Volvo RWD 200 Forum

This is what somebody said to me. Does this guy know what he is talking about?

An anecdote on value:

I've had my 240 for over a year, now. It has impressed me to tears, time and time again. But, due to the neglect of the previous owner, getting it up the quality ride that I want is going to be more expensive than just buying another RWD Volvo that was better cared for to begin with. I wanted to do all the fixing up it needed, and still be driving it in ten years, but that just is not in my cards. However, such a Volvo popped up, and I will probably have it very soon.

I mentioned to my parents (separately, mind you) that my plan was to get this one, and once any quirks were taken care of, to sell my 240 here on Brickboard, so that it could get the TLC it deserves. Each, separately, thought it would be a better idea for them to sell their current spare car, and take over my 240, instead of me selling it. There's some value you can't compare to resale prices or repair costs. Sorry, potential buyers. :p


It's safe (probably safest of any car up until the 90s), performs better than most would except an old 4-banger to, handles better than anyone expects a dumpy looking European people-mover to, is quite durable, and can have major work performed on it in any driveway. If you have to pay a mechanic to replace your thermostat, it's going to be way too expensive (it had to fail during the first 100+F week last year, too!). If you have to pay a mechanic to replace something like the rear main seal, then it's not cheap, but not bad. If you can do a tranny swap all by yourself, then I guess they're really cheap to maintain.

Well, I just finished reading the 39 responses to this subject, and thought I'd throw my 2 cents worth in. I don't think that a (in my case) 24 year old imported car is the right choice for every one out there. But it is for me, and for the follwing reasons:
I can keep it running 28,000 mi./yr pretty much by myself.
It wont't be worth any less money with 300k on the odometer than 250k.
When it breaks catastrophically, I'll give it a hug, pull the jewelry off of it, and go find another to enjoy and upgrade. I like the way they drive when everything is in good shape, they don't drink a ton of fuel doing it, and they are pretty low profile to most of the law enforcement folks out there. Those last three resons are good enough for me!
If you had to hire a mechanic to keep your 240 in good shape for you, it may not make sense, but I like doing 95% of the work myself.

What exact misunderstanding does that statement imply? No car is an investment unless it's some sort of seriously collectible item, which the 200 series are not (as yet).

Rule of thumb, lifted from "Klick and Klack": Can you get a better car for less than the cost of the repair you're facing right now? Unless the car is missing the engine or is seriously rusted to the point that "better" means it does not look like crap, likely not.

One problem with the definition is the evaluation of "better." This obviously varies from person to person. Most features of new cars, like faster acceleration, cup holders, or more electronic accessories are just trivial updates. But improved safety features like anti-lock brakes and electronic stability control certainly could be considered "better." There is a lot to consider in this debate.

we ate it for dinner, Therefore dinner cost $6,000 pound? I should quit sailing and eat out?
same logic
What a thread you started!
Charles

If you want to make a buck on a car these are not for you... If you want to save money and drive the hell out of a car then, all in....

Tinker, it's how I roll...

I've been driving 240s since October, 1976, when I drove home my new, manual transmission Sahara Beige 240 (20 years later finally given a name, The Blond Bombshell). It drove like a Sherman Tank from day one until the day 23 years later I reluctantly parted with it due to rust in October, 1999. I liked it more 23 years later than I did on the day I drove it home the first time. I still miss the sound (growl) of that B21 engine. Man, that engine was built to do work.

When I learned that 1993 was going to be the last year of production, I ran right out to the dealer like an excited school girl and ordered a 1993 with manual transmission, and also went with the limited slip differential option, thank you very much. At the time, manual transmissions were not too popular so mine had to be ordered from the factory, and was produced in the last full month of 240 production (April, 1993). It presently has about 67,000 cream puff miles on it, the vast majority of which are highway miles.

In October, 1999, I purchased a used 1990 240 with 216,000 mikes on it for $1800. Of course it needed a fair amount of little things to be fixed, just the normal wear and tear/maintenance variety. This is my daily driver coming up on 10 years this October, I have never garaged it, it has 246,000 miles on it now, and is used almost exclusively for really frequent, really short trips. So, that's 30,000 miles of this type of use. The car has been well maintained. I love driving this mule. The engine just seems to thrive on doing work. These late model b230 engines are pure driving pleasure.

In 2004 I purchased a used 240 1993 wagon with 96,000 miles on it; it currently has 134,000 miles on it. Of course, the capacity of the wagons, when the back is "flat-bedded", is immense. The car is a dream.

