Thanks for the ideas and the information, Bob, Lawrence and Brian -

Here is the new clue: When I turn the key on, a number of relays switch on, but the fuel pump does not. I am used to fuel pumps turning on for a second or two, and then stopping. THis seems to charge the system. Making matters worse, it is hard to tell qhich relay controls the fuel pump. In this car (760) the relays are mounted sideways facing the passenger's foot wlell. And the layout is different from the 740. I have relays marked A + E (warning lights and Continuous Injection System) COMBINED, B, C, F, G, K, L, M and a small silver one market J. There is a second unmarked one in the same size and shape, but it does not have the classic Fuel Pump Relay connections. FOr example, it has an 87a, but not an 87/2.

However, banging everything in sight on this panel and under the hood (two large black relays near the power sttering fluid reservior) makes no differents. The pump does not come on in advance of turning the engine over. It does come on when cranking, however.

Here are some answers to the suggestions posed.

RE: Sounds like an injector stuck open or the cold start valve stuck.Does the car loose fuel pressure when you stop cranking?

This car does not have a cold start valve; instead cold starting is managed through the Engine Coolant Sensor. However, an injector stuck open is a possibility. Unfortunately, I never made a fitting for a pressure gauge (That changes as soon as the stores open!) so I can't tell for certain.

RE: Air Mass Meter. Tried disconnecting it, it made no difference.

RE: What about the hall switch(see where the timing mark is)*
*The only symptom my bad hall effect switch gave me was severly retarded timing(15-20% AFTD) The party was over and everyone had gone home by the time the spark arrived.

This now looks like a good candidate. The only problem is, Haynes and the insructions in the FAQ are a little ambiguous about testing, with their references to different "connectors". Suggestions on how to check this would be very welcome.

RE: Engine control temp sensor (closest to firewall, under intake) and not the temp sender for the gauge.

This is the one that I replaced, and then pulled, tested for resistance at different temperatures, and also checked continuity to ground for both wires. Note that the Knock sensor had a connection to ground for only one of the two leads. I can't tell from the wiring diagram if this is the way it is supposed to work or not.

4. Slow down, gather info, stay away from the parts replacement method. Unless you're rich. Test and confirm

You mean, put the dynamite away? OK :-)

5. Also, make sure your timing belt hasnt jumped. Gas kicking back into the throttle body sounds,to me, like the intake valve could be open on the compression stroke.

Good idea - the belt is new (10K miles) but worth a look anyway.

Thanks all!

Bill