twist left and right while pulling upwards GENTLY. Takes some time and patience but it will come. I hope your JB weld fix to the bracket holds as the only way to replace the bracket is to drop the tranny.
Matt




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Crank Sensor question. 240DL 200 1990

The bracket is ok not broken, just the plastic of the sensor. I am buying time on this but now seeing closeup pictures helps a lot.




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