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Fan Rad switch and add[700/91] posted by Mark on
Tuesday, 13 June 2000, at 10:37 p.m.
I currently am running the plastic rad w/pusher fan and fanclutch setup.I am switching to a Nissens Rad and an electric puller fan.I will use the electric GM puller as the primary and remove the fanclutch setup.Should I remove the pusher? I heard they are of little value.Can two fans, in this case a puller and a pusher be run at the same time from a common thermo switch?
Question two: Is there a flexfan for Volvos besides the rigid fan clutch setup that is sold by the company that owns the flexfan trademark.BEWARE flexfans are being sold that don't flex!They use the term loosely. Of the fans they offer that do flex Volvo isn't one of them.What they offer is no different than a stock setup.I am looking for a fan that will cool mechanically at low RPM/wind resistance and then flex flat offering little resistance to the motor.
Mark
--Mark / politicalswat@aol.com
Re: Fan Rad switch and add[700/91] posted by John O on
Wednesday, 14 June 2000, at 7:29 a.m.
Yes, you can run both electric fans off that radiator T-stat if you want, but you might need to alter the voltage supply going to that switch for your main electric cooling fan (puller type, engine side of radiator) to be sure it always has 12 volts with the ignition on. It's been years since I did mine, but on the older cars it's only used to supply current for the pusher fan (in front of your AC condensor) with the AC on only (engine temp around 190F degrees).
You still need the AC condensor (pusher) fan functioning with your AC on (radiator at normal-high temps) to keep your AC cool in slow traffic or stopped idling. Without it, your AC temps inside your car will heat up when stopped in traffic.
Re: Fan Rad switch and add[700/91] posted by Matt Warner on
Wednesday, 14 June 2000, at 9:09 a.m.
To prolong the life of the thermal switch run the primary fan off of a
relay (bosch 40/30A type)if you chose go with this set up. I would go with the factory thermal clutch as opposed to a flex fan. Flex fans of all makes have a nasty habit of eventually cracking, breaking off, and doing neat stuff like exiting through the hood or other parts of your car
including any wiring, radiators,belts etc...that's in the way. A propperly functioning thermal fan clutch only engages when the bi-metalic (or coil) spring heats up from the air pasing through your radiator and activates it.
weather at idle or higher rpm's once the spring is cooled off the fan clutch deactivates and coasts until heated up again. You'll find that there is no real advantage to the flex fan. As far as the pusher fan goes it's crucial that it is working, as the pressure in the A/C system can
climb to high (around 350 to 400 psi.)and blow off at the pressure relief valve, dumping freon and nescessitating a recharge. costly if you haven't
converted to r134a yet.
Matt Warner