Volvo RWD 200 Forum

Just picked up a 88 244 DL (automatic) for my wife. After replacing inner and outer tie rods, and patching up some holes in the floor boards I've noticed a fresh problem.

The OD indicator on the dash (arrow) was always on. I got it to shut off one time but messing with the button on the shifter. Read a bunch of posts on what the problem might be and I started troubleshooting by pulling the relay (behind the dash). The relay smells burnt, and has some black scorching on the circuit board.

I also looked at the wire running to the solenoid, which looks good. Dirty but all there and connected, no chafing either.

Once I pulled the relay the light didn't come back on. I've read that this still means the car is in OD off mode. So doing some other investigation I read about jumping wires 87 to 15 on the relay. Made a jumper, plugged her in and everything seems normal. Arrow is still off and the engine appears to be running at a lower RPM at highway speed.

So my question is...is there any way to tell, one way or another, if my OD is engaged? I can't seem to tell my counting the gears, and there is no tachometer to go by. Is this a fool proof method?

Any ideas? Also have other brickboarders used the jumpers with success and just left them in permanently? I don't see myself using the OD off mode at least for the meantime. And I would rather just keep the relay out of the equation.

Thanks in advance,

Will

Your best bet is to purchase the OD plate from IPD and remove the solenoid and eliminate the useless feature now. Unless you live in the mountains or do alot of towing? I am assuming its an automagic? 88 manuals are 5-speeds with no OD.

The overdrive provides approximately a 20% rpm drop. It should engage at 35-40 mph if on level road and light throttle.

If you are up to 50 mph and aren't sure, let up on the gas while watching the tachometer. If at 2500 rpm when O/D engages, the RPMs should drop by 20% or down to 2000 rpm.

If you do not have a tachometer, getting one is a worthwhile upgrade, as is a voltmeter. The tach kit" (look on eBay) consists of a large tach which replaces the large clock in the cluster, a small clock, a bezel and 3 little rubber "feet" that hold the clock into a 2 x 2 square spot left of the center A/C vents, and a 3-wire harness that connects the tach to the clock.

The harness provides the clock with a constant hot lead, ground lead, and lighting lead. In the wires behind the cluster you should find the factory-installed lead from the coil for the tach. I think it is red/white and has an insulated female connector on it. Installing it to anything other than the tach WILL damage whatever it's hooked to.

When the O/D relay gets old and cranky, like mine, and the up arrow stays lit after starting the engine, use the heel of your right hand and deliver a moderate whack to the right corner on the coin tray. The relay is mounted right behind there. Works for me.

If you go in with a "new" relay, keep in mind that the one for an automatic tranny is NOT the same as for a manual tranny.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Maybe my question was a bit foggy.

If the arrow isn't lit up now with the OD relay jumper installed then am I all set?

If the solenoid was bad, and the jumper was in, would the arrow be lit up?

Eventually I will just bypass the feature, but at this time I'm thinking that if only the relay is bad then why waste time and money for the kit.

Thanks,

Will

Sorry, I forgot about the jumper. I've not used one, and I don't know what you jumpered.


The wiring for the solenoid is separate from the wiring for the light. So you can have the light behaving normally and still have the O/D not engage.

Assuming that you have an automatic tranny:

At first start-up, the relay engages and the up-arrow should not light up. In this default condition, the tranny should engage the O/D automatically when throttle position and road speed are appropriate. Level road, 35 to 40 mph.

Pushing the button on the side of the shifter knob opens the relay. This brings on the up-arrow and de-powers the O/D solenoid causing the O/D to disengage. Thus the up-arrow shows that the O/D is inhibited from engaging.

I have "tested" the O/D solenoid by listening. With the engine not running but the key in II position, one can listen under the car (about under the driver's seat) while pushing the inhibitor button. The solenoid should click with each push.

If it doesn't click, first be sure the wire that brings it power is OK. Check for a bad connector, wire melted from lying on the hot tranny case, wire cut where it passes up through the shifter well into the cabin, and properly connected on a connector under the carpet near the right side corner of the central control panel cover. The wire is white, connects to pin #87 on the relay.

Sounds like a lot of work, but may save the cost of a new relay. If it is the relay, you might try re-soldering the circuit board before buying one. It is not an inexpensive relay.

Hope this gets you on the road OK.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

OD is your fourth gear on an automatic. You should feel it kick in under normal driving at about 40 mph. With no OD you'll never break 80 mph .... well you wanted to know!