Volvo RWD 200 Forum
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by BlueGoose on Wed Jun 3 20:01 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 19:10 CST 2009[RELATED]As far as what the wires go to... The left side has the defroster and the license plate light. The right side has the wiper, door lock, and third brake light. At least that's how mine is.
--
1986 Volvo 245
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Photoman327 on Thu Jun 4 05:23 CST 2009
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last visit: Tue Nov 17 06:24 CST 2009[RELATED]Thanks, That helps me a lot and may explain the reason my wiper still does not work. I started on the right & wired each of the black wires on each side of the harness to the hinge. On the left The wires was not cut completely and saw the error of my wiring. Since all the lights worked right I did not go back to redo it. I got side tracked with my home freezer/Refrigerator. To new and too expensive to replace I fixed it for a $34.00 glass defroster. First time every doing anything to refrigerator. Only saved about $250.00 by doing this myself. Going to get back on the 245 today and finish the front end. Greg
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by flood on Tue Jun 2 09:31 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:31 CST 2009[RELATED]If this is the first failure, there is enough slack in the wire to splice and then pull fresh, previously unexposed wire, to run through the hinge opening. This is less work and less $$$. (don't have to remove the panel or fish the wire)
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by
JohnMc
on
Tue Jun 2 09:10 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 13:27 CST 2009[RELATED]I bought new wiring harnesses from FCP (~$14 each):
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/688/nm/1986_1993_Volvo_240_Tailgate_Wiring_Harness_Left/category_id/42
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/687/nm/1985_1993_Volvo_240_Tailgate_Wiring_Harness_Right/category_id/42
And just spent a couple of hours tediously installing them. hardest part for me was fishing the new wires down through the narrow channels on either side of the rear window in the hatch. But now everything on the hatch works. The defroster, the wiper, the lock, the lights.
Annnnnnnnd I'll just have to do it again in another 10 years....
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by rstarkie on Tue Jun 2 07:07 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 22:44 CST 2009[RELATED]I use Dave's method.
I will add the write up I did some time ago on the process:
I have repaired the wiring in the tailgates of the 240's three times. Each time I reused the harness on each side by simply splicing in about 12 inches of wire.
Start by removing the interior panel on the tail gate and locating the lower end of the one of the harnesses. Unplug each wire and cut each wire off about 2 inches from the end. Strip the wire, slip on a piece of heat shrink tubing and solder the 2 inch piece to the 12 inch splice then shrink the tubing. Do this for all the wires on that side. Then slip on another piece of heat shrink tubing and solder each new assembly to the CORRECT original wire in the harness and shrink that tubing. You now have a harness on one side that is 12 inches too long.
I do one side at a time without removing the tailgate. Some people like to remove the tailgate and lay it on a surface that won't scratch the finish. I don't want to wrestle with 75 pounds of tailgate. I rest the tailgate on a 4 foot stepladder after removing the gas struts. You can take one hinge loose at a time this way and complete one side before doing the other.
The headliner is removed at the corners to reveal the nuts that hold the hinges to the roof. Simply grasp the headliner at the corner, pull back and down and it begins to come loose. Notice how the rigid plastic sewn to the edge fits up into and behind the metel lip (very slick setup, easy to remove and replace). Loosen and remove the two fasteners on each half of the hinge (two on the roof side and two on the tailgate). Check your balance point on the ladder carefully as you remove the final fastners on the hinge to make sure the tailgate doesn't move too much and stress the ONE attachment point you still have.
Unplug the upper end of the harness and pull the wires up through the roof panel. There is one connector that is a tight fit. After you have all the wires pulled through and on the top of the roof you can pull the harness up and take up that extra 12 inches in length. Cut the connectors off of each wire (again leaving about 2 inches of wire on each one)and do the solder/heat
shrink routine just below the area where the wires were broken. Push the connectors back down through the roof and reattach them. Replace the hinge (try to leave a little extra slack in the harness in the hinge so as not to stress it any more than necessary when opening and closing the tailgate). I siliconed the area under the hinge to prevent leaks.
One side is completed at this point and the other side just involves doing it again. The first time I did it the total repair time was 3 hours. The second time only took 2 hours. The third time I didn’t watch the clock.
Good luck.
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by benski on Tue Jun 2 10:55 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 11:15 CST 2009[RELATED]Well written, everyone. I, too, am a fan of the one hinge at a time, solder or crimp and ladder style of repair, especially if I'm working alone. Getting the tailgate to line up and put the bolts in if you're working alone without doing bodily harm is a real wrestling match.
