Volvo RWD 200 Forum

Perhaps I am slow but I could use some help.

My current battery lasted 8 years (Kragen exide $30) and has now failed.

I thought it would be a simple matter to replace. It hasn't been.

The usual suspects Kragen, Sears, Costco, autozone do not carry a replacement battery in their computer system. Couple of online sites list replacement at $120-140 dollars + shipping (one was $349!!!). Searched Brickboard, my Haynes manual and Owners manual for battery spec. No Joy. I feel I have done my homework.

One Interstate battery source said use Group 46 another Group 47. Would have to special order. Current battery does not have Group # anywhere on the case.

Costco had a battery with same dimensions but hold down lip was at base on sides rather than at base on ends.

I would like to spend $40-80 for the battery.

Anyone have an inexpensive source for replacement battery that is close to correct size and has hold down edges on ends of battery?

Anyone have suggestions on replacement tray/hold down combo that would hold newer batteries? Should I use heavy rubber bungee as one poster did?

I do know that I need to be aware of where the + and - posts are so that existing cables will reach. + post needs to be rearward and outboard when battery is in position.

Thanks for any advice
Howard

I agree with SvensMaintainer. Get the largest/best battery that fits the tray. I found the Costco 34/78DT fit my '80's tray. Using a zip tie to secure battery.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

I just replaced the Interstate battery in a 1988 with a Wal-Mart Ever-Start. It fell right in and the hold-down fit.
I happen to know that there are only a few battery mfrs. left, and I noticed that the housing to the 2 batteries was EXACTLY the same.
I have read that Wal-Mart batteries are made by Johnson Controls.

Here in Florida, the heat is tough on batteries. Sometimes 3 years is all you get out of a battery.

They're hard to find. The Volvo dealer couldn't help. I finally found an Autolite 24-96P, 675 CCA, from Kragen. Fits perfectly. Positive terminal next to the fender as original. It was one of the few that had flanges along the bottom to accept the hold-down clamp. It's either that or convert to the "J" bolt hold-down. It definately cost more than $40-$80.
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1986 Volvo 245

I've always got alot of years out of the Volvo branded batteries and they don't cost anymore than most others. I wonder if you could upgrade to the newer style tray.

Been there - done that.

Later years had the + terminal inboard and the ground by the fender. That probably accounts for the Group 46/47 mixup. It's kind of easy to short out the + when it's by the fender; I think that's why they moved it.

We've had 5 240s and several of them no longer had working hold downs. I bought the J-hook type hold-down at parts stores. They always worked. A stiff sheet metal bracket goes across the top of the battery connecting the two vertical J-hooks. It comes with the J-hooks, as I recall.

Depending on your battery tray you might have to drill a hole to accept the bottom end of the J-hook but you'll figure that out. J's come in stock lengths - I've always found that the available length to fully reach the top of the battery was too long (tall) to let the hood close. The J-hook on the forward side of the battery will need to be cut down a bit - hacksaw or whatever method you prefer.

It's possible to replace the battery tray with a new plastic one if yours is rusted away. PB Blaster will help free up rusty screws that may be at the bottom of your old tray. They sell 2 or 3 sizes of plastic replacement trays, just get the largest that will fit in your engine bay. Buy new screws to replace the old rusty ones. Standard metric size, you can match them in a hardware store. The replacement trays are usually marked with the battery sizes they will hold but you have to pay attention to height clearance after you install it.

I left battery size for last because - - -
Lately I've mostly ignored the "correct" size. On an old beast like an '85, get the biggest battery you can fit into your tray and available space. Just make measurements with a tape. A bigger battery will have more lead + acid in it and will do a better job, all other things being equal. In my humble opinion of course.

Good luck with it!


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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.

Just about any battery with terminals on the top will work. It does not matter what side the +/- posts are on, since the cables will reach either way. The only problem is clamping it to the tray as you mentioned. I would probably try stringing large cable ties together and wrap it around the tray and battery. I say try because I have never gotten around to doing it. My battery has been loose for years and it has not caused any problems.

I bought a NAPA battery that fits perfectly in my 84. It's a 7524, and it was $70-80, I think, a couple of years ago.

Steve