Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum
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SAVE Buying tips for 1969 164 140-160 1969
posted by B20Paul. on Wed Jun 24 10:14 CST 2009
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last visit: Sat Nov 21 03:35 CST 2009[RELATED]Early 164's have extra places to rust, mostly where the extra stainless trim sits on the doors that 140's don't have.
B30's have less cam problems than B20's because the cam is a fair bit larger in diameter + they are all mild C grinds (The D cam which B20Es have is a great deal harsher than the slow old C grind.)
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posted by Rhys on Wed Jun 24 00:59 CST 2009
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last visit: Sun Nov 1 01:44 CST 2009[RELATED]The B30 will flatten cam lobes just like the B20's but they are more difficult for the untrained to detect as the big six is a smooth runner. It should have LOTS of power, and if it doesn't, dig a bit deeper.
The front end bushings are a bit different from the 140's and 15 years ago the upper control arm bushings were not available new. I don't know about now, but my 73 164E needed them. Had to pluck a control arm from the wreckers to get a good one.
Great cars, but they gobble gas.
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posted by benski on Wed Jun 24 19:00 CST 2009
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last visit: Sat Nov 21 02:39 CST 2009[RELATED]Thanks to everyone for their responses. Has anyone put a Megasquirt system on one of these cars with good results? I , too, have heard that they are not exactly the most fuel efficient thing out there. That's not a particularly big worry to me, as I'd probably only drive the thing 3,000 mi.per year or so.
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posted by B20Paul. on Wed Jun 24 19:26 CST 2009
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last visit: Sat Nov 21 03:35 CST 2009[RELATED]I had a '74 B30E manual with 3.54 diff, K-Cam, drastic exhaust port surgery, 6-3-1 headers & altered D-Jet. It would squeak 300 miles out of a tank, but was normally closer to 240 miles/tank.
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posted by PSB on Wed Jun 24 05:55 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 11:39 CST 2009[RELATED]>>The front end bushings are a bit different from the 140's and 15 years ago the >>upper control arm bushings were not available new. I don't know about now, but >>my 73 164E needed them. Had to pluck a control arm from the wreckers to get a >>good one.
The upper bushings are still available, but are about $45 each from CVI in Sweden. They are supposedly very difficult to replace requiring special tools. The entire control arm assembly with bushings already installed is also available new for about $200 each.
I once saw a discussion on the board about the possibility of using a 140 upper A-arm with ploy bushings as a simpler, low cost alternative. However, there were no follow-ups to confirm if anyone had ever tried this.
PSB
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posted by B20Paul. on Wed Jun 24 10:20 CST 2009
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last visit: Sat Nov 21 03:35 CST 2009[RELATED]I once saw a discussion on the board about the possibility of using a 140 upper A-arm with ploy bushings as a simpler, low cost alternative. However, there were no follow-ups to confirm if anyone had ever tried this.
It's been done. I'm not a huge fan of poly bushes in 140s, but the upper front arms would be THE place to use poly.
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posted by alschnertz on Mon Jun 22 15:30 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 21:15 CST 2009[RELATED]Just about every mechanical issue can be addressed. All depends on how much you are willing to spend.
Generally, they're pretty cheap to keep on the road - once they're on the road that is. I'm basing that comment on my experience with 140 daily drivers though which are virtually the same.
Rust prone areas?
Upper rear shock mount;
Jacking points;
Hood hinge at the base where it goes through the inner fender;
Inner fender under the battery and the opposite side too;
Rocker panels;
Base of the windshield at the corners;
Joint between the front fenders and the nose section;
Rear wheel arch at the rocker panel.
--
Lubricate your distributer!
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posted by
matt b
on
Mon Jun 22 14:28 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 21:31 CST 2009[RELATED]Rust, of course. Look very carefully...
The other issue that is common with the old Volvos is previous owner "modifications" that were done sloppily.
Past that, general condition is about like any car.. how it runs and drives. Plan to dump some money into maintenance.. front end, etc... that's routine stuff though, and not a deal killer.
Do expect a noisy transmission.. most are.
Sounds like a potentially good score...
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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posted by bmessina on Mon Jun 22 15:20 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 17:53 CST 2009[RELATED]I'll 2nd the noisy transmission, now that I'm runnin' an M410. Wow. I'm pulling up the carpet next week, I'll definitely be layering the sound deadening material over the trans hump. It's crazy.
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posted by 164guy on Fri Jul 3 00:02 CST 2009
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last visit: Wed Oct 21 01:38 CST 2009[RELATED]I "lucked out" with my '69 164. Absolutely NO RUST! However... eight years later, I'm only now about to start really driving her. It's been a total motor rebuild, brakes, booster, K-cam, distrib upgrade, factory fog lights, paint job and complete interior redone (interior should be finished in a week or so), replaced everything made of rubber, and a hundred other little things. The headliner was perfect when I bought her in 2001, with 25,000 miles. She was sitting undriven in a garage for 25 years!
The one disappointment was that she runs better with the stock Strombies than the HIF6's I had on her. Go figure. Thanks to all you Volvo crazies that helped me over the last eight years. I'll post pics when I get her back from the interior guy. I put a Blaupunkt AM/FM/SW radio with an ipod attachment in her and I've spent my waiting time filling up that ipod with vintage tunes from the period. Soon I'll be a kid again. Isn't that what it's all about? ESCAPE...Volvo style! "Hold on, I'm coming!"
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