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Shin Bone Connected to Thigh Bone...[900/95] posted by Steve Ringlee on
Thursday, 31 May 2001, at 9:33 a.m.
Man, do I need an oxy torch!! Typical tale:
I decided over the weekend to change the ball joints and front bushings in my 90 745, a decision brought forth by the goat track quality of our roads here in Iowa. Remove wheels, pull control arms, press in new bushings at local shop, change ball joints, change sway bar bushings: not too hard. Much grunting due to stuck bolts, but I thank my stars I have a 24 inch breaker bar.
Then I discover two problems: a weeping power steering pressure hose (easy change once I get the part) and cut boots on both tie rod ends. OK, time to change the rod ends. One comes off in no time. The other has obviously been heated before, but I have at it. IT WILL NOT COME OFF THE INNER TIE ROD. No amount of PBlaster, heating with a propane torch, banging and knocking, will remove either the lock nut or the tie rod end. Somebody clearly heated it before during an alignment, then locked it up with no anti-seize. And it has certainly seized. Bitch!
So I am now going over to NAPA to get a new inner tie rod, the better to just chuck it all out and start from scratch with new, rust-free parts. Question: has anyone removed the inner rod from a CamGear (TRW) rack without removing the rack from the car? It looks easy: pull back the boot, unscrew the holding nut, and pull the inner rod ball joint out. But the entire job looked easy until I burrowed into it. Thoughts?
Re: Shin Bone Connected to Thigh Bone...[900/95] posted by BC, formerly General Bradley on
Thursday, 31 May 2001, at 10:41 a.m.
Steve -
'Way back in my pile of printed Posts is the one about how to get a stuck plug out of the differential housing. I found it. It was authored by Larry/metro.det post #20134134. It uses candle wax to loosen the threads. Hope it helps with your situation.
This is a direct quote:
"Use a propane torch if you have one, and heat the drain plug until the wax melts. Let the drain plug cool, reheat, and apply the candle a second time, use the wrench or your choice. It is my experience that the aforementioned aerosol products (P B Blaster, WD 40, LPS 3, LIQUID WRENCH) will flash and disappear when they encounter extreme heat, but the melted wax will follow the threads, male and female. You may have to repeat the procedure. I rarely have enough time and patience in my toolbox, but numerous half candles or paraffin blocks. This is an old blacksmith procedure..... "
"Works great on exhaust manifold bolts, and other stubborn broken stud-type bolts when yu have to drill and easy-out the remains from cast iron or aluminum when you are dealing with dsssimilar metal electrolysis."
Steve, I have no idea if this will help on the problem you have. I hope so.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)