I'd like to own five more 240s, just don't have the space. I consider 240s dream machines. To me, a 240 offers, essentially, perfection of design balance. In my case, the market value of 240s keeping up with the cost of repairs doesn't really matter, I guess because of the way I think about them. Driving basically the same car design that I love for 33 years and counting is reward enough.

Great to hear all of this. I'm on my 4th 240 - all manuals, ('81 wagon, '89 sedan, '86 wagon, now '92 wagon) the latest of which is a 225,000 mile creampuff with the nice spoked alloy wheels, leather interior, and limited slip rear. I agree the 240 is the solidest workhorse around! My mechanic says "the 240 is just a massive car..." Says it all.

The fact that prices are low for these cars does NOT mean their values are low - it means you can get more car per $$!

Dp,
Falmouth

A common logical mistake is to assume that when a car's resale value is less than the cost of repairs it is time to scrap the car. Hogwash. I'm not saying that every car is worth putting huge amounts of repair money into, but often a person is in fact much better off keeping what they have maintained and running than they are replacing the car.

A more reasonable point might be to say that when the total annual all inclusive costs of running your existing vehicle exceed the total annual costs of a newer replacement vehicle, then it makes sense to replace. There are many ways to do that math, but it is always more complicated than the simple minded cost of repairs vs. vehicle market value thing so many people do.

I think that he is probably correct. I used to sell cars at a (non-Volvo) dealership so I am familiar somewhat to car values. Any car older than 5 years old is virtually worth nothing unless they're some kind of sportscar or collector car. Unfortunately, the Volvo 240 doesn't fall into that category. If I couldn't do the work myself on my car, I wouldn't own one. The only guy in this area where I live that you can trust to work on your Volvos charges an arm and a leg for his work or parts. Case in point- I asked him once if he had a large tach/small clock setup to upgrade my first 245 and he said that he'd sell me the set for $200 (not installed). I went on ebay and got the same set for $30 delivered to my front door. When you go any of the salvage yards here and ask for volvo parts, they give you this guys' name. Welcome to Western Colorado! I hope it's better where you live. It makes me salivate sometimes when I read posts here where some of you all on the east coast can go to a pick-n-pull and get a whole turbo setup to +turbo your car for $500. Those are like the Holy Grail here. Good Luck!

With these economic times, you're well advised to keep your money in the bank and your 240 on the road. This won't help GM, Chrysler, or for that matter Volvo, out of their problems...but, too bad.

Many people ignore the "opportunity cost of capital"...ie: what the money could be used for if you didn't spend it on the purchase at hand. If you had the $25k cash for, say, a new Camry, that would earn you about 1.6% after tax in a CD or GIC. So, $400/yr, plus the savings on the insurance coverage you'd want for that new car. The Camry might save you about $200 on fuel costs in a 10,000-mile year compared to the 240.

Roughly, you'll net maybe $500 to spend on annual 240 repairs on a break-even cash flow basis. And you've still got your $25k available if a can't-miss opportunity like a house upgrade comes along. That adds "value" to your older car.

Maybe we're a little over zealous about the 'mystique' of these cars, but there's satisfaction as well as tangible economics in keeping a solid old beast running at low cost (and beating the system).
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles)

I'm sure thats true if you have to pay dealers rates for repairs and service. I am just as sure that is a false statement if you are a DIY BB'er.

When you figure what the 200 cost new, and now mine is nearing the 25th year of dependable service, with no major repairs required, other than the changeover to the R-134A system, it computes to somewhere less than $1000.00 per year of ownership, and when you also consider that the car is still dependable for daily transportation, even for long road trips, then the value of the car has to have reached an appreciation level. While most 25 year old cars are long in the scrapyard, the old trusty 245 just keeps clicking off the miles. I've already figured that in order to replace it with a brand new vehicle with the same features that mine has would cost me in the vicinity of 50 Large, so I'm way ahead of the curve.

Not in my case. I have not done any major repairs since I bought my '89 new in Late'88.
I can probably count on one hand the repairs I had to do other than basic maintenance. The last one was a broken seatbelt. It wouldn't Pull out. Final cost: the sacraficial ball point pen, I needed the spring.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

I bought my 240 for $800 three years ago and it has never left me stranded and it has always started even at -30C in our Canadian winters, I consider this very good for a now 30 year old car. I would also point out that most car enthusiasts would keep their favorite car on the road more for the love than the money.

