BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
Re: Idle Control Valve testing[700/1986] posted by abe crombie on
Friday, 19 February 1999, at 11:08 p.m.
On the left inner fender is a two wire plug with a red/white or red/black wire and a green/white wire. The red/white or red/black wire is the idle test point wire. With eng warmed up and a/c off, out of gear you ground this lead and the idle valve will go to its minimum opening signal. At this point you set the idle speed to 725 rpm with the black plastic hans screw below throttle. Remove grounded lead from the test lead and the idle should go back to its target of 750 rpm. If the idle speed is lower than 725 and can't be raised ny turning screw then the throttle housing and the port into which screw fits is dirty and needs to be cleaned. If the idle only drops after you smack idle valve with the handle of a screwdriver once lead is grounded and then is sluggish to go back up to 750 or overshoots and goes to a higher rpm or is irregular in RPM once lead is no longer grounded then the idle valve has worn out commutator on armature of motor and must be replaced.