Volvo RWD 200 Forum

Hi All,Well for a couple of days now I keep hearing a clicking sound like my locks are locking and unlocking every time I take off and stop.In the unlocked position if I touch the lock knob it also makes the same sound.Can this be repaired or do I need a new lock system foe the drivers door? Thanks for any help,Charlie

Thanks for all your replies,it was the wires shorting out.Sorry my car is a 85 240ti.I also found the wires on my frt.running lights are missing alot of insulation.I replace the engine harness a while ago.I now have quite a few ft. of wire for anything else that comes up.Can't wait for the next disintegrating adventure.Thanks Charlie

At least no one can say that you've led an insulated life...sorry, I couldn't resist a terrible pun. I'm glad that you found the offending wires. Where would this site be if Volvo had used a bulletproof wiring harness?

You've got a short in the wires that lock/unlock.

Up by the fuse panel, look for a connector with red-grn-blk wires and disconnect. If you don't disconnect then you risk coming out to a flat battery.

In the driver's side door check the wiring to the push-pull switch and the key switch for damage. May also be a switch itself. You can disable the defective switch while keeping the good one in operation.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

Sounds to me like you've been there before.

The wire used on those two switches is the same high-flex silicone-insulated wire used on the passthrough for the OD solenoid, the speed sender on the later cars, and the wagon tailgate harness. Probably more places I can't recall at the moment, like inside the crank position sender cable. It seems to disintegrate, just like the 80's engine harnesses, but maybe for a different reason.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Birds are grouchy in the morning because their bills are over dew.

You didn't mention what year your car is. If your brick is a '83-'87 your engine harness is not the only wiring that is likely to have rotten insulation. I think your going to have pull the driver door panel. Yank out the door lock sys fuse or disconnect the battery neg terminal before reaching inside the door panel. You can get zapped pretty good messing with the lock actuator/switch harness. Using lots of electrical tape or splicing in a '88 or later switch from a junker has worked for me in the past.

Good Luck

I've read that the wiring in the door gets rubbed to where the wire is shorting on the metal door frame. I'd start with the drivers door and look for a wire showing through. Get some electrical tape and mend it.