An attempt at clinical treatment of a non clinical subject.

Value...which type is being discussed?

1. Monitary worth or/andmaterial worth, which happen to be subjective and will vary upon who is determining a value figure. A 1990 is worth $1500. A 1970 is worth $6800 etc. Much less if you are an insurance company getting ready to pay off. Latter for clarification only. May not actually occur. Subject to terms and contract etc... Basically your value estimate and their value eatimate are not the same.

2. Equivalent worth or return in money, material, services, etc... which can be more objective to determine.

In the above, return in services for comparison between differnt vehicles could be defined as a Cost per mile which includes everything that it takes to keep the auto moving and on the road.

Initial cost, depreciation, insurance, registration, gas, oil, tires, repairs ad infinitum divided by miles or estimated miles driven.

One could argue that spend an amount $1000 on a vehicle worth $1000 and car is still worth $1000 and if wrecked you are out that $1000 that could be used toward another more valuable vehicle. Sounds good???

Take that $1000, apply that toward a vehcile worth $4000, and you have a vehcile worth $4000 that if totaled the next day you would be out $4000. A loss of $3000 more than the initial $1000.

Same arguement, both invalid conclusions. Both appear to be objective conclusions of worth but is based upon subjective bias (the worth of the car). Invalid conclusion.

If it will take $1000 for a repair, and that repair will allow 50,000 miles, then that repair would cost 2 cents per mile from that point forward. Anything beyound the original estimate just decreases cost per mile of ownership.

Spend $4000 on a car for 50,000 miles of use and cost is 8 cents.

There is subjectivity involved within any value judgement. The more objective information one uses to determine actual value, the sounder the judgement.

IMOP.

My 85 245 currently is about 12 cents and the 90 245 is about 13 cents. Major difference is in the insurance coverage. A while ago I looked at a couple of other vehicles When the 85 was giving me fits. Est cost was 38 cents per mile for the first year for the 2003. Near 58 cents per mile for the 2008.

With those figures, the 85 began looking pretty valuable to me and with a bit more detrmination, found the problem which cost $28 to fix plus about six hours of my labor.

I'm still saving money.

Duane

I have been driving a 240 since 1991. 16 years driving the same model car. That tells you something. My first was a '90 245 purchased used with 15,000 miles. I retired it in 2005 with 302,000 miles when the electrical gremlins and glitches got to be too much to deal with. It only stranded me once when the LH CPU died early in it's life. (known problem) Except for a couple of spots on the leading edge of the hood and the lip of the tailgate, the body had no rust. In 2005 I replaced it with a '93 245 with 88,000 miles. I'm still driving it and it currently has 170,000 miles. They did a lot of nice things to the '93 240's before they ended the production: suspension upgrades, more sound insulation, R134 A/C, quieter blower motor, misc. interior upgrades and they even added squirters to the block to lube the undersides of the pistons. The nice part about owning a 16 year old car is that I can drive it until a major failure ends its service and no hard feelings or disappointment. Until then, just fix the routine normal stuff as it occurs. The way it's running, I expect to reach 250K without any repairs to the engine or tranny.

Indeed you are!
Well put!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

its a car, and that's how cars are. it can be a Kia, a Volvo, a Ferrari...

You buy a car for X dollars, fix something that breaks for Y dollars, the car is not worth X+Y dollars now. It's still worth X only.

There are a few exceptions, but not many.

Now admittedly, some cars cost more to fix than others, and some cars aren't worth very much. Volvo 240s being one of them... and I think that's what the guy was getting at. High maintenance costs is part of why they are cheap to buy into. Look at recent prices on '80s and '90s Mercedes and Audi.. you can get a hell of a lot of car for the money.

maintenance is part of the cost of driving a car, owning a lawnmower, a house. Just part of the deal.

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

I drive 'em 'cuz I love 'em. Not sure why. Old school "European-ness", I guess.

I do agree, if you aren't willing to DIY even just the minor niggles, a 240 can get pricey, as can any 20 year old car.

Though if we want to play financial:

A new VW Jetta costs $2,000 a year just to *lease*, then there's insurance, etc. So 3 years, and $6,000 later you've got nothing to show. Whereas with a RWD Volvo, it's actually kinda hard to spend that much money. I doubt we have that much money in all *three* of our Volvo's combined over the last three years.

