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More Alternator Q's[740-760/86] posted by Rudolf on
Thursday, 21 May 1998, at 8:19 a.m.
Alternator on a 740T / B230 eng. Is getting weaker, slowly but surely.
I would appreciate opinions as to the choices available to me.
Do I rebuild it (new bearings, brushes, diodes), replace it with the same
model (Bosch), or with one of the less expensive domestic models assuming
they make one that would physically fit into current environment.
Thanks in advance, and happy motoring to all.
Re: More Alternator Q's[740-760/86] posted by Gary DiFrancesco on
Thursday, 21 May 1998, at 9:55 a.m.
I had the alternators on my 240s ('79 and '82) go on me. I was facing what could be a several hundred $ part for each car. Often the failure of an alternator is the result of a blown diode or a worn out bearing, etc. These parts are not expensive and their replacement is not difficult with the right tools. ($300+ alternator replacement cost for a burned out $10.00 part, what a scam!) With a little looking, I found a shop in my area that repaired the alternators (new bearings, brushes, leads, what ever else was needed) for about $50. All I had to do was get the alternator out of the car and bring it to them. This may be a way to go for you car.
--Gary DiFrancesco
Re: More Alternator Q's[740-760/86] posted by Randy on
Thursday, 21 May 1998, at 3:59 p.m.
>Alternator on a 740T / B230 eng. Is getting weaker, slowly but surely.
Could be all it needs is a set of brushes. Remove the regulator/brush set from the back. Drill out the brush wire with a 1/16" bit where it is soldered to the brush holder. Brushes are available from Volvo for less than $4.00 (probably part number 1362710 for your car- they can check). Solder in the new brushes and replace the regulator/brush assembly.
Re: More Alternator Q's[740-760/86] posted by Philip Bradley on
Thursday, 21 May 1998, at 5:36 p.m.
I just went through the alternator issue with my 242T unit. I had replaced the 55 amp unit years ago with a Bosch 70 amp unit. This lasted for around eight years, but was slowly losing power. I removed the internal regulator and inspected the brushes. They were nowhere near their wear limit, but just to be sure, I swapped in another internal regulator with slightly longer brushes. No improvement. I removed the alternator and took it to an auto electric shop (advertised in yellow pages under that description). I suspected that the slip rings were worn and that the brushes were not contacting the slip rings very well. The shop said the slip rings were fine, but checked the alternator out and found that the rectifier was nearly gone. It was an $85 part. The guy put new bearings in and redid the slip rings for that price, as well.
At the same time, I converted to an external regulator. I used a brush holder from an earlier alternator that did not have the internal regulator. Any good alternator shop should have these. They cost about $10. We used an AC Delco external regulator. They cost about $25. You have to bend the alternator contact tab that used to contact the internal regulator so that it will no longer contact the brush holder. The shop will also be able to inform you how to wire the new external regulator to the new brush holder. The shop tested the rebuilt alternator with the internal regulator and the external one. With the internal unit, it put out 75 amps. With the external unit, it put out 90 amps. Not a bad improvement for $35. The difference is explained by the fact that the internal regulators are 1.5 amp units and the external ones are 2 amp units. Ambulances and police cars often use 6 and 8 amp units.
My alternator shop would be happy to sell you a brush holder, an AC Delco external regulator, a harness stub for the regulator, and wiring instructions. Call Port City Tech, Inc., at 1-603-431-1213. Ask for Russ. You can use my name as a reference if you wish.
--Philip Bradley