BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
cheap good fix:hi-low beam switch[120-130/67] posted by Bill Nesbitt on
Thursday, 30 December 1999, at 11:51 a.m.
This is probably old hat to everyone here, but i've taken so much i feel the need to give some back! After trying unsuccessfully to find a good used switch, or new Volvo replacement for my badly corroded hi-low beam switch, i got an aftermarket Chrysler unit at Canadian Tire. (Cost me $8.89 in Canadian Tire Money) I used a round file to open up the mounting holes a bit, as they were wider apart than on the original. I crimped female connectors to the ends of the wires, since the new unit has blade type terminals. I joined the red wires on one terminal with an adaptor. Red wires went to the inside terminal, yellow to the centre, and grey to the outside. I used heat shrink tubing to seal the connections. Only took a few minutes and works fine. Given the condition of all the switches I saw at the wreckers, this seems to be a common problem.
--Bill Nesbitt 67 123GT & 68 122s wagon
Re: cheap good fix:hi-low beam switch[120-130/67] posted by George Downs on
Friday, 31 December 1999, at 9:11 a.m.
I did that a couple times then got my hands on a
headlight relay for a later model. The switch
is already on the turn indicator and the wires
will reach the relay location on the left fender
well. Get rid of that foot switch, it is like a
friend of mine, always in some kinda trouble!
A VW headlight relay will also work. That also gives
you the ability to blink your headlights when they
are turned off (approaching a one-lane bridge, etc).
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma