Volvo RWD 200 Forum

it's a glorious sunday afternoon on long island and i've decided to install my drawtight modulite trailer light power module part #18187 (from ipd) on my 91 245. well, maybe not. do i really have to run a wire from the little unit all the way to the battery? i searched the archives and somebody was lucky to tap into his unused power antenna feed. i dont have a power antenna installed and so far, cant find any unused lead so i assume a power antenna never was an option on a wagon (not much room to install one on a wagon from what i can see(). if not, then anyone have any other good ideas to avoid the wire snake to the battery? thanks in advance.
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oceanre 91 240 wagon 260k

Ocean,

Running power leads from the battery to the rear, is pretty simple, I've supplied power to rear SubW amps in both my 244Ti and 745T. The longest part of the run is a piece of cake, from just before the fire wall to rear cargo/trunk. Remove (gently pry up)the plastic threshold caps on the driver's side door frames and simply run the wire along the edge of the carpet and snap the covers back in place. I install a 25 amp water proof inline fuse/holder near the positive connection at the battery. Use an exisiting wire passage to run the new wire through the firewall into the engine bay. In all a 10 to 20 minute, relatively simple procedure.

Bob, "B.C.", wrote that he suggested hooking up to the battery anyway because the antenna power wire isn't heavy. That's a good idea, but does your trailer happen to have LED lights, rather than incandescent bulbs? If so, your antenna wire would be more than adequate, because the LED trailer lights use a small fraction of the amps required of incandescents.

If your trailer is also a boat trailer.... I converted both of my trailers (for two boats) to LED lights -- not only less of a load on the car's systems, but they are impervious to moisture, so I can dunk the trailers in the water without worry of the lamp housings leaking, or doing a thermal shock to the hot bulbs (or alternatively have to always remember to disconnect the wires, and then remember to reconnect them when I starting driving). I really recommend them -- I use SeaSense brand, by the way.

thanks for everyone's input. i am going to look in the spare tire compartment for that lead and yes, it's a boat trailer. i got it for free so you can guess what kind of shape it's in. new lights are in order and the led light suggestion intrigues me. ken c, is this what you mean (ebay item #4576145256)? if so, do you think that will work with the drawtite module i have? also i didnt realize how relatively easy running the wire would be, thanks for the tips. you know, when you're staring down problem or a project on a brick it's comforting to know there's a bunch of guys looking over your shoulder giving you good advice (like friendly neighbors who dont overstay their welcome). i wish i had a case of beer handy for us all. i'll report back so the results will be in the archive. thanks again!
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oceanre 91 240 wagon 260k

You should also take note of this. That eBay ad is copied almost verbatim from an original SeaSense ad, in which it incorrectly reads in part, "...The right light has additional LEDs to light the license plate...."

Well, that's wrong, but better. Most states (maybe the feds) require trailers to have the license plate mounted on the left (driver's) side. I don't know why SeaSense wrote the above phrase, and before I bought my first one, I had concerns about this and called the company ... but it turned out that they assured me that the downward facing white LEDs for illuminating the license plate (hanging below) was on the left unit -- and they were right. The left unit is indeed the one with the extra license plate LEDs, despite their wrong ad copy.
By the way, be sure to notice this when you start to install your lights, selecting the right and left ones! Their right or left-handedness is primarily determined by the side that has the red, side LEDs, even without considering which of the two had the license plate LEDs.

Have fun.

Yes, that one is described as SeaSense, brand (I couldn't actually read the box in the photo, but that's what's stated). Depending on your trailer, particularly the shape of the metal mount around the taillights, you should be able to use either the square one that's illustrated, or else another variety of SeaSense product. On my two trailers, one needed the square one, but the other required a (horizontal) rectangular version. But they're both available from this company, and they're both very good (and were praised in the sister publications, PowerBoat Reports and Practical Sailor, which rigorously test products and do not have ads, kinds of like Consumers Reports for boaters -- if you want to know more about them, let me know).

In either the square or rectangular lights, the current is minimal. Just be sure that you've got a good ground for each light (corrosion being a common problem in boat trailers -- do you use it in salt water, or fresh?). I took the precaution of forgoing reliance on the trailer frame for the ground, and added an additional wire, on both trailers' lighting wiring harness (included with the lights) to provide a dedicated ground path back to the connector to the car's harness. One of my boat/trailers is used only in fresh water (a sailboat) and the other in usually salt water (it's too big for all local lakes except Hopatcong), but I installed both of them the same.

Safe boating, and driving.

thanks, Ken. it's a small old Highlander boat trailer and it'll only be used for the kid's sunfish (in saltwater). i'm not going for the thing on ebay, just wanted to get a quick picture of it. after getting a good idea what i need (circular or rectangular) i think i'll head over the west marine - might be a bit more money, but they are pretty good about returns and any missing parts. good tip about the ground wire, thanks. sorry i let my Practical Sailor subscriptin lapse (happend about the same time my Pearson 26' fell off the dolly and went into semi-retirement!).
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oceanre 91 240 wagon 260k

re: "...my Pearson 26' fell off the dolly and went into semi-retirement!..."

Ouch, I am so sorry to hear that -- makes me shudder to imagine that!

FYI, I don't think that WestMarine/BoatUS is carrying SeaSense brand anymore. The catalog indicates that they're carrying some other brand ("MultiPoint"?) that appears to be a 'knock off' of SeaSense. Practical Sailer tested -- actually abused -- the original SeaSense lights, even dragging them for miles as they bounced on and off the pavement to see what they can take, and they passed with flying colors; as well as the more usual testing. I couldn't say how this other brand will hold up.

The power antenna connector for the 1988 244 (my newest) is a 2-wire, one gets hot when the radio is turned on, the other is hot all the time.

Hot all the time is green, hot with radio is black.

Later years of the 245 had power antenna. Mounted high on the "D" pillar, so I guess the motor stuff is in the area to the rear of the spare tire but in that compartment. Look about in that area for a 2-wire insulated connector hanging about hooked to nothing.

The wire gauge is not very heavy. You you may be better off running a 14 ga. up to the front for power to your hitch module.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

In my 1983 wiring diagrams the power antenna page shows a sedan and no wagon. The book is very precise in showing the wagon wiring layouts for things like brake and tail lights, so I'd guess the wagons had no power antenna option.

My diagrams show a constant 12V Green wire goes back there to operate the rear dome light. It is routed along the left side door sills into the cargo area, then up the left rear (D) pillar to the light.

It's a light gauge wire and may not be adequate for brake, tail, and licence lights, all of which can be on at once. It's a pain to run a separate wire (properly fused), but may save a hassle in the long run. Better to have that hassle in your driveway at a time of your choosing rather than out on the road at night.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F/M46, dtr's 83-244DL B23F/M46, 94-944 B230FD; grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)