Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum
INDEX FOR 11/2009(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 3/2008 120-130 INDEX INDEX (NO RELOAD)| THREADED |
|
THREADED EXPANDED |
|
FLAT |
|
PRINT ALL |
| MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD |
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
|
[about brickboard ads] |
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by Ron Kwas on Sun Mar 23 07:18 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009[RELATED]Rene;
The (Velleman ) Kit which Dean refers to uses a couple of CMOS chips which will draw power all the time (even when IGN is OFF)...now as CMOS devices consume basically fleapower, from an electrical standpoint, this is not an issue (your car battery selfdischarges at a rate faster than the microamp load of these little devices, so it will never even know its there!! ), so if you don't have a philosophical problem installing a sensitive solid state electronic device in your car, I would say for $15, that kit is hard to beat...
...on the other hand, if you prefer something even simpler and more robust (you didn't think that was possible did you!), install a simple relay with a "Form C" contact, hooked up to have the coil powered ONLY when IGN ON, and to give you a node with power (only) WHEN IGN IS OFF. Then, power a beeper/buzzer across that terminal to the light switch output...DONE! This solution is even simpler, with only two components and hook-up required! I can supply circuit if required.
RJ; Thanks for reference, as always!
Bill; If you had more than a volt drop from the light switch to the headlights, I suggest it wasn't in the wire, but at connections (like the six pin connector or maybe ground at headlight harness). The original wire guage is perfectly adequite for the original load, even Halogen upgrades! Your upgrade to relay power will certainly work, but it is IMO a use-a-cannon-to-squish-a-fly-solution, and waaaaaayyyyyy more than Rene needs to do (from standpoint of complexity AND time to implement), simply to get a headlight reminder function.
Cheers
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY 
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by volvorine on Sun Mar 23 19:52 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Wed Oct 7 21:07 CST 2009[RELATED]Hi Ron, I like the second option. Is it possible to obtain a schematic diagram? I tried to decipher the connections from your description but I'm more of the visual type. BTW, I have received the starter switch, brake-light switch upgrade and emergency flasher switch and installed them with no problems. The brake-light switch upgrade has made me feel more comfortable driving in stop-and-go traffic. The other upgrade I have in mind is a 3rd brake light.
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by Ron Kwas on Mon Mar 24 16:16 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009[RELATED]Volvorine;
This circuit will do it with minimum parts count:
<>img src="http://www.sw-em.com/Circuit_for_Lights_ON_Reminder.jpg"
Cheers
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Second try 120-130 1966
posted by Ron Kwas on Mon Mar 24 16:16 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009[RELATED]
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Additional Information... 120-130 1966
posted by Ron Kwas on Mon Mar 24 17:46 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009[RELATED]...the circuit shown is actually different from the earlier verbal explanation (so disregard!)...after thinking about it, I changed it a bit and made it as simple as possible, locating relay under the hood, powered by the Fuse 2 circuit (or Fuse 1 if there is an empty terminal available), and included a single wire routed through the firewall, to the beeper/buzzer located under the dash somewhere...the standard BOSCH form C relay (inexpensively available, with a Normally Open NO and a Normally Closed NC contact) is powered when IGN is ON. At that time, ground is removed from Neg side of beeper, so if lights are turned ON, beeper will not sound. With IGN OFF, low side circuit of beeper is completed to chassis, so if lights are also turned ON, power is supplied to beeper high side and it will sound...simple!
Use in conjunction with 122 wiring diargam: http://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg
Cheers
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Additional Information... 120-130 1966
posted by volvorine on Tue Mar 25 15:13 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Wed Oct 7 21:07 CST 2009[RELATED]A big thank you to Ron for the schematics and to everybody who responded. The next upgrades on my Volvo will be Hella 3rd brake light, Ron's lights on reminder and high-gloss metallic chrome paint on tailight bulb holder-reflectors. Again, thanks to all.
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
-
-
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE 3rd Brakelight 120-130 1966
posted by RepairmanJack on Sun Mar 23 20:18 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Wed Nov 11 08:54 CST 2009[RELATED]I just installed a 3rd brakelight kit from Daniel Stern Lighting. The service and communication were excellent. Mr. Stern is a volvo guy and knows his stuff very well.
The LED Hella unit is also very nice and fit the rear window perfectly. $50.00 was *maybe* a little steep, but well worth it in my opinion. It has worked flawlessly since I installed it and it is very unobtrusive at the bottom of my rear window.
Alternatively, you can go much cheaper with a universal unit from JCWhitney, but I think that getting a quality hella unit (appropriate for a volvo) is worth the extra cost.
Also, if you have not done this yet, remove your rear tailight bulb holder-reflectors and paint them with high-gloss metallic chrome paint. It makes huge improvement in luminosity.
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE 3rd Brakelight 120-130 1966
posted by spectratone on Mon Mar 24 01:08 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 09:40 CST 2009[RELATED]I just finished covering all the tailamp reflector surfaces with aluminized mylar on both of my cars.
I also clad every surface (bulkheads, sides) on the inside of the tailamp lenses, that isn't required to pass light, with highly polished stainless steel sheet.
Upon viewing my turn signals after the first lamp assembly was upgraded, the thought that came to mind was 'It reminds me of a lighthouse!'... the mother is seriously bright; as bright as if not brighter than a new Volvo.
I also added stainless to the bulkheads of the front turn signal lenses and gained a substantial increase in light output and side projection.
