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Re: Radius Rod (Strut Rod) Bushings[700/1986] posted by JohnB on
Monday, 6 September 1999, at 6:06 p.m.
The bolt that holds the sway bar link to the control rod is longer than the radius rod bushing bolt...I once used it to compress the bushing and then backed out the longer bolt and used the stock bolt.
But the stock bolt should be just long enough to get started if you make sure and get all the old rusted crap out from the strut hole before you put the new cone bushings in.
My 87 and 90 760 and 740T did not have to have front end alignment after replacing the cone bushings.
Re: Radius Rod (Strut Rod) Bushings[700/1986] posted by Peter Cohen on
Monday, 6 September 1999, at 10:04 p.m.
Thanks, John. That's a good tip.
I now have both strut rods and both control arms out for bushing replacement. I am now absolutely convinced that removing these items affects wheel alignment. (Unless you replace the cone bushings without loosening the bolt at the back of the strut rod, or are absolutely certain that you have repositioned the rear bolt in exactly the same position.)
Both the hole for the inner control arm bolt and the rear strut rod bolt are slotted. This would allow the lower control arm to move in & out, which would affect camber, and the strut rod to move fore and aft, which would affect caster (and probably toe in). I can't see how it wouldn't. I'm amazed that the manuals don't mention anything about this (Chilton manuals, anyway.)
Re: Radius Rod (Strut Rod) Bushings[700/1986] posted by Steve Seekins on
Thursday, 9 September 1999, at 9:19 a.m.
Neither the rear radius rod mount holes nor the control arm inner pivot holes should be slotted. If they are, it is likely an indication that either they were loose at one point and the holes became elongated due to excessive wear from the bolts beating back and forth, or someone in an attempt to make caster and camber adjustable modified the holes. In any case, this is certainly NOT the way to do it, and I would see what I could do to return the mount holes to original condition. Otherwise, I suspect that it will be difficult to properly locate and securely fasten the mount points. They will likely loosen up with shock, cornering, and braking loads resulting in loose and noisy front suspension.
Caster is adjustable on these cars by getting radius rods of different lengths as needed. Camber is not adjustable from the factory, but there is a Volvo TSB that says to elongate the forward upper strut mount hole if camber is out of specification. Then you can adjust camber similar to the 240 series.
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Steve Seekins, Tech Editor, Rolling Magazine