BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
is rust under the side rear wagon windows costly to repair?[200/85] posted by will on
Tuesday, 23 May 2000, at 8:56 a.m.
dear brick,
my wife's 85 240 wagon's body is in great shape until you get to the side rear windows. looking in to the inside of the car, rust has eatin out the metal around the area that the black bar in the middle of those windows enters. i am also positive that under the window seal it is nasty as well. i have no clue how rust could have come inside the car like this. i also wonder about those black and chrome trim pieces that ran along the bottom of the 84-85 240's. does water just sit up under them. they fall apart and look crapy on those cars now. i had a friend who said he discarded them when he replaced the window seals in his wagon and used the tape or whatever the later models used. my wife loves her car and would love to keep it for many more years. should we try and at some time repair the rust or would the cost at a shop be more than the car is worth. thanks again brick for all the help.
will
--will
It Can Be Done!![200/85] posted by Fred Cowell on
Tuesday, 23 May 2000, at 11:06 a.m.
Will,
It can be fixed! My total cost, not counting my labor, was ~ $100. I just did the repair under the driver's side, cargo compartment rear window trim in my '84 245. As best I can tell only '83 to '85 have that wierd trim piece under the windows. I had rust-through showing at the rear lower corner and on the inside just rear of the seat belt bar.
Here's how.
1) The rear window itself will have to be removed; it sits over/into the trim piece helping hold the trim in place. I couldn't get it out myself, but convinced an auto glass place to remove and install for only $30 total. The rubber may have to be cut. I had to buy a good used one for $50.
2) The trim piece is held in by four aluminum rivets, easily drilled out from the top once the window is out.
3) Once the trim was lifted, I could see the full extent of the rust. I was agast! It had silver dollar sized rust surrounding each of the rivet points and rust eating away at the "rubber rail". The rubber rail is half inch lip of raised sheet metal that fits into the lower slot of the window rubber. It's formed where the inner and outer sheets meet as they're bent upward 90 degrees. Moisture had invaded this slot and partially eaten about 2 inches.
4) Order the POR 15 Starter Kit!!! You may need some of their fiber mesh mat if you have any holes. I have 90 % of my mesh left over if you need some.
5) Carefully read and follow Paul Seminaria's article on rust repair. Thanks to Paul, I believed it was possible. THANKS PAUL!!!
Hopefully any rust damage and repair will be covered up by the trim piece once it's reinstalled (the auto glass shop pop riveted back inplace as they did the re-install). Most of my repair was covered up, but I was doing a complete rust repair/dent removal/paint job on Da Tootsie Roll, so I wasn't overly concerned about the cosmetics of the trim repair itself.
E-mail me offline if I can help further.
Fred Cowell
"Da Tootsie Roll", '84 245DL, B23F, M46, 167402 miles, fantastic new paint job.