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AC compressor belt adjustment[200/1979] posted by charles on
Monday, 12 March 2001, at 6:38 a.m.
My 242 has no adjustment for the AC belt. It is the wildest thing. there is no idle pulley and no way to lossen the compressor to get the belt off so i can replace the alternator belts. The only thing I can see to do is to completely unbolt the commpressor. Have you guys ever seen such as this in a volvo? Is there a secret I dont know about this?
Re: AC compressor belt adjustment[200/1979] posted by Jason Kneier on
Monday, 12 March 2001, at 7:50 a.m.
I weep for you...
No, seriously, it's not quite that bad.
The crank pulley actually comes apart - two halves, front & back. These are held together by the 6(?) small bolts surrounding the center crank bolt. In between (and probably on the front of the front half), you'll find some thin shims. These are used to adjust the tension on the AC belt. The more shims in between the halves, the wider the gap, and hence, the farther down in the pulley the belt will go, slackening the tension (essentially decreasing the pulley diameter.) Less shims, and the the belt will ride higher on the pulley (increasing the diameter), increasing tension.
It's a pain, and if you're installing a new belt, you often have to retension it after the initial stretch. It's just one of those Volvo quirks...
--Speed Racer '83 240 R, '74 164 E, '93 940 OL1, '64 544 Sport (Smithfield, NC)
Re: AC compressor belt adjustment[200/1979] posted by BC on
Monday, 12 March 2001, at 2:08 p.m.
Charles, the Pre-B230 engines used that method. I did that job so many times on my '77, '79, '81, '83, and '84 that my back hurts just thinking about it. Here are some of the things I learned that might help you.
1) It is a BIG PITA, so put in all the belts, alternator, P/S, A/C and timing while you are in there. Keep any good belts for spares. Look for oil leaks on the front of the engine indicating a leaky camshaft or intermediate shaft or front main seal. This is a good time to replace them, too.
2) There are six either bolts or studs holding the pulley halves. The nuts are a softer material and round off VERY easily. I learned that using a 3/8 inch drive with a 5/16-inch socket hammered on to the rounded nut will get it off. You will need a new nut.
3) The Volvo service manual (#TP 11408, 200.10.79) recommends starting a new AC belt with five of the six spacers inside the pulley. The belt wil stretch and will need one or two moved to the outside of the pulley in a few 1000 miles. The AC belt should deflect 1/4 to 5/16 inches.
4) When tightening the pulley, take a lot of time. Use a breaker bar to turn the crank. Tighten the bolts 1 or 2 at a time on the loose side, turn the crank, and do it again. Repeat until they are all fairly tignt. I use a 10mm socket on a 1/2-inch drive with very low torque even when finished.
This is a good DIY job. I recommend that you read over at least the Haynes manual if you don't have the Volvo service manual. The Bentley begins with the 1983 B230F engine and hasn't much details.
Good Luck, Bob
Re: AC compressor belt adjustment[200/1979] posted by L K Tucker on
Monday, 12 March 2001, at 9:28 p.m.
/// The other posts are correct but use this method...
There should be four bolts and two studs. The studs must be across from each other. Position the studs at nine and three o'lock. Install the belt, washers and outer pully half. Put on both nuts loosely. Tighten the nut at three o'clock. Turn the crank shaft to swap the studs and tignten the stud that has moved from nine to three o'lock. If the belt is too tight or loose remove the nuts and outer pully half and swap washers in or out. Repeat the process. When correct tension is achieved put in the four bolts. Verify the tork on the nuts and bolts as a final check.
--Larry KC4IAI in Buhl gateway to the University of Alabama