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Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Robert S. Davis on
Tuesday, 26 October 1999, at 5:53 p.m.
My turbo started to screech so I pulled the turbo and took it apart. There is no aparent damage to the turbines. What else in the turbo could have been screeching? I know it was coming from the turbo, but would go away in about 15-20 seconds. Any opinions? On one note my exahust housing was cracked real bad and my exhaust manifold was cracked real bad also.
Robert
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by waldi on
Wednesday, 27 October 1999, at 12:15 p.m.
How did bearings look in the turbo unit? They are most likely to go first.
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Robert S. Davis on
Wednesday, 27 October 1999, at 6:23 p.m.
I couldnt get the turbo completely apart. Once I saw the cracked housing I just decided I will get a new one. I have a quote of $565.00 for a remanufactured turbo. Are they any good? Is that a good price?
Robert
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Paul Seminara on
Thursday, 28 October 1999, at 8:36 a.m.
Ah the typical cracked housing. Is your exhaust manifold cracked?
Sounds about right, maybe you can shop around and find one for a bit less.
That's what I have in my 245Ti coming up on two years and it works great. One advantange over just the cartridge is the reman unit comes balanced.
--Paul "Diamond BIT" Seminara
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Robert S. Davis on
Thursday, 28 October 1999, at 10:01 a.m.
Yes the exhaust manifold had a severe crack in it. about 7 inches long all the way through. I am currently shopping around for a new(used) one. Could that have caused my turbo failure?
Robert
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Paul Seminara on
Thursday, 28 October 1999, at 9:52 p.m.
I could have caused your turbo to crack, with a crack that large!! Smaller cracks don't always lead to instant turbo death...
--Paul Seminara <= diamond bits for sale =
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Robert S. Davis on
Friday, 29 October 1999, at 8:20 a.m.
Paul,
What's the deal on the drill bits. I have an exhaust manifiold bolt to drill out, will they do the trick for me?
Robert
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Paul Seminara on
Friday, 29 October 1999, at 9:09 a.m.
They aren't twist drill bits, they are 1/8" and 1/4" shank burr/grinder bits with heads of various sizes and shapes. They will definitely help you out in a broken bolt bind. If you haven't started on the bolt yet you may get lucky and not have to use a diamond bit. Use a left hand cobalt twist drill bit, and a locking collar type stud remover. The benifit with a diamond bit here is you can use it to make a precision starter hole. If you use an "easyout" and it breaks in the hole, your only choice short of head removal is a diamond bit to grind the broken piece out.
Post your plan of attack.....
--Paul "Diamond BIT" Seminara
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Robert S. Davis on
Friday, 29 October 1999, at 10:02 a.m.
I dont have a plan of attack yet. I have never done an extraction brefore. Could you further explain your last message ie. " Use a left hand cobalt twist drill bit, and a locking collar type stud remover". One other question, My very last exhaust stud was a repair that stripped out, It looks like it has been drilled to 10mm, what can I do? The threads are somewhat there, should I try and retap it? I plan on removing all of the studs retapping and replacing with high quality studs and copper nuts. Also since we are on the subject what is the best way to mount my new turbo to my manifold? I have heard that the volvo safety clips are no longer availible. What should I use?
Robert
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Paul Seminara on
Friday, 29 October 1999, at 10:21 a.m.
"Could you further explain your last message ie. " Use a left hand cobalt twist drill bit, and a locking collar type stud remover"."
As to the bits, they are available at well stock hardware places, "screw" shops, speciality tool joints. Same for the cool stud removers. You may need a right angle drill. Set the drill on "R" and start drilling. With "loose" studs this alone may cause it to back out. If not, "drill" into your hole with the stud remover crank the collar nut down and use a wrench to back the stud out.
"One other question, My very last exhaust stud was a repair that stripped out, It looks like it has been drilled to 10mm, what can I do? The threads are somewhat there, should I try and retap it?"
Give retapping a shot. The studs originally are 8mm, but a 10mm will work and be stronger. If the 10mm is hosed up, I know there are "step down" studs in SAE sizes (dunno if metric sizes are available). These have a larger "butt" thread than the exposed thread. I think people have gone 12 mm but you'll need to open the manifold holes up.......
"I plan on removing all of the studs retapping and replacing with high quality studs and copper nuts."
Copper nuts? Hmmm unique idea....please tell ME more.
"Also since we are on the subject what is the best way to mount my new turbo to my manifold? I have heard that the volvo safety clips are no longer availible. What should I use?"
Where did you hear you can't buy the locking plates? I hadn't heard this.
--
Paul "Diamond BIT" Seminara
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Robert S. Davis on
Friday, 29 October 1999, at 10:46 a.m.
As for the copper nuts I got the suggestion from someone here, they gave me a web address for a place in Iowa and they have what I need, they are supposed to resist rust and seizure very well. As for the locking plates I read it somewhere in the archives. If they are available then that is the way I will go. Have you ever used the alumi coat from IPD, I would like to coat my "new" pieces to help them last longer and look nicer.
Robert
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Paul Seminara on
Friday, 29 October 1999, at 11:09 a.m.
I'd love the site for the nut place, maybe I could find copper metric nuts around here....
"Alumi coat"? Are you talking the POR heat resistant coating? Buy it direct from POR(Restomotive labs). BUTT a huge warning, this stuff is different from POR-15. Your parts must be super sand blasted, super clean and don't spill any oil on them prior to initial heat up on the car. Ask me how I know this............
--Paul "Diamond BIT" Seminara
Re: Turbo questions?[200/1984] posted by Paul Seminara on
Wednesday, 27 October 1999, at 2:16 p.m.
Screeches that "sound" metallic (as in NASTY turbo) sometimes are small air leaks under pressure.....
But that said, you may indeed have metal to metal contact in bearing areas prior to actual turbine contact.
--Paul "Diamond BIT" Seminara