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Bushings[200/1978] posted by David L on
Monday, 4 January 1999, at 5:52 p.m.
Will be installing Bilsteins this Saturday and figured that since I will need an alignment afterwards I may as well replace the almost dead bushings in the front end...from the IPD catalog, there seems to be three main bushings: Control Arm Stay Inner, Control Arm Stay Outer and Control Arm. From the picture they included in the catalog (and since I haven't checked the bushings up front) I can't tell which of them need a press to install.
Any information would be invaluable (heck all information on this site in invaluable!)
Also for front strut installation, what is the hardest part of the job? I am assuming it's getting the struts compressed.
Thanks,
Dave
1992 745T - 106k miles still going strong but bouncing the whole way!
Re: Bushings[200/1978] posted by John on
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 1:30 p.m.
control arm bushing.
the outer and inner stays come off easily.
try a pair of sockets and a big vise...if you can get 5 inches of travel or so a vise can work.
IF you're in the US, Costco sells big vises for about $40.
Alternatively, most shops will pop in the bushings for about $20 each or less outside the DC/VA/MD metro area.
Re: Bushings[200/1978] posted by Bernard on
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 1:31 p.m.
Dave:
Reading your post makes me believe the best advice I can give you is stay away from that job. Spend $180.00 for a pro to do the job and you won't go through emotional trouble and despair. I am serious!
First, the struts are a "killer" job for someone unexperienced. If you are suicidal, please shoot yourself (read my earlier response on that), but don't rent strut compressors and hope that you will still have a face afterward.
Secondly, you will have to find out what parts you'll be needing. How do you think we can tell you that? Put your car on a hoist and check it out, or buy everything! And, without me going to deep into the subject, the control arms are sometimes serviceable, sometimes not. If not, you will have to spend $106.00 each at the dealer. Now, if you ask me how to tell whether they are serviceable or not, please look at my initial response. Brakes and suspension are nothing to experiment with. Learn to do it with the help of an experienced person, then after you have done that several times, you can do it yourself without asking how to do it.
I don't mean to be disrespectful, but your post shows me that you can't do this on your own.
And one more thing. You will need new dust boots for the struts, and also you will have to check the upper strut mounts before you order. Nothing uglier than having a car on the hoist and parts have to be ordered by mail.
--Bernard
Re: Bushings[200/1978] posted by Steve Seekins on
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 2:00 p.m.
Likely the only bushings that you need to worry about are the 4 cone shaped bushings where the radius rod connects to the outer end of the control arm. easiest to remove the bolt at the rear of the radius rod after removing the front bolt. Remove the entire radius rod. Clean out the old bushings - may take a cup brush in a drill if badly rusted into the control arm. Be sure to get the new firmer (and longer lasting) bushes (available at the dealer). Re-install is reverse - but leave bolts loose until suspension is fully loaded and settled (bounce car and wiggle steering back and forth). then reach under and tighten without jacking the car.
At the same time, I recommend that you replace the upper strut bearings (bearing is separate from the mount), and consider installing the lower chassis brace (2 minutes - one nut and three bolts - one stud and three threaded holes already in frame) that spans the frame rails at the radius rod mount pads. Volvo part - get the hardened bolts and nut from them also.
--Steve Seekins
Tuesday, 5 January 1999, at 2:05 p.m.
For front strut job - see the Rolling article on this in the Jan/Feb 97 Rolling - pretty much covers step-by-step.
--Steve Seekins
Wednesday, 6 January 1999, at 6:18 a.m.
Hello, guys,
While considering that I have both my cars to do this Spring and it will cost me about $20 a bushing to have them pressed and fitted, I took an interest in the two hydraulic presses in the Northern Tool catalog (The smaller of the two cost just $110). With what, fourteen or so bushings on the 240 and a couple handfuls on the Oldsmobile, it certainly looks cheaper for me to just buy the press, even though I'll probably not need it again, versus paying somebody.
I have done control arm bushings before and u-joints, rear shocks, front shocks (Olds), so I am not unfamiliar with what is under the cars. I also will be using the Bentley's manual and will scour the brickboard archives before proceeding.
But I need information and advise about the press and its operation. Would I need anything special in terms of jigs, drifts, for example? Could I also use this press when doing the accessories bushings, or is that overkill?
Note to Bernard: If my ignorance and inexperience shows, it is entirely intentional.... I'll learn what I need to know between now and when I do the job....but, if I find I don't know what I'm doing, I just don't get into it.
--Zee. '86 240DL, 144K, Michelin XM&S Alpins / '84 Olds Custom Cruiser, 143K
Re: Bushings: Should I buy a press?[200/1978] posted by Don Foster on
Wednesday, 6 January 1999, at 7:55 a.m.
Zee --
A small press (and even more, a big press) would be a terrific addition to any shop. Only you can decide if it's the best place to spend your hard-earned dollars.
But I must agree with you, it's wonderful to justify a new tool based on an upcoming job. ("But honey, I can't check the air in your tires unless I have this new 60 gallon compressor and all new air tools!")
However, Northern Hydraulics does not always have the best price. In fact, often Home Depot has the same (or better) products cheaper. And for very infrequent use you might consider a really cheap one from JC Witless -- the forces needed for U-joints and bushings should not tax the strength of even those cheap imports. (But these would not be recommended for continuous or heavy duty applications.)
There are some bushing installations where you obviously can't use a press -- something into the engine block, for example, or special jobs. Perhaps the trailing arm bushings are best done in-place with the Volvo tool (or equivalent). Sometimes a big hammer or a big vise does a fine job (but also, sometimes does damage).
There are several "universal" mandrels or supports worth buying -- but for 95% of the work, you can use a socket as a mandrel (and if you have a complete socket set, you have a gazillion diameters).
Ignorance? Hardly -- it's never ignorant to ask a good question -- a good question is smart. The ignorance shows elsewhere when someone attempts to embarrass you with your question. Don't worry about it.