Just did both on an '86.

Key to it is to pry up the inner side of the rubber gasket up and over the pinchweld (body seam).

Accomplished in slow, painstaking movements using a 1" stiff putty knife, assisted with a large screw driver to retain wht you jsut lifted with the putty knife.

Work it all along the bottom, then up arounf each lower corner at least 1/4 the way up the sides.

Occasionally pry a little farther out, especcially near the sides and gradually the old adheasive will begin to yield.

I managed to work a lower corner loos, then hand push the bottoms out from there.

Some recommended having a helper stand outside to catch the glass. If you can loosen a corner and that side you can easily control it until you can get outside and grasp the bottom edge to pull it off.

Cleaning up the rusted pinchwelds can become a discouraging task. Especially if the flange is rotted away. how to rebuild that spot?

I dunno. Tried Bondo, but that breaks off upon reinstallation. It is O.K. for nearby spots, just not at the replacement for the vertical pinchweld.

Installation involves wrapping a thin nylon cord in the groove of the gasket. Slip the upper side edge of the assembly over the top linchweld, then pull the inner side of the rubber gasket inside the car, over the pinchweld, by pulling both ends of the rope, working all the way around.

Lay a thick bead of urethane windowweld (that's 3m's name) in the gasket groove first. Yes it will get messy, so, lay down some masking paper (Home Depot)

My installation had failed. I had to go back and force the tip of a tube of urethane glue back under the gasket to apply more sealant. It leakes at both lower rear corners.

Frustration level: 4 out of 5 --
Zee. Easton, PA
The Eastwood Company