That's a best case scenario. Nowadays, car makers design cars to last the life of the lease... and not much more. Used cars made in the last few years are all really pricey to keep running.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

I agree with Ted: this is an empty statement. This guy needs to explain himself and show some numbers if he wants to back up such a claim.

There is also the hidden assumption that a car is "worth" more than it's value as transportation. My car gets me where I'm going. Its value lies in its use as transportation (just like 95% of the cars on the road) and since I can easily and cheaply fix anything that goes wrong with my 240, usually in an evening before work or school the next day, it has a high transportation value. This sort of worth will not decline rapidly, which is why 240's kept their monetary value so well, for so long.

I remember the Blue Book on my car a few years ago was still $5000 for a 15 year old car. That reflects the real value of the car as safe, reliable, economical transportation. Unfortunately, our cars are getting old; old enough that many repairs are needed, entire suspension rebuilds, even engine ovehauls occasionally. The value for the average driver goes down accordingly, because these things are beyond his abilities and represent huge inconvenience and cost. So Blue Book prices also fall.

But the value to us, we select few who can do eveything from a tune-up to a tranny swap, and who can effect most repairs on the side of the road with minimal tools, will never diminish.

I did not buy my car to make money on, and anybody who thinks they can buy a car that will "hold its value" or perhaps even increase in value is not just ignorant, they are stupid. A car is not an investment; it is consumable.

I'm fully in agreement with "Trichard" and "Pageda" -- what it boils down to is that 240s are not supposed to be an investment!

Your opening statement of your friend implicitly presupposes that you're supposed to consider the resale value of the car in deciding when to "trade up", so to speak (and I'll wager that your friend has a much newer car that he plans to use as a trade-in on his next car -- why do you hang around with someone like that? :-).
So that's a fine strategy for a much newer model year car that we will use as a trade-in for our next purchase -- if we were inclined to, and had the disposable wealth, to regularly do that. Those "we's" in that last sentence doesn't apply to most of us.

In contrast, most of us on this forum know that we will be the last owners of our 240s -- we'll keep them until they're ready for the wrecking (recycling) yards. So for us, the "value" is not a fair-market price, but simply the value to us in having a reliable and easy fix-it-yourself car to keep the maintenance cost down to a minimum.

It's all in how RESOURCEFUL you allow yourself to be.
There are three types of people that own/operate passenger vehicles

1) The Driver. This person just loves the grip of the steering wheel and usually has had a few more moving violations than he's willing to admit. Yet they are very observant and can anticipate moves. But heaven forbid he should have a problem with the vehicle. They typically know a good repair shop to take care of them and tend to cater to the aftermarket sales.

2)The Commuter. Basically this person knows the general concepts of driving as stated in the Drivers Manual provided to a 16 yr old during his exams. They lack the ability to STAY OFF a pedal and coast CUZ they think a car is only a GO or STOP funtion. They tend be oblivious to all circumstances outside the vehicle (insert iPod and Text Messaging here)

3) The Mechanic. Not talking ASE cert, but a very knowledgible towards many features of the vehicle and how they should sound while in operation. Can actually live WITHOUT copholders in a car. This person tends to have a subtle amount of upgrades within the vehicle to enhance his driving comfort or enjoyment. Can ride with much more confidence knowing that the tools he has left on the floor board may actually help him get out of a jam if the car gives him trouble. (lol) He will not buy EVERYTHING NEW to achieve a desired result.

the first two will GLADLY pay an exorbitant amount of money to have the "new car smell" along with a peace of mind they they got till at least 100,00 miles before something bad goes wrong then it's time to hit the RESET BUTTON on monthly bills... so burn those miles up QUICK!

Most of us here should N_O_T NEED a definition of the 3rd guy, cuz it's BEING that guy is what brought you to this site. So we can ALL say we're rather resourceful.

2cents
--
'92 244 NOW w/ M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings)

I'll echo Pageda: Auto mechanic work is, what, $50+/hour (oh please folks on the coasts - don't tell me how with the Yorkshire self-made men you DREAM of $50/ hour ...)

240s are $200-$2K cars. I don't know how someone can afford to pay a mechanic to fix one. I get along by keeping multiple parts cars and doing my own work. And helping friends w/ 240s.

Recently a friend blew a head gasket. I used Marino's estimated $400 repair cost. My friend paid $350 for his car so to double it for a repair? Instead I gave him a motor and we spent 1 day installing it - an easy day w/ coffee and lunch breaks. I've sold just 1 240 motor in 10 years so wasn't really a huge favor.

