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fuel filter - diesel[700/86] posted by Peter on
Wednesday, 13 December 2000, at 12:39 a.m.
Please advice how to change fuel filter in my 740 diesel ( VV 2.4 liter 6 - piston engine ) and what to buy as replacement - I'm facing this problem for the first time in my life, as I'm fresher in VOLVO- diesel.
Thanks in advance
Peter.
Peter
Re: fuel filter - diesel[700/86] posted by Gutzy on
Wednesday, 13 December 2000, at 7:29 a.m.
Fuel filter is located just below the injection pump on my 85 740GLE. It's a spin-on filter similiar to an oil filter. Fuel is sucked through the filter by the transfer pump built into the injection pump. A trick that I found was to drive the rear wheels up onto a set of ramps to raise the fuel tank higher than the filter to assist in filling the new fuel filter with diesel fuel. There is also a small bleeder screw on the top of the filter housing that can be opened to assist in bleeding air out of the filter, besure to close the bleeder screw prior to cranking the engine or you will suck air into the injection pump that could cause even bigger problems in starting the car.
You can get the fuel filter at a Volvo dealer or major parts supplier (may have to order it) Fram P8043 is just one of the aftermarket fuel filters available.
Good luck!
Gutzy 85 740GLE TurboDiesel
Re: fuel filter - diesel[700/86] posted by Jim Baron on
Wednesday, 13 December 2000, at 8:54 a.m.
Certain VW experts (Volkswagen built these motors for Volvo), including factory service trainers, recommend filling the new fuel filter with _non-synthetic_ ATF rather than fuel oil before installing it. They claim that the ATF is a superb detergent injector cleaner, the motor will start and run quite well on it, and the fuel incoming from the tank quickly dilutes the ATF so that the car is completely driveable by the time it's beginning to warm up. But beware of some synthetic special ATFs for Chrysler products, etc: they can be hard on the injection pump because of their viscosity.
Re: fuel filter - diesel[700/86] posted by Jim Bowers on
Wednesday, 13 December 2000, at 9:36 a.m.
Before you start, collect enough filtered fuel in a clean container to fill the new filter. You can do this by opening the fuel return line and then run the engine long enough to get the required fuel.
Fill the filter as full as you can to reduce the amount of air the injection pump must pass through when you start up.
It is important to realize that the injection pump sucks fuel all the way from the tank and any air leak will let the pump suck air instead of fuel.
The air bleed screw on the housing top is normally used only to drain water from the bottom of the filter. The filter should have a drain cock on the bottom that allows for this.
On my car, I installed one of those heavy duty class cylinder gas filters in the return line in the filter area. This allowed for diagnostic checks. If you see an abnormal amount of air bubbles you have a leak or the injector pump shaft seal is dying. I once saw a few metal flakes indicating the pump was due for a rebuild.
Those pumps were designed for fuel when it had a lot of sulfur in it. With the EPA mandated low sulfur fuels it is important to use an additive in the fuel to make up for the lost lubrication provided by the sulfur.
I hope you enjoy the car. I really liked mine, too bad it got real rusty here in the salt belt.
--Jim Bowers, North of Boston, '96 965 with 75K, Had '85 745 Turbo diesel for 200K