Volvo RWD 700 Forum

740GLE Engine B230F 1990 Starting problem
During past months I got starting problems from time to time (impossible to re-start after running or engine stopped without reason). Recently it really would no more start.
1/Maintenance manual of this car indicate engine B230F with LH Jetronic 2.2.
Litterature I found say LH jetronic 2.2 for B230FT (turbo) and 2.4 for B230F.Do you know if B230F has been equipped with Jetronic 2.2 and where it is possible to get diagram and diagnostic procedure?
2/Fuel injection relay (item 135)was sometimes not working properly. Change for a new one.Now when I switch on I could hear the 2 pumps running for 1-2 seconds (hearing tank pump by using a flexible hose introduce in the tank).
3/If I disconnect the fuel pressure regulator from the distribution pipe the fuel is flowing when I switch on. The fuel fiter is new (3000 miles)
4/If I spray start pilot at the engine inlet the engine start without problem and run as long as I spray. So I conclude Ignition side and ignition module are OK
5/Using diagnostic unit (cable into socket 6)
Press 1 time= 1.1.1 Injection system OK. 2 times 3.3.4 TPS OK 1.4.1 RPM sensor OK
6/Radio suppression relay OK
7/I read that 740/760 are equipped with LUXOR injection amplifier (traction control). Where is fitted this amplifier? Some doc about it?
Conclusion: I am a poor Frenchy not readdy to pay a fortune to VOLVO.If you understand my bad english and if you some idea many thanks for your answer.

Hey there zpilou. I think we have the exact same problem. there is a coolant temp sensor that tells the computer what to make the mixture for the fuel to be- when this sensor is bad or out of range of the computer it will cause the fuel pump to not activate. the easiest way to find out if its bad is to disconnect it. its located under the intake manifold, between cylinders 3 and 4 its a 2 wire plug~ usually 1black and 1white wire... Now I have replaced this before and it works for a few months but then goes bad again... which has me leaning towards a wiring issue... but when u disconnect it go and try to start it and put the pedal to the floor and it should start but it will be really rich... and may black smoke at first and run really bad but it will smooth out and is drivable. mine went out on a road trip. thank god i knew what to do otherwise I would still be on the side of the road LOL! let me know if this helps at all.

I'd like to add a few comments here:

1) In the North American and Scandinavian markets at least, a 1990 740 with GLE trim level came with the B234F 16-valve, LH 2.4 fuel injection (ECU) and EZ-116K ignition controller. In some markets the B234F used the Regina ECU and "Rex i" ignition. You say you have a B230F. In that year it would also either have LH 2.4/EZ-116K or Regina/"Rex i" (or Rex-Regina as it's often known). The fact you have an OBD(I) diagnostic socket means it's definitely not LH 2.2.

2) At the OBD socket, the 1-1-1 code in socket 6 means the ignition side is more or less happy -at least the sensor signals are okay. You didn't mention checking for codes at socket 2 for the fuel system ECU.

3) You tested the injectors by directly applying 12 volts. It's better to use the OBD system do that. There's a description of how to run diagnostics using the OBD system here in the 700-900 FAQ OBD Diagnostic Procedures section.

4) Has anyone mentioned a failed/failing crank position (RPM) sensor as a possibility? The original symptoms sure fit -no hot restart leading up to intermittent no starts then no start at all. Check the Crank Position Sensor section of the 700-900 FAQ for more details.

Of course people should be jumping on me for even suggesting that because a) the crank position sensor is connected to the ignition system and b) the OBD socket gave you a 1-1-1 code and not a 2-1-4 code for a bad crank position sensor. The fact that the engine ran when you manually dumped in starting fluid apparently may or may not mean the ignition control side is functional -you need to check for a strong spark at the plugs as mentioned. In any event, in my limited experience, a weak crank position sensor does not always seem to raise the 2-1-4 code. I just went for a replacement sensor based on dry plugs and the no start symptoms and all was well.

I do have a theory how the ignition side can be functioning okay with a weak crank position sensor when the fuel injection side is not. The ignition controller has to pass the crank position sensor signal on to the ECU before the injectors will get pulsed. A weak crank position sensor signal (seemingly the most common form of failure) may be adequate to keep the ignition controller happy, but the signal passed on to the ECU may not be enough to keep it happy. If the ECU is unhappy with the crank position sensor signal, you're supposed to get a 1-3-1 code. As mentioned, I've had bad crank position sensors causing no starts that didn't raise any codes. BTW the 2-1-4 and the 1-3-1 diagnostic codes do not set the Check Engine light (go figure, but then again I suppose checking the engine is a rather obvious thing to do when it won't start).