I'm renting a car next week to take a 2K-mile trip. Because my old 240 needs some work that I won't get to in time and my good 240 is parked for the winter. So $190 rental and 35+ MPG or $0 rental cost and 22 MPG with some breakdown probability. If I broke down eg. 500 miles from home I'd have to come back to get a trailer or just abandon the car. Or I could of course take various spares and repair on the road but a main fuel pump or timing belt is a lot of work under those conditions.

Net, 240s are reliable and predictable so $1K purchase cost plus, say, $600-$1000/ year in repair costs still leaves you with a < $75/ monthly cost over say 10 years. Doing your own work and buying parts right cuts that further.

I've found and serviced several for friends who send their kids off for 3-4 years of college in them. $500 purchase price plus 2 fuel pumps, CPS, and timing belt initially + brakes, tires, battery, water pump, misc over 3-4 years - not bad.
--
240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars

the concept of relative value in a wasting asset is not limited to cars. in fact the most expensive wasting asset most people ever buy is their house. any good purchased for consumption and constant use is a wasting asset.

if you buy a car for bling reasons: to be seen, to keep with the jones's, because you think it will get you laid or a host of other make believe reasons you are spending money on something which will NEVER ammortize its costs over the life of the purchase. this concept alone deems buying a new car for 30 or 40k or more a fools errand. which is why billions is spent on advertising to overcome our common sense. without absurd financing deals these purchases in the volumes the car makers desire become impossible.

on a mathematical basis. if you buy a sound 240 for 2000-3000 dollars or even less and are good about up keep your cost of ownership over 10 years time becomes a few dollars a day to drive a safe car in comfort and 'elan' (in my opinion). if you buy a 40k car the same day as your 240 for 3k over the same 10 years period you new car will cost you MANY multiples of a few dollars a day.

you friend first of all has no understanding of mathematics and why math is never wrong. his statement has a madison avenue sound to it which obstensibly seems logical but is in fact nonsense and devoid of basic mathematical understanding and the concepts of wasting assets.

only the most rare of cars value ever keeps pace with the cost of its repair. they are by definition bought to consume. virtually nothing in human existence bought for daily use grows in inflation adjusted terms in value....just look at bubble real estate.

example: here in masachusetts the john hancock tower, bostons signature building was sold in a foreclosure last week with 1 bidder for 20 million dollars and and assumption of 660 million dollar mortgage (at 5.6%...try and get those terms now for that amount))

the previous owners paid 1.3 billion in 2006. if you factor in the low mortgage rate the new buyers bought this crowning i.m pei designed office tower for a price which is 97% financed at way below market rates for the amount involved.

buy the good 240, keep it up and at the end of 10 years your friend who made the stupid statement below

..............the values of the 240's are not keeping pace with the cost of their repairs and parts 200 ................


will be 1000's of dollar poorer than you are for not buying a sound 240.

Don't see my 240 as having sex appeal. Chances of scoring in such a car are 660 million to 1. On the other hand this car has such a powerful heater that the windows do steam up a lot so at least they got the impression that you scored in it. So my question today is that I am hopefully down to a bad fuel pump. Can they get to the point of weak? What happens, car dies but if I take vise grips and clamp the return line on fuel rail it runs not well but runs and if removed dies instantly. ..... I replaced the pressure regulator and made no difference. Sadly I cannot find a place that will rent a guage to test it. Am seriously thinking of trying to adapt a freon recharge kit guage and permanently leave it in. It seems to me that when the car decides to run ok the fuel pump made a high pitch noise rather than the steady hum it does now. In tank pump makes a steady hum. I get the impression it is there simply to get gas down to the main pump since I can unhook it in the trunk and car stays running. My neighbor has sender from a chevy truck I am tempted to look at it and see if it could be adapt its fuel pump just to test/rule it out. Just recently however it lost spark which was the loving ign module. If it runs on the chevy fuel pump likely will just stay in there as I am tired of dumping more $$$ into the car. When the car runs right it goes very well gets 25mpg and flys along at 70mph barely touching the gas. Spark problem I actually drove the car home in diesel type mode limping along at 40 mph with gas 1/2 throttle. Wondering also where fuel pump is grounded. Wires run along frame but I suspect they must pass into the body somewhere.

