BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
Emergency brake adjustment[120-130/1966] posted by Laurence on
Sunday, 13 June 1999, at 9:21 p.m.
I just bought a '66 122s, in great condition excpet for the emergency brakes. I jacked the car up, spun the wheels and stomped on the pedal so I know the rear brakes work. Also all the linkages between the e-brake handle and drum are in decent condition.
I suspect the pads just need adjusting. SO HOW DO I DO IT? I looked all around for a hole to stick a screwdriver through and adjust the starwheel, no luck. All I can find is a little bolt near the bottom of the backing plate that looks suspicious but awfully small.
I also need a manual but have had zero success locally. What do you recomend as the best working manual for the Amazon? I'm used to the Bentley manuals for VW so would like something similar.
TIA
Laurence
Laurence
Re: Emergency brake adjustment[120-130/1966] posted by Brian Killins on
Sunday, 13 June 1999, at 10:15 p.m.
Laurence,
That small square head at the bottom is the adjuster. It is almost certainly seized up, unless someone adjusted the brakes often. To get it working again you'll have to remove the drum with a puller, and then the adjuster. It may require heat, or some rust remover/cleaner to get it working again.
Brian
--Brian Killins
Re: Emergency brake adjustment[120-130/1966] posted by Laurence on
Monday, 14 June 1999, at 8:09 a.m.
hmmm,
If that's the adjuster, I did manage to turn it a bit. It was stiff though so I didn't want to break anything before I knew what I was doing.
Which way do I turn?
I wouldn't mind pulling the drum, but don't have the special puller. Do I really need it or can I bet by with the standard one I have?
Re: Emergency brake adjustment[120-130/1966] posted by Ed Preston on
Monday, 14 June 1999, at 12:46 p.m.
I am not an expert on pulling drums on 120s, but I have heard that attempts to do so using standard pullers almost always result in damage. I've heard of unorthodox methods occasionally employed, but I don't recall the details, and would never recommend trying them. They usually involve things like rolling the car with the brake drum unfastened or some other such scary notion. Some people just have a 'gift' for things like that, the rest of us should go by the book!
*However* I believe George Downs fabricated his own workable 122 brake puller. I would consider that an 'alternative' method rather than an unorthodox one.
As for me, my mechanics have the right kind of puller, which they say they will lend me when I need it.
--Ed
Re: Emergency brake adjustment[120-130/1966] posted by Toby B on
Monday, 14 June 1999, at 5:51 p.m.
Yep, that's the adjuster.
It should feel 'lumpy,' turning 1/4 turn hard, getting easier, turning harder. But what often happens is that the plugs that actually move the shoes get rusted up, so the post turns, but it can't move the shoes. THis is probably the case if you can unscrew the post, but can't get it to screw in any further than it was... Lube it, and work it back and forth, and if the PO used lots of grease, you might get lucky. Don't mangle the post- they're hard to find, for cheap...
"in" tightens the brakes, "out" loosens them.
But if they're out of adjustment by much, the pedal will travel a LOT before you get brakes. If you do get them to tighten, tighten 'em until the pads scruff the drums, them back off a turn or so. TThere's a separate adjuster under the tunnel to adjust the e-brake. But don't mess with this one until you get the rear shoes adjusted just right! It doesn't usually need attention.
The problem with standard pullers is that they tend to pull on the drum, not the much-stronger hub. You need a metric buttload of tug to get the rusted tapered hubs off the rusted tapered axles, and the drum can't always handle that. A good hub-attaching puller is best.
Can you tell I've been here before?
Toby
Re: Emergency brake adjustment[120-130/1966] posted by Matt B on
Wednesday, 16 June 1999, at 5:41 a.m.
WAIT!!!!STOP!!!Don't pull the hub yet.
The first thing you want to do is try to adjust the brakes. The little adjuster mechanism is pretty simple, and although you might have to pull the hub to clean it, you should work it a bit first.
Find a fairly long allen wrench first (a big one...quarter inch or better). Then find a socket that fits the hex of the allen wrench as though it were a bolt. You will need a socket for a 1/4 inch ratchet drive. The square hole where you might normally stick a ratchet drive fits perfectly over that sqaure adjuster. Put it all together....now you've got some leverage. Work it back and forth....all the way in, all the way out. spray as much Rust-be-gone on, in and around it as you can. If you are lucky, You will free them up, and just adjust the brakes normally.
If you tried to use an open ended 1/4 inch wrench, thats your first problem. I tried that with mine and started to...well...lets just say that its a good way to get a square peg to fit in a round hole (or ruin a good wrench).
Couple quick points: You can't take the square adjuster all the way out. Don't try. You can break it (I've never seen this). Don't force it too much. Rust-be-gone (among real products) can lube up your brakes real good...should burn off, but be prepared.
Also....You're pads might just be worn out...do you see any threads on that square headed bolt? If not, its probably adjusted all the way in, and your shoes are gone....pull the hubs. If, after pulling the hubs, you decide to take off the adjusters to clean them, you might think again...Its not unlikely that you will break off one (or both) of the studs that holds the adjuster to the back plate. Don't try to bolt it back on with just one stud...it won't work. Don't even try to take them off unless you really have to, and even then, you might want to have an extra just in case. You break a stud and you are &^$#ed. Fix them on the car if possible.
I hope this helps, and I'm sorry to ramble, but I've been there a few too many times, and turned many a 15 minute project into several days....
Matt B... Volvo's brakes work fine...still need some help on the Jag's