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Strut Replacement questions[200/1989] posted by Bill Power on
Tuesday, 1 June 1999, at 8:05 p.m.
Is there a safe method for replacing the stuts and or shocks on an 89 240DL wagon (B230). My concern is for all of the warnings associated with strut replacement and the dangers with assembly and disassembly of the existing parts. Can they be purchased in a configuration where they are pre-assembled and ready to bolt in? Is this more of a job than I should tackle? Engines and transmissions present no problem for me, but suspension is a totally new ball game. I have basically the same question about motor mounts for this car. I am told they need to be replaced, so should I attempt this as a one day project? (The car is a daily driver)
and I am proud to say, just passed the California smog test with 154k miles on an all original engine :) Not even close to a question about not passing.
Re: Strut Replacement questions[200/1989] posted by Keith Hendrickson on
Tuesday, 1 June 1999, at 11:05 p.m.
Bill---I would recommend attempting the motor mount project first and then see if you're ready to do the struts. The motor mounts should be able to be done in one day. I put struts in my 240 this winter---and it took me a whole weekend (I'm a slow learner.) Two things to know---or three---you don't need to take the ball joint loose; do remember to disconnect the sway-bar first; and put the spring compressors on before trying to get the assembly tipped out from the fender. One more thing---I found it helps to take loose the bracket holding the brake lines to the frame. Be careful you don't pull too hard on the lines, though. Have Fun!!
--1987 245DL // 1984 245GL // 1971 164
Re: Strut Replacement questions[200/1989] posted by Skip on
Wednesday, 2 June 1999, at 9:39 a.m.
I agree, the mounts should be first. If they are shot, that's more critical than struts. I found, the hard way, that you should unbolt the lower bracket from the cross member, not the mount from the bracket. The only trick is to remember that Volvo built the mounts at an angle so the engine goes under the passenger compartment in a head-on.
Struts are not hard. However, buy/borrow/rent a GOOD spring compressor. The threaded rods with hooks at both ends are widowmakers IMHO. After years of borrowing one from a really friendly mechanic, I bought a Snap On version. It looks like a set of allegator jaws. Very easy to use and very safe. Air tools also help to loosen(not remove)the big nut at the top unless you have the proper Volvo tool. I prefer to tilt the strut out from under the fender before attaching the spring compressor. That requires you to disconnect the ball joint at the end of the steering arm.
Good luck! It's a skill that all Volvo home mechanics should learn.
Skip
'80 DL
'80 GT Pro Rally
'93 850
Re: Strut Replacement questions[200/1989] posted by Mike Prisbylla on
Friday, 4 June 1999, at 12:10 p.m.
I have mixed results with the seperate rod-type compressors. Look for well machined threads on the rod, quality steel for the hooks, and some kind of safety catch that holds onto the spting coil.
I learned a little about the violence that springs on a 240 Turbo can do. Using an air chisel to remove a really reluctant top nut on the strut tube of Bill Bradley's brandy-ney to him turbo wagon.
I was planning to do the spring seats with the Volvo rustout kit, but the vibrations from the chisel saved me the hassle of actually cutting the old seat off.
BWAMMO! Counting twenty fingers between us, and letting the adrenaline rush clear, I took a couple of lessons from the experience.
Air tools are wonderful, but the vibrations can loosen marginal parts with sudden force. I have air tools but always use hand tools to compress and decompress the springs if there is a question of the integrity of any of the other bits.
It wasn't really frightening at the time, as it happened too fast, but I also know that neither my finger, hand or arm would have stood a chance. I was just lucky.
Mike Prisbylla
Re: Strut Replacement questions[200/1989] posted by Paul Seminara on
Wednesday, 2 June 1999, at 10:03 a.m.
Changing struts is not difficult and there are more dangerous things in life. Follow a good manual. Bentley is fine. Air tools really make the job although I have done without. Maybe I misread one of the other posts, but you MUST disconnect steering end link joint (really easy - one nut and a hinged ball joint tool), to get the assembly to swing out from under the well.
There are some other tricks.....one common mistake: Don't loosen the top big nut too much. It make it hard to swing the assembly out..the studs on the strut bearing hit the edges of the wheel well.
Be carefull and yes Mr. Haire is correct - I've had a lot of practice!!!
(Actually I think struts are easier on a Turbo car than motor mounts!!)
--Paul Seminara
Re: Strut Replacement questions[200/1989] posted by Chris on
Thursday, 3 June 1999, at 4:03 p.m.
Bill
One additional suggestion re. changing strut inserts - especially for a first-timer.
The dangerous/scary part of this job is the huge amount of energy stored in a compressed spring. If suddenly released (ie slips out of a compressor) a loose spring can do a lot of damage to anything that gets in its way - including you! A good spring compressor is a necessity.
My additional suggestion is a safety trick I have used many times - especially when access limited the type of spring compressor used. Use 3 pieces of HEAVY chain as a backup to your spring compressor. Space the chains evenly around the spring; constrain as many coils as possible. If a/the spring compressor slips, the energy released and damages done will be limited by the chains.
Also, don't stand over the spring and wear safety goggles.
I hope I haven't scared you. This job is very do-able provided you follow basic safety procedures
Good Luck Chris.
--Chris