I agree! Maybe its just me but I would gladly spend money on a 240 because I like them. I have always liked them and regardless of what the cost is to keep them running good, I will pay it. I don't think this is unreasonable for me, because it is a car that I enjoy and am happy to drive and see everyday. I start to second guess myself when people who don't understand the love affair I have with the 240 make comments that make no sense to me about the value of a 240. Edmunds or kbb values some of these cars as low as $200, is that what some 240s are worth? Sure - but I value mine much higher, because I would much rather drive my 240 than my new MB wagon or BMW 3 series convertible - is this crazy? I don't think so because it is what makes me happy. So if someone is just talking about the cost of the metal, plastic, vinyl and cloth of the 240 a car that is 15+ years old with 100k plus miles there is very little value and you are wasting your money. If you value the 240 because you have always loved them and would rather drive one than almost any other car and would gladly spend 10-15k for one in pristine condition and dream of the day volvo makes the 240 (in its exact original condition) again, they are worth what somebody like me is willing to pay for one. Does that make me a sucker? I think it makes me somebody who is going to keep these 240s on the road for a long time, happily spending what every it takes and enjoying every minute!

I agree! Maybe its just me but I would gladly spend money on a 240 because I like them. I have always liked them and regardless of what the cost is to keep them running good, I will pay it. I don't think this is unreasonable for me, because it is a car that I enjoy and am happy to drive and see everyday. I start to second guess myself when people who don't understand the love affair I have with the 240 make comments that make no sense to me about the value of a 240. Edmunds or kbb values some of these cars as low as $200, is that what some 240s are worth? Sure - but I value mine much higher, because I would much rather drive my 240 than my new MB wagon or BMW 3 series convertible - is this crazy? I don't think so because it is what makes me happy. So if someone is just talking about the cost of the metal, plastic, vinyl and cloth of the 240 a car that is 15+ years old with 100k plus miles there is very little value and you are wasting your money. If you value the 240 because you have always loved them and would rather drive one than almost any other car and would gladly spend 10-15k for one in pristine condition and dream of the day volvo makes the 240 (in its exact original condition) again, they are worth what somebody like me is willing to pay for one. Does that make me a sucker? I think it makes me somebody who is going to keep these 240s on the road for a long time, happily spending what every it takes and enjoying every minute!

friday night i missed buying a 1994 940 2 owner sedan with 124k mile on it for 750 off craigslist by 5 minutes. i was the second caller and the fist guy bought it. i was going to buy it sight unseen. this was the car

1994 sedan 940 na
leather, sunroof
124k
crankshaft front oil leak
needs new exhaust

body 100% perfect...no dents no rust, no accidents
ac cold
after speaking with the owner i knew this was a diamond going for s STEAL.

this car needed maybe 200 dollars to be flawless and he sold it for 750 or OBO.

it sold to the first caller.

You did indeed miss a deal!

Hey, I once bought a 69 BMW 1600 for $200!! And drove it for a year then sold it for $350. Only car I've ever made money on....:)

The 93, 94 and 95 940's have the oil squirters to cool the pistons and are perhaps the strongest, and possibly the longest lasting, of the red block engines. Certainly the best of the b230f engine series.

940's normally don't rust either. That freaking car will probably run for another 15 years.

I tried for a number of years to find a good 94 or 95 940 turbo wagon with reasonable miles for a reasonable price. Finally gave up and bought my 850 with 88k for $1500. Body is a little nicked up, but she runs great!

Nearby there is a pretty clean 92 940 wagon with 160k, all the usual options including AC, moonroof and surprise - 240 type cloth seats! Unlike leather, the Volvo cloth seats wear like iron. Unfortunately, a used car dealer has it.
--
93 850GLT, 90 244DL 291k :)

If you have to pay somebody to maintain your car that is true. If you learn to do it yourself the 240 is pretty cheap to keep going. Dan

