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Transmission Seal Replacement.[200/84] posted by Tony Grimwood on
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 6:24 p.m.
A friend of mine has an 84 240 gl with auto transmission and a leaking rear seal.Has anyone replaced this before,can you fill us in on what is involved and if there are any does and don'ts when doing the job.Is there a bearing in the tail shaft or is it a bushing.If it is a bushing what is involved in removing it for replacement.Is the bushing prone to wear (if it is a bushing).Would anyone have the size of the rear seal or better yet have the numbers off the seal so we can possibly cross reference it.
Re: Transmission Seal Replacement.[200/84] posted by Paul Seminara on
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 6:36 p.m.
I don't have a lot of details as to dimensions, or seal numbers, but here's a few tips:
1) It's a bushing not a bearing. Replace the bushing, when you do the rear seal.
2) Indeed the bushing will wear and sometimes the wear will be from small bits that wear the tailshaft flange as well. This is especially so on high milers. This usually will require replacement as well.
Good luck.
--Paul S. (no loud clunks, no whines, now unfrozen!!!)
Re: Transmission Seal Replacement.[200/84] posted by Don Foster on
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 7:08 p.m.
Tony --
Recently, I've done that job on my '83 GL and my '86 GL. In both cases, it included a bushing replacement. Each car had around 175-200k at the time. I estimate the job takes about 2-3 hours and is only a modest challenge.
Sorry, I don't have the part numbers. The parts you'll need are:
- New bushing;
- new seal;
- new gasket.
In general, the procedure is:
- Jack up the car -- from the rear may be preferable.
- Drop the driveshaft at the tranny -- I don't think it needs to be removed any further, only pulled aside.
- Remove the companion flange -- I used an air gun (with the tranny in park). Some purists among us will probably tell me how wrong that is -- but both cars logged at least 50k flawless miles since. And the '86 is my favorite daily driver.
- Drop the crossmember -- you might want to support the tranny.
- Remove the speedo cable.
- Position a pan under the rear of the tranny -- some fluid might decide to get in your face.
- I think you need to remove the tranny mount bracket from the housing to gain access to the housing bolts.
- Unbolt the housing from the tranny. Pull back gently -- a little tapping may be helpful.
- Knock the old seal out of the housing.
- Note the orientation of the old bushing as a reference for installing the new bushing.
- Examine the inside of the housing -- note there is a 1/4" gap, or opening, under the bushing, at the bottom of the housing.
- Using a hacksaw blade, cut through the old bushing into this opening.
- "Peel" the old bushing out.
- Scrape off any gasket material.
- Wash the housing, insuring that all chips are removed.
- Position and orient the new bushing -- and using either a proper bushing/seal driver OR a socket of the correct diameter (perhaps with a 6" extension on it), drive the new bushing into position. I've found it slides into position easily, with only slight tapping from a hammer.
- Examine the new bushing to confirm the edge was not dented -- if so, clean it up slightly with a fine rat-tail file (and rewash). Be careful to not damage the main bearing surface of the bushing.
- Drive the new seal into position. I like to use a touch of Permatex aircraft gasket sealer, but it's not necessary.
- Clean any remaining gasket from the mating transmission surface.
- Install the new gasket. Again, I like to use a touch of gasket sealer, but it's not required.
- Lubricate the bushing and seal with ATF.
- Position, install, and tighten the housing.
- Wash the rear flange, lubricate the bearing and seal surface, and slide it over the splined tailshaft.
- Install and tighten the nut. I'm sure there is a proper procedure and torque -- I hit it with the impact gun.
- Install the speedo cable.
- Lift the tranny and install the mount bracket and crossmember. This might be a good time to install a new mount.
- Connect the driveshaft.
Don't forget to check the transmission fluid level, particularly if you lost some during this work.
--
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 7:49 p.m.
> leaking rear seal.Has anyone replaced this before,can you fill us in on >what is involved and if there are any does and don'ts when doing the
> job
Tony,
The only thing that I might be able to add to Don's and Paul's post is in reference to the gasket betwen the transmission case and the rear housing you will be removing. I've replaced two bushings and both times the most time consuming part of the job is removing the gasket from the transmission case. There isn't a lot of room to work your way around with the various tools to scrape the gasket off. I found a single edge razor blade worked best for me, and the second time I did it I was armed with a spray on gasket remover which helped a whole lot. Spray it on, let it soak, scrape a little.... repeat numerous times, being careful not to dig into the soft aluminum case when you become frustrated and begin to use that sharp wood chisel that always worked so well on removing gaskets from cast iron casings. Also it would probably be in your best interest to take extra pains to protect the exposed portion of the transmission from consuming the gasket pieces and various bits of underbody debris you will rub off with your arm- I wrapped mine in a clean rag (the rear of the transmission, not my arm)
Randy