There is a partial test for the crank position sensor. This is not a definitive test -if the test fails you do have a bad sensor, but if it passes you may still be getting a poor signal, such as when the braided shield is damaged when it rubs against the cooling system return pipe. Disconnect the crank position sensor at the firewall. Then using a DVM, measure resistance between the red and blue wires. You should get 170+/-30 ohms at 20 degC (room temperature). There were also early sensors (with a yellow band on the cable as opposed to the later ones with a white band) found in the 1988 to early-1990 production years (possibly yours). These were known to be weak. The test for the early ones is 240+/-25 ohms. You actually have to check the part numbers on those with the yellow band as there was a small production run of revised yellow banded ones that weren't weak. You should also check that there is continuity (virtually zero ohms) between the sensor black wire and chassis ground (there almost always will be unless the cable is severely damaged).

Because your initial symptoms so closely match that of a failing crank position sensor, I would even go so far as to suggest replacing the sensor on spec before getting too carried away replacing any of the more expensive parts. In particular, for the power stage, which is another prime suspect, it would be nice to have a known good one to swap in for testing before replacing it since new ones are rather pricey.
--
Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

If you have a 1990 GLE then it should be a B234F engine. The B234F engine is easily distinguishable from the B230F since it says 16V DOHC on the valve cover. The B234F uses LH2.4 Jetronic fuel injection with EZ116K electronic ignition.

Bill

Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts.

Hello zpilou,

Welcome to the Brickboard.

The FAQ can give you much information about all versions of LH-Jet. Use the drop down menu found in the upper left corner of every page to get there. For schematics on the web, try these sources:

http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volvo/740/1989/740-89.htm
http://www.volviki.org/tiki-file_galleries.php

I am not familiar with the Luxor amplifier. I Googled the phrase "luxor volvo amplifier". I got this page back: http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/vvp1d1.html. Further searching on the WWW might return more information for you.

After reading that page, I think that Luxor controller amp is the most likely failure.

BTW, your English is infinitely better than my French.
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 53 year old fat man. ;-)

The fact that you can keep it running with starter fluid says that the problem IS ignition. That spray probably contains ether and does not need a spark to ignite (gas does). Have you checked for spark at the plugs?
Possible cause is the ignition amp mounted on drivers side fender. This modules supplies pulses for spark to the coil. There is info on this in the FAQ section. Not sure what your referenece is traction control about. Your English is fine.
--
David Hunter

Hi,


I don't know where David obtained his data on pilot spray, but it is incorrect.

Have an assistant turn the key while you listen for clicks from the fuel injectors.


Goatman

Thanks

For injector test I just apply 12V on injector connection and then I could hear the click

Hello zpilou,

On a 29 year old vehicle, Volvo or otherwise, it is advisable to replace the sensors and ignition components, like the ignition amplifier, if you suspect them to be faulty or are having a complete failure like you are experiencing. I also make it a habit to pull the wiring harness connector bodies apart on post 1989 vehicles and clean the contact surfaces. If you are certain that you are getting fuel through (not just to) the injectors and the engine will not fire, I would change the ignition amplifier. Check by unbolting the fuel rail and pulling the rail upward to remove the injectors from the manifold. Put 4 jars under the injectors and crank the engine (disconnect the coil wire). If you are not getting a good spray on all of the injectors, that circuit is most likely open.

David is right about the starting fluid though, as a weak spark will fire the fluid but will not fire the gas mixture.

Regards,
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles, 88 780 246K miles, 93 Buick LaSabre 119,000 miles

Thanks for your help.

According your advice I unbolt the fuel rail and put the rail up to remove the injectors from the manifold. No spray at all when cranking the engine.

I disconnect again the pressure regulator and I got fuel flowing when I switch on.

I check again with the diagnostic unit and I got lighting 1.1.1 what means the injection system is OK.

So I conclude I have a problem with the pressure regulator or the fuel pump or the fuel filter.

Do you agree?

Pierre

Hi Pierre,

I would think that no fuel through the injector but flow at the pressure regulator could be either a main fuel pump failure or pressure regulator failure. I am assuming that you have checked the fuel rail pressure and bleed down rate. If you have not, this needs to be done. Low pressure could be either the regulator or fuel pump (you did say that it was running?), but a fast leak down of pressure would point to the main pump.

You should raise the car and have a helper turn the key on while you hold your hand on the main pump. If that is running, disconnect the fuel line from behind the manifold and run it into a container while the engine is cranked. If you have a strong flow at that point, I would suspect that the injectors are not cycling which would indicate a failure of the ECU or the Radio Supression Relay (if so equipped). The RSR can be jumpered out to further eliminate the problem.

Regards,


--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles, 88 780 246K miles, 93 Buick LaSabre 119,000 miles