Every thing is relative. I am 63 years old and have been a car nut all my life. I have owned a lot of cars (56 MGA, 58 VW bug, 55 Thunderbird, 63 Studebaker Avanti, 69 Z28 Camaro, 74 Datsun 260 Z,) were some of the most enjoyable. Presently I have 4 cars, the Datsun Z and 3 Volvos ( 83 244 intercooled turbo, 87 244, and 90 244). I have fallen in love with 240s for a number of intangible(as opposed to monetary)reasons. So many were made and they were steadily improved each year (no planned obsolescence). The design and engineering is fairly straight forward which makes them a dream for the DIY guy. There is an abundance of inexpensive parts available on ebay, BB,TB, etc. The people who participate in these online line forums are extremely generous with their extraordinary knowledge of these vehicles. If your car is not idling right you can take it to the shop and pay $300 for a new idle air control valve + $200 labor, or you can go online, get detailed instructions, spend an hour cleaning and lubing the old valve and be back on the road with an extra $500 to purchase that B234F 16 valve head listed on ebay. These are versatile vehicles, you can tune them to get 30 mpg, or you can mod them to embarrass most so called new sport sedans, either between red lights or on the twistys. The crumple zones make a good suit of armor to protect you from a road full of drivers who lack either the hand eye coordination or the intellect to use a clutch. A well maintained 240 will never get any cheaper, in fact they will probably increase in value as more of the rational people decide that they are not wort the repair costs and send them to the crusher (case in point, wish I still had the 55 Bird, the Avanti, or the Z28) I am retired and I get a sense of accomplishment by successfully designing and installing a cold air induction system. If I didn't have my Volvos to tinker with every day I would probably just sit on my but watching the crap on TV, get fat and out of shape, and end up in a nursing home with no drivers license. My cars would sit and rust because none of my kids can shift the gears. Thank God for my Volvos.
Bill Arrington

You hit the nail on the head my friend...

OK, I agree with everything you said and then some. I have 5 running 240's and one parts car (242 turbo intercooled). I am not the gear head that I think you must be, so when you say "you can tune them to get 30 mpg" I decided that you better send me a step by step how to on that. I need that knowledge and I bet a lot of other casual shade tree guys like me would love to get that. I gather you don't mean driving 40 in a 65. Any step by step info on how to do that would be appreciated!!!!!

I don't do anything special other than run all synthetic fluids keep it properly tuned, tires properly inflated and seldom run AC but my 87 NA with M47 5 speed routinely gets 29-30 mpg at 60-65 mph. I do have cold air induction and a 2.5 inch exhaust with no cat running straight back the passenger side and out single glass pack muffler.
Bill Arrington

Howdy John,

I have pretty much ignored this thread but it kept popping up so I read the most recent posts this morning.

...when you say "you can tune them to get 30 mpg" I decided that you better send me a step by step how to on that.

Pretty much the one and only step:

1. Install M47 manual trans.

BAM! 32mpg easy. :-)

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

1. M47

Plus

2. LH 3.1

WRONG! :-)

Wish I knew why this keeps on getting perpetuated. The '90 245 in my sig with LH 2.4 does a solid 32mpg on the highway, and has seen 34mpg on one tank, but that was an outliar. Variable terrain, as well (mountains).

LH 2.4 does just as well as 3.1, since we're talking *highway* mileage. Knowing the precise throttle position is moot since it's all about stoichiometry, based somewhat on the AMM, but mostly the O2 sensor. LH 2.2 could probably do about as well.

Yes, LH 3.1 will help you a bit with "around town" driving, as throttle position is more variable, and the ECU will get a bit more reaction time... but LH 2.4 is still surprisingly efficient for what it is. Of course, both LH 2.4 and 3.1 are stone age nowadays. :-)

-Ryan

--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

What is the value of owning the greatest car ever imagined? OK, I'm biased, but it's hard to beat a 240, especially if one can turn a wrench.

The rising cost of parts and repair bills if taken to a shop to get worked on is good news for those of us who do all our own repairs. there's some great deals out there. If a 240 owner is told they need to spend $800 for a timing belt, front seals, and new brake pads and rotors, chances are they will sell it cheap to one of us instead.

Case in point. I bought an 89 244 recently that needed the above work and the girl who owned it was quoted $800 to do the work. I picked it up for $700. It has Bilstein HD's front and rear with 40k on them, lowering springs, IPD sway bars, chassis braces, IPD 2 1/4 inch exhaust, poly rear bushings, 16" alloys with almost new Conti tires, 5 VDO guages, tinted windows, perfect black interior, an M47, and a kick *ss Alpine 6 speaker stereo with amp. I've got about $1000 into the car and it's worth twice that easy. I own 4 240's now and I doubt I will ever sell any of them. Saw another one on craigslist yesterday that I tried to buy but I was too late. A black on black 89 with a blown motor that the guy sold for $200. He told me he couldn't come up with the $2500 for a new motor.