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clutch and suspension[700/88] posted by TOM on
Friday, 26 February 1999, at 12:05 p.m.
Our 88 740 Turbo Wagon is in need of a new clutch. Any sugestions as to other work to do while doing the clutch? Rear oil seal? Shifter bushing? Is it a given that the fly wheel should be re-surfaced?
Also wondering if its worthwhile to put in new front suspensions bushings. The car has 140,000 miles on it. Will this make it feel new? There is some creaking when turning the wheel back in forth. Would this be solved by bushings or bearings in the shock towers?
Re: clutch and suspension[700/88] posted by Tom Frisardi on
Friday, 26 February 1999, at 12:16 p.m.
Definitely change the rear engine seal. Only reface the flywheel if there's a problem. Usually there is, especially in the form of hairline cracks. Sometimes refacing won't cure this. A fresh flywheel face feels better, to me at least. Other things that I've had trouble with in the drivetrains of my 740's that you might want to look out for have been the center support bearing, the rear transmission mount and the flexible coupling on the output flange of the transmission.
Re: clutch and suspension[700/88] posted by Dick on
Friday, 26 February 1999, at 12:37 p.m.
By all means replace the rear seal. Also pilot, throwout and you may as well go for the clutch kit which includes a new pressure plate. To have a super smooth engagement you could have the flywheel resurfaced also.
Re front end: That is your choice esp if you are getting too many shakes, rattles and groans you may go for the new bushings. The 700 series, at least mine seem easy on bushings except those two little doughnut jobs on each side. They are mountded on a short approx 18 inch strut in a horizontal position.
dick
Re: clutch and suspension[700/88] posted by Gary DiFrancesco on
Friday, 26 February 1999, at 12:50 p.m.
While replacing the rear oil seal, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing, also look at the clutch fork. It is not unusual for the pivot point on the clutch fork to wear. When my '87 745T had a new clutch put in, the pivot point was worn so bad, you could see holes in the metal. If not replaced, the pivot point would have eventually failed and the clutch would have been useless. Also look at the pivot bolted to the bell housing. This rubs against the clutch fork pivot point and can get deformed. It should be smooth and round on top. If there is wear, replace it. It is easily removed with a socket (19mm I think), and the bell housing does not need to be removed to do it. When putting the clutch fork in, put some grease on the pivot point. FYI, the clutch fork is about $45 at the dealer.
Good luck
--Gary DiFracnesco