BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
Re: AW70 Tailshaft freeplay[200/85] posted by Don Foster on
Saturday, 28 April 2001, at 6:44 a.m.
Julio --
"...tailshaft moves inside the housing by about 1/16" of an inch each way..."
Sounds worn. I've done several of my cars for that problem.
"...the probable cause of this free play and what would be the probable parts that would need replacement..."
The free play is from a worn tailshaft housing bushing. Usually the first clue is a "drumming" or high speed vibration when you're at highway speed. The second clue is a puddle of ATF where you park.
Some folks have suggested that a worn U-joint or unbalanced drive shaft can accelerate the wear of this bushing.
"...probable parts that would need replacement..."
New bushing, seal, and tailshaft housing gasket. Cost about $15 or $20 for the "kit," and often seen on eBay starting in that range. Search on Volvo bushing.
"...replacing the tailshaft bushing and oil seal, is a special tool necessary?"
Not necessarily, although a special tool IS available and apparently makes the job much easier.
"Is there a bearing that is easily replaced?"
Yes and no. Yes, there is a bearing. No, it's not an easy replacement -- but it's not rocket science, either. The long method takes 3-4 hours on a Saturday morning.
The pictures below show the tailshaft housing from my '83 (identical to your '85). I was illustrating for someone the orientation of the oil hole relative to the groove in the housing (this groove permits you to cut the old bearing for removal).
Once the tailshaft housing is off the tranny, the old bushing can be easily removed by cutting through it (into the clearance groove) using a hacksaw blade. Then the bushing is "peeled" inward and pulled out.
The new bushing can be carefully driven into place using a bushing driver or a big socket as a mandrel. Don't forget to thoroughly wash out all the chips 'n crud. Then install a new seal, seating it about 1/32" to 1/16" deeper than the original (so the lip sees a new surface). Lube the seal lip and bushing before installation.
Removing the old gasket is a bitch. If the original's in good shape, clean it and use a light coating of red RTV.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)