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Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  Caliper reseal 120-130 1967 posted by  Aidan on  Thu Apr 3 16:31 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Sun Nov 15 14:21 CST 2009 [RELATED] Hi, Just a quick question - following an incident with a smoking caliper I decided that a rebuild was on the cards. I've stripped the first caliper and found pitted pistons, a little gunge and some rust on the lip between the o ring seal and the lip of the cylinder. Is it ok to clean this up with something like 1200 grade wet and dry sandpaper (with a thorough clean afterwards) or is there a better way of going about this? Its a single circuit system so I'd like to get it right first time. I haven't split the caliper - just removed the seals and pistons. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and comments, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269352/120-130/caliper_reseal.html">Caliper reseal</a>

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  READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  Caliper reseal 120-130 1967 posted by  MrV on  Fri Apr 4 09:41 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Wed Nov 11 19:16 CST 2009 [RELATED] I have never had any success bringing a bad piston back to life. I wouldn't bother trying. Dean Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269487/120-130/caliper_reseal.html">Caliper reseal</a>

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    READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  "bringing a bad piston back to life' is 120-130 1967 posted by  Ron Kwas on  Fri Apr 4 14:48 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009 [RELATED] ...just about impossible!...that's because when they corrode, the chrome plating flakes off, and a pit underneath results...and the seal doesn't have the compliance to reach into that pit to seal it...so I agree, if the pistons are pitted, they're toast and need to be replaced...and to do that, SS, which will never again develop pits sound pretty good to me to do that! Polishing and rechroming may be a possibility, but pricey (unless you BIL has a plating business). Cheers Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269536/120-130/bringing_bad_piston_back_life.html">"bringing a bad piston back to life' is</a>

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      READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  "bringing a bad piston back to life' is 120-130 1967 posted by  Aidan on  Fri Apr 4 18:49 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Sun Nov 15 14:21 CST 2009 [RELATED] I've managed to find new pistons so I'll put them in along with new seals - they're not SS but they'll keep me going for the next few years at least. I've cleaned up the cylinders with wet and dry sandpaper - just a bit of surface rust - nothing too major. Have to replace the pads too as the overheating caused them to break up - the disk/rotor seems to be ok - I've put a dial guage on it and it seems to be straight enough. Thanks for the responses and thanks to Ron for the suggestion on his Swem site about using hydraulic pressure to push the pistons out - it made life a lot easier. -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269560/120-130/bringing_bad_piston_back_life.html">"bringing a bad piston back to life' is</a>

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        READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  TNX...Hydraulic force is your friend! NT 120-130 1967 posted by  Ron Kwas on  Sat Apr 5 05:46 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009 [RELATED] Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269605/120-130/tnxhydraulic_force_friend_nt.html">TNX...Hydraulic force is your friend! NT</a>

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        READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  new pistons 120-130 1967 posted by  Danny on  Fri Apr 4 21:15 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Fri Nov 20 15:28 CST 2009 [RELATED] Where did you find them and what did they cost? Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269575/120-130/new_pistons.html">new pistons</a>

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          READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  new pistons 120-130 1967 posted by  Aidan on  Sat Apr 5 05:10 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Sun Nov 15 14:21 CST 2009 [RELATED] Hi, I got them from CVI Automotive - they sell a kit for 870 Swedish Kroner. They also sell rebuilt calipers but they'd be costly in terms of shipping (especially as you have to send back the originals). As you're based in the US I'd imagine that it'd be cheaper for you to source them from a Volvo specialist there - the stainless steel ones from John Farrel in NY that Rhys mentioned seem like a better long term solution. Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269602/120-130/new_pistons.html">new pistons</a>

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            READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  Remind me, please. Who is John Farrel? 120-130 1967 posted by  RepairmanJack on  Sat Apr 5 10:16 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Wed Nov 11 08:54 CST 2009 [RELATED] Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269648/120-130/remind_please_john_farrel.html">Remind me, please. Who is John Farrel?</a>

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              READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  Remind me, please. Who is John Farrel? 120-130 1967 posted by  Aidan on  Sat Apr 5 10:59 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Sun Nov 15 14:21 CST 2009 [RELATED] This guy? http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/tread/1046/id23.htm -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269652/120-130/remind_please_john_farrel.html">Remind me, please. Who is John Farrel?</a>

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  READ ONLY    PRINT   SAVE  Caliper reseal 120-130 1967 posted by  Rhys on  Thu Apr 3 19:18 CST 2008 Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]     [IGNORE ALL POSTS] last visit: Sun Nov 1 01:44 CST 2009 [RELATED] You can do anything you want to clean the bores and the seal grooves, but the pistons must be perfect, and if they are pitted they must be replaced. Stainless ones are available from John Farrel in NY, and I have used them on many cars to great success. Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post. Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1269382/120-130/caliper_reseal.html">Caliper reseal</a>

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