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fiberglassing over the rust...[200/78] posted by Gordon Hull on
Monday, 16 July 2001, at 5:57 p.m.
I have a 78 242 that has the two spare wheel pits in the trunk almost totaly eaten away, and there was a slit along the driver's side floorpan in the rear seat area, about 28 - 30 inches long.
I went to a local fiberglass manufacturer who does retail sales (way cheaper than going to a jobber or retail hardware shop) and bought a gallon of resin, plus the catalyst, and 1 yard of matting, and asked the fellow filling up the resin can (he had fiberglass stuck all over his shoes) how to use the stuff.
First I practiced on some small repairs inside the trunk and the passenger compartment - under the rear seat - there were two holes where the rear sub-frame met the passenger compartment, just ahead of the rear axle.
Then I patched some rusty seams at the front of the trunk compartment, as well as a small perforation just above the left rear lamp cluster.
I was told to grind away the paint and apply the resin to bare steel.
Also - the battery tray was corroded to cheese, and I rebuilt that with a few strips of matting and some left over resin (always have a bit of matting and a "plan B" ready in case you mix too much resin - no waste)
I used what was left of the tire pits for a form, laid some wax paper down, duct taped over the big gaps from the outside, then I went to town and laid the resin and matting in the pits.
Now I have a dust free trunk and passenger compartment.
Areas that need greater strength are built up in two or three layers.
I usually keep the job to one area at a time, mix about 6 ounces of resin with about 12 - 15 drops of catalyst.
I use throwaway plastic yogurt containers and popsicle sticks (thereby necessitating adding these two food groups to your diet)
Make your own brushes from foam and popsicle sticks. Or buy cheap rollers at a $1.00 store and a cheap roller handle (2" wide) cut off 2" of roller at a time as you need.
Wear latex or non-latex gloves (way cheaper then trying to clean your hands later.)
If you are in a garage or closed shop, VENTILATE!! (Who needs a DUI on the way home?)
Country music on the radio helps!! :)
Wear eye protection if there is a chance of a drip or a splash to the face - this stuff irritates the skin. (like fiberglassing the floorpan from underneath)
You can work with this in any position.
We live on a gravel road, and most of the driving is on dusty gravel. I used to run the fan with all the windows up, just to pressurize the interior and keep the dust out. Try that on a 78f degree summer day - HOT!!
The fiberglass has been easy and fun to learn - I have modified my canoe, a repair project on my catamaran sailboat is next.
Anyone had any experiences or warnings I should know about??
If anyone has any questions or wants to try this - I'll be glad to help out on questions.
For $50 CDN ($33 US) I have done a lot of repair and have a better volvo.
Re: fiberglassing over the rust...[200/78] posted by Les Lyne on
Monday, 16 July 2001, at 8:16 p.m.
Gordon -
Sounds like you've had a pretty successful encounter with fiberglass. Congratulations! Your safety tips are very good.
When I first started doing body work, I patched many cars with fiberglass... some lasted a long time, but unfortunately most didn't.
Examples: I had a 1969 Fiat 124 Spider that I patched rocker panels and rear fender lips; it lasted 4 1/2 years. I had a 1956 Porsche 356 that I virtually rebuilt the floor pan with 'glass; it lasted 3+ years (maybe longer; car was sold at that point). But I must confess that I've also had some patch jobs where the 'glass started lifting away from the metal within 3 months of application. That's not fun.
Mostly, I believe the successes were due to the preparation. Sucessful body work ALWAYS begins with proper prep. As I was reading your post, I was very relieved to hear that you attached the 'glass to bare metal - resin doesn't adhere to paint very well.
If you intend to paint over your patches with automotive paint (particularly in the trunk), be sure and coat the finished 'glass with a good automotive primer... don't use Rustoleum for primer under auto paint.
However in the area of the floor patch, Rustoleum is fine - but be aware that you'll have best results when you top coat with some kind of Rustoleum finish paint (that is, inside the car). Under the floor patch (outside the car), primer w/Rustoleum, then cover the area liberally with some spray undercoating. It's very messy; be sure to mask everything within a four-mile radius that you don't want the stuff to get on (like the entire rest of the garage!). Well, that's a bit of an exaggeration, but the stuff does stay wet and airborne for a long time. Also - when applying the undercoating - spray from different angles so you get it into all the nooks and crannies.
If you don't like Rustoleum, POR-15 makes a series of products that will considerablly help slow down the rust. I don't have any hard scientific data to back this up, but POR-15 is probably better than Rustoleum. However, unlike patching with fiberglass, my success record with Rustoleum is nearly 100%.
I certainly wish you the best. Hope it lasts a goodly long time.
--Les Lyne
Re: fiberglassing over the rust...[200/78] posted by Jack W. on
Monday, 16 July 2001, at 10:17 p.m.
Gordon,
I am in the process of rebuilding the rocker panels on my 86 240.
I like to pop rivet fresh metal in spots where there is rust through and then put a couple of layers of fiberglass over it for strength. I find bodywork to be tedious but rewarding upon completion. The Volvo however seems to outlast the bodywork. I am on round 2 for this car. I didn't use fiberglass last time and I did kind of a quick job not figuring the car to last more than another couple of years...I was wrong...I'm going wild on this round of bodywork hoping to make it at least to 300,000 miles. For me that is about another 4 New England Winters!!! My bodywork should be complete by middle of August, Then I have to concentrate on building a new House...God, I sure hope this car lasts through that process!!!
Gotta go,
Jack W.
Jack W. 86 240 DL. (My brick is trusty) but getting rusty...217,000mi.
Re: fiberglassing over the rust...[200/78] posted by Les Lyne on
Tuesday, 17 July 2001, at 12:33 a.m.
If you really want your car to last, don't patch with 'glass, weld in new metal.
--Les Lyne
Re: fiberglassing over the rust...[200/78] posted by L K Tucker on
Monday, 16 July 2001, at 11:20 p.m.
/// I would like to add that small fill jobs in the fiberglass can be done with the solid two part epoxy. Knead until mixed then stuff it into the hole.
The reason to use this is that as it hardens you can use Lacquer thinner on a cloth to shape the epoxy without other tools. No mold is required to form shapes, edges. It adds a fine finishing touch, again, without molds.