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Drop oil pan / not pull engine???[1800/69] posted by angelo on
Thursday, 3 June 1999, at 9:20 a.m.
Is it possible? There is A LOT of crap in the old oil I drained form our "new" car. I would like to take care of the leaking gasket and get the sludge out while the motor still runs. Can it be done without pulling or jacking up the engine? If not, is there a "get the sludge out by magic" way? I'm not prepared for good news on this one.
Thanks.
ps. the haynes is in the mail...
Angelo '90 240/ '98 S70/ "wife's" '69 1800/needs a lot
Re: Drop oil pan / not pull engine???[1800/69] posted by Matt B on
Thursday, 3 June 1999, at 11:37 a.m.
No.
It can be done, but you have to raise the engine and lower the whole front crossmember. I wouldn't bother unless you REALLY need in there...bad bearing or something. I'd just buy a can of sludge-be-gone and drive the thing. Get a bag of cat litter for the leak.
-Matt B 65 1800s, 71 142e (still not dead), and a leaky Jaguar
Re: Drop oil pan / not pull engine???[1800/69] posted by Dan B on
Thursday, 3 June 1999, at 12:41 p.m.
Unless your engine is broke-I wouldnt fix it! Sludge in my opinion doesnt count-as long as you have good pressure. You can tighten most of the oil pan bolts without moving anything(not too tight though)-odds are your leaks are not to do with the oil pan-probably your rear and front seals leak. Oil pressure sending unit is also a likely candidate (if your car has an oil pressure dummy light-cant remember about '69)-the little sensor that the wire plugs into is very prone to leaking. Of course-the valve cover gasket probably leaks a bit as well! Thats why old volvos last so long-they change their own oil! If the motor is not too bad-Id fix all the other stuff first!
--Dan B - 1962 P-1800-changes its own oil! - - 61 Jag MK-2-1 fire/400 miles
Re: Drop oil pan / not pull engine???[1800/69] posted by George Downs on
Thursday, 3 June 1999, at 1:33 p.m.
I agree with the other guys. I suspect that the sludge is
due to a combination of cold cycles and long/no oil
change intervals.You can buy "Engine Flush" and add
a quart to your oil, run it for about 5 minutes before draining
the oil and changing and it may get a lot more loose.
Then put the best/highest detergent oil you can get in.
Change it again after it gets dark. (The reason it gets dark
is that it cleans the engine and keeps the dirt suspended.)
If you have slime on the outside, get a can or two of gunk
and go to the nearest do-it-yourself carwash. Spray the engine
down with the gunk, concentrating on the slimiest places,
then wash with their strongest detergent and follow with
the water rinse. You might want to put a bag over your
distributor to facilitate starting.
"I just washed my engine and can't do a THING with it!"
After you clean the engine you can find out where the oil
is coming from. Around the fuel pump, left front (if you
have one there) is also a problem area.
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Re: Drop oil pan / not pull engine???[1800/69] posted by Don Foster on
Thursday, 3 June 1999, at 1:33 p.m.
Angelo --
In addition to Matt's and Dan's good advice, I'd suggest you change the oil early several times, and be sure to dump the oil immediately (like within 1-2 minutes) after a long, hot run (like 35-50 miles on the highway).
This way all the gunk is still suspended (hasn't settled back into the pan) and the hot oil will be thinner, so will flow out more quickly and thoroughly. Also, let it drain for several hours or even overnight, if possible.