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Re: i've 'searched' and can't find my answer...help???[200/'88] posted by L K Tucker on
Thursday, 12 April 2001, at 3:30 a.m.

/// BTW it is not possible to test the balljoints without unloading the joint. Support the car at a frame lift point. Compress the front spring. Shake the tire top to bottom. There may be slight movement but the inner cone (ball) should not rattle in the cup.

Tie rod ends are checked by compressing with tie rod end pliers or other BIG pliers. There should be minimal up/down movement.

Both bearings must be removed and cleaned for inspection. Pull the pads, unbolt the caliper. Lift and hang the caliper without crimping the metal brake lines. Remove the rotor and hub. They should be separated so oil and solvent doesn't get on the rotor surface.

After cleaning, blowing dry, and inspecting the bearings must be repacked with grease. I favor a bearing packer but that requires a grease gun, tube of wheel bearing grease for the gun and the packer. Other wise you can pack by hand. Be sure grease is forced under and behind the cage until it surrounds the rollers in the cage, finally squirting out of the cage at the narrow end.

The Volvo front seal fits with the feather edge toward the bearings, the cone shaped end toward the engine.

Repost if you need information on removing the bearing race from the hub or on what a bad bearing looks like. You can inspect the race after cleaning it while it is still in the hub. --
Larry KC4IAI in Buhl gateway to the University of Alabama


Re: i've 'searched' and can't find my answer...help???[200/'88] posted by roger on
Thursday, 12 April 2001, at 8:14 a.m.

i've changed bearings years ago (on american made) and if memory serves me correctly, i removed the race with a big screwdriver and hammer then replaced the new one with a deep socket that fits to the edge of the race and hammered it in. is there any difference in doing this on a volvo?? also, i've come across many different mothods/ways to get the bearings seated and then 'tightened' (for anyone else reading this, notice the quotations around the word tightened )?? you had mentioned something about the front seal. i think i know what your speaking about but, could you elaborate a bit more?

thanks for the help.....


Re: i've 'searched' and can't find my answer...help???[200/'88] posted by L K Tucker on
Thursday, 12 April 2001, at 1:09 p.m.

/// The changing, removing and replacing of the bearings, races, and the cleaning and packing of the bearings is the same on Volvo. If those bearings you cleaned and packed on American cars didn't burn up later, you got it right.

The Volvo grease seal is in two parts. There is a retaining ring that goes in the hub to hold the inner bearing. It goes in like the seal would on American cars. The seal is rubber. It has two very different mouldings. On one side is a thin feather washer like surface. On the other is a thicker ring that has a cone or beveled edge. The feathered edge faces the bearing and the cone, or bevel faces the engine. It just slips on the spindle first before you mount the hub. The feathered edge rides against the bearing and prevents grease being slung out. Look at a new one.

The hub should be filled with grease so bearing lubricating grease has no where to go toward the inside of the hub. If the hub is not filled then the critical lubricating grease inside the bearing can be slung out to the inside of the hub where it serves no purpose.

Roller bearings shoud be snug but not tight. With practice this can be done with or without the wheel and tire mounted. The wheel/hub should turn freely. Check the brake pads before you remount the tire. If there is drag push a pad back to free the hub. Tighten the nut until there is resistance to turning the hub. This tells you the wheel, hub and bearing is properly mounted and seated. Relax the torque and let the nut reverse until the next castle slot matches the spindle hole. The hub should spin with no resistance. There should be no grinding or noise from the bearings. You should not be able to shake the wheel at the bearing. There should be litle movement in and out of the hub. If there is movement you should suspect that you missed wear on the race or cone. Excessive wear provides clearance for movement. --
Larry KC4IAI in Buhl gateway to the University of Alabama




 


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