I've now replaced every single bulb on my wagon (except the headlights) with high brightness LED bulbs; the brake and turn signal bulbs were replaced partly because I wanted the sharp-edged on/off characteristic of LED's so I could compete with the obnoxiously bright lights newer cars are sporting.
The LED bulbs also pull 1/5th the current that incandescent bulbs do, so I don't hear my blower motor pulsing to the rhythm of the turn signals anymore; I'm guessing I've knocked off at least 8 amps of potential current draw by getting rid of the incandescent bulbs
Let's face it; a dirty bulb behind a dirty, scratched lens with a dull, corroded reflector just doesn't cut it. The American market red/white tailamps are also inferior to the European amber/red/white lenses when it comes to passing light, the American lenses are just too dark.
Bill
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE 3rd Brakelight 120-130 1966
posted by 48pop on Mon Mar 24 10:01 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Tue Jul 15 12:46 CST 2008[RELATED]Hi Bill,
Can I ask where you got your LED replacement bulbs....?
I have ocassionally run on sidelights only.....and am amazed at how many folks miss them completley...Before nest winter, I'm going to replace my sealed beam headlights with a unit that also contains the sidelight, larger surface area should be easier to see.
Cheers
Gerry
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE 3rd Brakelight 120-130 1966
posted by spectratone on Mon Mar 24 18:46 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 09:40 CST 2009[RELATED]I got these bulbs from this place:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/1156-xLX5.htm
They are not cheap, but they are bright. You do want to get the 5 watt bulbs for turn signal and brake light applications. Side marker lights should use a lower power bulb.
I don't think the 5 watt bulbs will fit into the front parking lamp sockets, but the 3 watt bulbs might.
If you do the turn signals with these bulbs, you should do all four at once and use the electronic flasher module. The electronic flasher module only handles 30 watts, so you don't want to mix incandescent and LED bulbs on the same circuit.
The flasher you would need is the FL2.
Note that the festoon-type bulbs they offer can replace your courtesy light bulb and license plate light bulbs. One of the high power bulbs in your courtesy light socket will light the inside of the car up bright enough for your granny to do needlepoint. They will be offering warm white bulbs in about a month; cool white is kind of...cold..
If you modify your lenses and reflectors the way I described earlier in this thread, your light output will increase so much that you may be perfectly happy with incandescent bulbs. LED bulbs will help if you are still running a generator/dynamo, though.
There's not much you can do to improve the light output from the parking lights using any kind of off the shelf incandescent bulb; there is simply not enough room and you would run the risk of melting plastic if you did manage to shoehorn a higher wattage bulb into the enclosure.
The 3 watt amber LED bulb (equivalent to about a 15 watt incandescent) might be a good choice if it fits; I think a lower power amber bulb is more visible than a lower power white bulb in this application.
Let me know how it works out.
Bill
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
-
-
-
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by spectratone on Sun Mar 23 13:03 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 09:40 CST 2009[RELATED]I had to suggest the relay upgrade as an option; I hate it when cars buzz, beep or ding at me.
Going with headlight relays was desired for the alarm system I'm installing, picking up a few volts was a bonus.
I'd like to find some barbed spade type connectors like the kind Volvo used in those 6 pin connectors; I know somebody still makes them, because my MSD6 unit came with a couple of short harness pieces with those ends on them. I want to make some new wiring harnesses to go with my LED parking light-fog light conversion (9 watts of amber Luxeon III emitters per lamp assembly)
Bill
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by Ron Kwas on Sun Mar 23 16:53 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 16:37 CST 2009[RELATED]Bill;
I certainly agree...I only want those kinds of nags for real important things, but forgetting to turn Off the headlights is one of those...
The "barbed spade type connectors" are (somewhat) standard industrial connectors intended for use with a multiple conductor housings...try the manufacturer AMP.
Cheers
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
-
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by MrV on Sat Mar 22 22:31 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Wed Nov 11 19:16 CST 2009[RELATED]I bought one of these
http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/K3505
Works great.
Dean
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by RepairmanJack on Sat Mar 22 21:54 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Wed Nov 11 08:54 CST 2009[RELATED]You could probably get the information you need by reviewing the wiring diagram for an 1800E. That setup has a warning buzzer (of some sort) and you could probably adapt it to warn you about the lighting circuit being open when the key is off.
I myself have been interested in the 740-style feature where the lights turn off when you switch off the car, but you still have the option of shutting them off with the regular switch.
Ron Kwas, the volvo electrical guru, warns about putting too much load (?) on the ignition switch as it is not capable of carrying heavy loads such as the lighting circuit. I'm thinking some sort of relayed setup might work.
There may already be a discussion of this feature over at sw-em.com
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-
READ ONLY
PRINT
SAVE Headlight Buzzer 120-130 1966
posted by spectratone on Sat Mar 22 22:22 CST 2008
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS]
[IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Fri Nov 20 09:40 CST 2009[RELATED]I installed a pair of relays to switch my headlights on and off, and to switch between high and low beam, and gained 1.2 volts in low beam and and 1.7 volts on high beams, running a nice fat wire directly from the battery. The headlights are noticeably brighter.
Everything is still controlled the original way; I happen to like the floor mounted high beam switch, thank you.
You could do something similar, and feed the headlight switch from the ignition circuit (fuseblock)instead of the battery. The relay coils (new Bosch) only pull about 2 watts each.
You need a single pole single-throw relay to turn the headlights on and off, and a single pole double-throw relay to switch between high and low beams.
The whole project took less than two hours and cost about 22 dollars.
Bill
Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere:
-