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Photoman327 on Tue Jun 2 07:48 CST 2009
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last visit: Tue Nov 17 06:24 CST 2009[RELATED]Thanks for this great help. I'm with you also on doing one side at a time. I'm working by my self and the alignment issue with taking the gate off. Going to get this done this week. I don't have enough GXL Or TXL wire but I'm hoping for a 1 time fix. Greg
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Volvo From Heck on Tue Jun 2 06:59 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 22:32 CST 2009[RELATED]There's a junction block on each side up over the headliner. The headliner corners can be pulled down for access--stretch the corners to release the headliner from the ridge that the rounds the corners. From there the wires go through the roof into the channel built into each hinge and then down the window frame into the main body of the hatch. The hinges need to be removed to replace/and/or repair the harness. New harnesses are available--or for less money/more work you can snip out the bad section through the hinge(s) and make splices so what goes through the hinge is fresher wire/sheathing. -- Dave
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Photoman327 on Tue Jun 2 07:53 CST 2009
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last visit: Tue Nov 17 06:24 CST 2009[RELATED]Hi Dave,
I'm going for the cheap more work method and to run a new harness to me is just as much work getting the old one out. Thanks
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Volvo From Heck on Tue Jun 2 10:37 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 22:32 CST 2009[RELATED]I've never actually bought a harness, but have found new ones in cars I bought-still in the package-never installed. I'd add one thing to rstarkie's excellent post--as far as the plastic connectors go--if you use a pick tool you can flatten the raised "lock" on the actual terminal and slip them out of the plastic piece---just make a diagram of where they go. The "lock" flap can be bent back afterwards. -- Dave
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Photoman327 on Tue Jun 2 12:51 CST 2009
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last visit: Tue Nov 17 06:24 CST 2009[RELATED]well, I went out to start on the front end & took a look a how the headliner come down and I look really simple. Boy was I wrong, It took me every bit of three hours. Two good things came out of this. My 245 came with a Black full rack that I took off and installed plugs. Some of the later 240 have just a 2 rail rack and I like the look. 1 car is fixed 2. I'm going to the yard and pull the rail rack in the morning. Thanks
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Volvo From Heck on Thu Jun 4 13:46 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Nov 20 22:32 CST 2009[RELATED]So now I'm curious. What plugs did you use for the rack mount points? the IPD system? your own? How well did they work/look. I personnally do not like the 245 with a rack and the '84 245GLT/turbo I'm now driving is going to be a keeper--so the original rack has to go. A 245 I bought last year for fix/resale had a Thule rack on the roof. The rack is in good shape but when I removed it found the drip rails rusty because they'd left the rack in place continuously. So now I have that removable rack and the '84's is a goner. -- Dave
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by Photoman327 on Thu Jun 4 17:48 CST 2009
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last visit: Tue Nov 17 06:24 CST 2009[RELATED]Dave, I used the plugs from IPD. They work great and are small. I push one through and the front two are something else. They are a little larger. At the time I did not know how to remove the headliner to get it. The IPD plugs are the way to go. Really like the clean look but I need a rack at times. You may want to look into the late model rack. I need to remove it and measure the mounting points to be sure. I owned this 245 before and the car and how good it is. This car has no rust at all and Engine & Transmission are in great shape. I Purchased IPD sway bar for this car before I got it back. I hate the rack that came on this and when I notice the two rail rack that is lower and more stream line, it looks like the ticket for me. I hate the add on rack even more. It rained today so I did not go to the bone yard. I'm not sure if I will sell this one or my 244 or both. I keep thinking about getting rid of both to finance a 66 Impala and a 55 Chevy project. My 87 244 GL is real sharp and it has IPD everything. The 245 is sharp also just a wagon which makes it much more functional. I just changed the out the 87 GL Wheels and Michelin tire that might have 4,000 miles off the 91 245 for some 940 15" wheels & BFG tires. The tires look new also. I have some that wants my 94 Impala SS Wagon and if he comes up with cash its gone. Don't think he can afford it which means the 91 245 will have to go. I have to down size got too many projects and not enough money. greg
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SAVE Hinged Wires 200
posted by jfh0jfh on Tue Jun 2 06:57 CST 2009
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last visit: Sun Nov 15 16:25 CST 2009[RELATED]Some good threads in the archives on this. I just splice and reroute
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars
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