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Leaky right rear bearing.[120-130/67.5] posted by mario m on
Monday, 27 September 1999, at 2:49 p.m.
I finally rented a puller (7 bucks) for the day and took off my drums to see what was going inside. On the left side the inards were dry as a bone, the tapered axle end had a thin layer of rust on it. Everything on that side looked really dry, but strangely coroded (I beleive it is all just thin surface rust). Well on the other side, it was a different story, everything was wet with grease coming out of my bearing seal.
So I know that I have to take that drum off again to get in there and fix the problem. I just want to do it all corectly in one go without having to stop because I am missing a needed part, so I have some questions:
1) How can I determine if I need to replace the bearing (is it genearally a good idea to replace a bearing when replacing the seal?)
2) Is there a cheaper source for bearings than Volvo?
3) What parts should I get to do a great thurough job?
Re: Leaky right rear bearing.[120-130/67.5] posted by Jim McDonald on
Monday, 27 September 1999, at 5:02 p.m.
The bearing needs replacement if any of the surfaces are pitted or darkened. It's very rare for bearings in a 122 to go bad, though. Your local bearing supply will have a better price than Volvo, but availability may be a problem.
The seal inboard of the bearing isn't actually a bearing seal, but an axle seal; it separates the differential oil from the bearing grease. What you're seeing is probably differential oil. There's a felt grease seal inside the bearing retainer[it rubs on the hub inside the drum] which stops bearing grease from getting into the brakes, but won't stop oil for more than a second.
I'd say you'll need both the axle seals and the felt ring grease seals; do both sides while you have the puller.
Pulling the bearing may be more of a chore than advertised; I had to build a special puller to change seals in my 444,544,and 445[none of which had bad bearings].
Steffanson
Re: Leaky right rear bearing.[120-130/67.5] posted by mario m on
Monday, 27 September 1999, at 5:43 p.m.
Do you have to pull the bearing to change the axle seals? If so, what is the best way to pull the bearings(I am sure my manual will tell me to use some special SVO tool)? Any other tips for making this fix last a long time?
Re: Leaky right rear bearing.[120-130/67.5] posted by Jim McDonald on
Tuesday, 28 September 1999, at 10:22 a.m.
Yes, you have to pull the bearing. You should repack it with grease, anyway.
The official way to pull the bearing is with a slidehammer, but I've never had any luck. On the other hand, George says he's never had a problem, so with you can hope for the best.
Re: Leaky right rear bearing.[120-130/67.5] posted by George Downs on
Monday, 27 September 1999, at 5:57 p.m.
A little addendum to Jim's excellent post:
If you go to a really BIG bearing place that
sells automotive bearings you can probably find
both seals but you should take them with you when
you go looking, or at least get any and all numbers
off them written down.
I've not had too much trouble getting the axles out
of a 122 but it is a bit messy. Getting the bearing
off will be a bigger problem. You gotta get it pressed
one way or another, along with a retaining ring which
is also pressed onto the axle. Many parts stores have
a press and will do this for you at a reasonable price,
especially if you buy bearings from them. Of course if
you don't have to change bearings, which is likely, you have
just passed GO-->. You may or may not collect $200.
There are shims under the brake plate that adjust end
play, which should be 0.002 - 0.006" (2 to 6 thou),
which is about the smallest clearance you can feel,
about the size of an average human hair. With all the shims
in you will probably have more due to bearing wear.
Take out the thinnest one and put it together and see if
there is any clearance or if it is harder to turn.
If it is harder to turn, put it back in and forget it.
If you still have noticeable clearance, take shims out
until it almost disappears. Be sure everything is good and
clean when you put it together. A little dirt or grit
really adds to shim thickness. Also avoid bending them
if at all possible. Makes 'em a lot harder to stack
tightly and you will end up with a loose joint down
the line.
The reason you have to have a little clearance is that
the axle may be a little hotter than the housing and
thus will expand more. On the other hand, the less clearance
you have, the better the rollers are in contact with the
races so the load is spread over a larger area.
If you don't have enough shims, the negative clearance
can increase the load substantially and send your brg
to an early grave.
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma